johnbu

no....and yes. EAA stopped importing small frame steel guns a long time ago. But.... IFG is in the process of importing some, starting with the excellent limited Pro. Look for a thread on it.

@Apolo, is the discount code "polodna" still good at redhill?

Every single one I've personally worked on has had loose screws. I eyeball them centered, tighten them down with a slathering of locktite blue 242. That's the bad.... the good is that when properly prepped and locktited in, they stay tight.

I went with the Henning fixed sights on the Match. Much better.

Pins, sear cage first. Then sear / safety. Obviously, let inspection guide you.

38s is a great caliber. But the shooters all have the same post match mantra.... "17 cents, 17 cents, 17 cents" and they all say it every time they pick up one !

At 50 yards the ammo will have a HUGE impact on group size. You'll have to do the same stuff a precision rifle shooter would do. Determine the best bullet diameter, material, profile, weight, velocity and pressure profile. and since the variables are all inter-related ... expect it to take a while! But to realize the mechanical accuracy, you will need to get a real good rest to ensure the gun is pointing in the same place each time.

It sounds like the gun is a small frame. I'm assuming your replacement parts are all for a small frame? Obviously, I can't see it, so just wondering..

Stock 1 is the right tool for production and CO now that it's "on the list".

And this is why we need an importer that comprehends the PURPOSE of gun models and bring in quantities in correct calibers.

Lol, i hand loaded SHORT b4 getting a barrel ream. 1.060. Never a bobbl

Buy K40 mags, henning basepads, grams kits (he improved them since 2009). Cycle a few full mags to get them to set. You might need to chamfer the edges of the extensions to ensure smooth motion. but that's it. Load, shoot, repeat. The old mags should be relegated to DF only duty (or crushed lol).

Interestingly, a person on facebook tanfo group posted about a gun having hammer follow because of a too strong FPB spring. He reported using an AR detent spring after losing the the correct spring. Not a slam on the individual, he did what felt right to replace a lost spring. But, this is a place where the right spring is important! Link to FB topic. https://m.facebook.com/groups/5169359229?view=permalink&id=10155725981659230

You don't want to be "that guy" that gets to the match 30 minutes after installing a gaggle of new parts only to have malfunction after malfunction all day long? Where's the adventure in that? LOL

Call Joe at Patriot Defense in Kemah.

It would go all the way forward. The frame has a goodly number of rounds. 35-40k. it's not raw round count as much as the imbalance between springs. (Imho)

Ok, so I was working on a new cut slide on a CO gun today and found a couple issues. First was the gun not going fully into battery. The barrel and slide lugs were starting to wear on the edges. Ideally, the barrel and slide will slide into lockup with smooth perfection. This one was stopping 1/8" short when cycled very slowly and had some resistance. Looking into it closely, the Dawson front post with it's tiny itty bitty screw was screwed down too far. It was only 0.010-0.015" protruding, but that was enough to cause the issue. Taking off the sight instantly allowed the side to go smoothly into battery. Take care to ensure that your dawson front sight screw is not protruding at all inside the slide~! The next issue required a call to Joe at Patriot Defense. Cycling the slide wouldn't always hold the hammer back. DF in DA was perfect but thumbing the hammer back, it wouldn't always hold for SA. So, what's the "big deal" needing a conference with the experts?? Well, that's the classic symptom of "hammer follow" where the gun could potentially go wild on ya. Turns out a combination of things was causing it, but basically the firing pin block safety spring was over powering the sear spring. A new sear spring and a careful trim of the firing pin block safety spring fixed it. The spring was trimmed from 0.420" down to 0.300" and it is performing all the DF checks correctly. Always check your equipment over and remember, "if it isn't right... it's wrong" . Anything that doesn't feel right is where you should STOP and investigate.

The PD light weight guiderod will save you about 3/4 oz. It is also a "cone fit" to protect the gun by increasing the bearing area in the frame. That's probably your best option.

Patriot Defense Only 6 left in stock when @Apolo brought them to my attention.

The Patriot Defence 15.5 is good for nearly any reloaded primer seated well and ALL factory ammo i've tried. But, I recently ran out of winchester and used Wolf... Yikes. Put in the FACTORY spring and the pull went from 5 1/2# to 7 1/4# DA. But all the polishing done makes it smooth as "butta", as they say. The only thing holding my classification down is no-shoots jumping in front fo my bullets. Oh, the Wolf primers are seriously fubar, IMHO. Seated at 0.005 deep they may not go off . Seated 0.007 deep and they may be crushed and never go off. Seated at 0.006" deep and they go off 99% of the time with that 1% not going off no matter what I do. And that's with the FACTORY hammer spring using the PD firing pin spring. Now I remember why they have been on the shelf gathering dust ....

Better (narrow) dawson front fiber post. Patriot Defense grips 10 hours of polishing 10,000 hours of dry fire that will just about guarantee a GM card and many wins

Dry fire...

This is the important view. the dot is VERY low. In fact, there is almost no difference in drawn gun position between dot and iron sights. It makes the transition from iron to dot as close to seamless as imaginable.

The pin block is 100% functional.