alma

Someone mentioned this but try explicitly bringing your finger out and resting (or at least touching) it on the frame above your trigger. I seem to have made it a habit to do this at the same time as push the magazine release with my thumb. In your dry fire practice focus on where that finger is during your reloads. It will take a lot of repetitions to break old habits.

nice

The race masters are nice but I had to move a bit of material to prevent the mags from hangings up on the mag catch hole on the way out. I also put a little bit of oil on a finger lightly oil the inside of the pouches before each match. Great retention, I have never had a magazine fallout, and smooth release. If you are considering Ghost you can look at the package deal at Ben Stoeger's Pro Shop. http://www.benstoegerproshop.com/mobile/Product.aspx?ProductCode=Belt-Pouches

Yeah, as long as it's on the Production list http://www.uspsa.org/uspsa-NROI-production-gunlist.php

Maybe someone who knows Tanfos like Kneelingatlas can help to identify one like that without a safety on that side. I found this on a similar discussion:

Why would a safety get in the way of fitting in the box?

Does any Production legal gun come without a right hand safety? D4 21.6 is the rule: "Any other components which are externally visible may ONLY be replaced with OFM parts which are offered on the specific model of gun or another approved gun from the same manufacturer except as specifically clarified below. Examples of external components which may only be replaced with OFM parts include (but are not limited to): magazine releases, slide stops, thumb safeties and triggers."

Is there a Production legal gun that comes with that style safety?

Mags available here http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=199819#entry2216206

Ain't nobody got time for that!

Shooting on the move found its time and place Thanks for the encouragement. It seems to me that shooting on the move is often overemphasized on this forum. I have even seen some suggest that you should always be shooting on the move. The fact is that shooting on the move is usually a tool that should come out for particular stages with close or medium range targets that happen to conveniently be along the path that you need to follow anyway. Other than that I think the most important incarnation of shooting on the move is to smooth out entering and exiting positions. Second to that is minimizing the overall number of positions or set ups that you have to take. I shot a match on Saturday and did fairly will on most stages. As soon as it have time I will be posting some thoughts on trigger control. Right now I am seeing this as the most significant speed bump in my way. It is showing up on dot drills and plate racks. I am busy trying to reposition my trigger finger based on dry fire feedback but more on that later. I won a couple of stages outright among a field that included 1 GM(who was having a bad day) 3 Ms, and a few high As. It's the first stage on the video below. What is interesting to see when comparing video of the video of some other shooting is that my splits where not nearly as fast as many of the other shooters but using a relaxed pace to shoot on the move, shooting while getting into position, choose positions where I can minimize the number of set ups. It also helped to be tell enough to make a shot over the shoulder of the no-shoot that was obscuring targets at the last port. I way also taking full advantage of shooting on the move on the last stage on this video. Almost everyone else on my squad started shooting from the start position taking 5 targets before moving forward, walked closely past 3 of the targets which were just shot and eventually moving into a position very close to a 4th that was being shot at the start position. Even with stopping for that first hard shot shooting on the move bought me a few seconds and I endeavor up with a bettor time that all but one Production shooter on my squad. One big problem that I noticed is that when I am coming into the second position my splits need to speeds up when I am planted at those closer targets. There were several stages with a lot of steel and I found myself having to refocus on trigger control to knock them down reliably. One of these stages a messed up pretty bad, moving to a new position leaving one target standing, and then taking almost 4 seconds to come back for it. Taking this mission would have left me with a higher hit factor. One more mention, there was one long stage where the video is cut into two sections. In that stage there is a long run followed by a plate rack and 4 paper targets. The big question is when to stop for that plate rack. It might be a bit hard to see because it's also about where the RO drops his gun but I chose to shoot the first paper target before the plate rack. This allowed me to start shooting on that target while I was slowing down and getting into position for the plate rack. On the last target array on that stage I intend to shoot the high target first on the move coming into position but I didn't get my reload in fast enough. I finished second place at 95.611% in my division which consisted of 30 Production shooters.

Like someone else said in your only have 3 magazines then just shoot Limited minor this time until you get mine. Having 18 rounds in the gun might be nice at first anyway sorry you don't have as many reloads to worry about. Must clubs let you shoot the first time without USPSA membership. Just mark PEN (pending) where it asks for membership number and when you join USPSA will give you credit for the Classifier you shot. Contact the match director if possible and let him or her know that you will be shooting. Some clubs have a new shooter orientation. Have fun and good luck!

I also run 5 on my belt and one in the gun. I used to run only four pouches and never needed a fifth. I now run 5 but I would really only need that fifth one if something went catastrophically wrong. I am running DAA Race Master pouches and the occasional yard sales on magazines that I used to get with my kydex pouches is nothing but a faint memory.

I prefer the finger extensions on the CZ 18 rounders and they worked got me just fine but if you use them long term buy the plus 10% mag springs. The 17 round MecGar or CZC nickel plated seem to be the best magazine design from a reliability perspective and the MecGar are a bit cheaper but if you go that way you might consider replacement basepads. I am using the nickel CZC mags and Springer Precision basepads but there are lots or options. Three of my order 18 rounders have been converted to 22-23 round 140mm mags and another 3 are dedicated dry fire mags so I don't bang up my nice ones more than necessary.

It's more common to slap on the close fast stuff and use the controlled release on shots requiring more accuracy.

Just got back from the range and chrono. 147gr RN X-treme 3.2gr N320 1.13 OAL Winchester primers 129 PF FYI 3.0gr is like 120-122PF

Try this https://www.facebook.com/download/539522582842368/2014_Area_8_Match_Book_.docx

Consider Nest.

I would try modifying the sight first. It's cheaper to replace after all. Measure closely and try removing some material from the bottom of the sight notch first. I took a triangle file from Harbor Freight, put a piece of tape on one side, and removed some material from the rear of the part that fits into the notch. After I had it in I did notice that it left a slight very gap between the sight and the slide but the notch was solid and it all fits very well so no issues; however, if I had it to do over I would start by removing that material from the bottom first and then clean up the rear of the notch.

Obviously there are some waves in the ranks of the leadership but I give them the benefit of the doubt that most are honest in their intentions to be fair and improve the sport. Disagreements and dysfunction at the BOD level won't manifest themselves in any significant way tomorrow when I show up to shoot one of the local club matches. I still enjoy the sport despite the less than ideal sausage making process. Since we vote in Area Directors and the President maybe keeping your membership and voting shooters demonstrating the level of integrity and dedication that you are seeking. Better yet, why don't you run and directly work to improve the imperfections? Edit: I may not like everything the US Government does but I am still not going to move to Mexico.

I haven't tested them all but researched before it purchased. Thunder and Titan are the best but ATC is very close (or better. See below) and not as loud. Shurefire is less effective than these. I think the Miculek is better than the Shurefire but maybe not quite as effective as the Thunder or Titan. Patrick Kelly has an older article that compares many of the last generation of comps.

I really want to know if I can go head first........ Maybe that's why your pistol is completely empty if you choose not to stage it.

Just go down to the SN on one side and really far down on the other. That worked out well for me since I reload from the side opposite the SN and that is where I really want to get low.

Double check the pistol start condition for Stage 1. Right now it reads loaded or empty chamber and seems to be the shooters choice. I usually see that as dependent on which gun you are going to start with. Shutting up now...

That's a CZ thing in general. I have not broken one on my TS or Shadow but I know others who have. I did recently acquire a match only slide lock that goes in the gun when it counts and then comes back out to let the other one get beat up for practice.