promtcy

I'll take a stab at something. It might be something simple, although I think I see a couple of things. If I'm wrong hopefully someone will correct me. You are still being pushed back by the gun. Look at this vid https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4cKDQRa1LUg&t= It might help. Rob Leatham also has a vid I can't seem to find about how you should actually almost move forward when you stop shooting. I believe he described the stance as like leaning against a wall. If it were me I would be thinking that there's not much chance of me having a solid grip and being able to control the gun if I am off balance and because I'm moving backwards I have to keep realigning the vertical point of aim. If you hold the gun out and point it at a target and then rock your upper body backwards you'll notice the gun is now aimed higher than it was. If that makes any sense. So to get the gun back on target you are having to re-position yourself. As an experiment you might try moving your right foot back a little and see if that helps. But mainly I think you just need to lean into it a little more, with some minor effort. The second thing I'm wondering is if your recoil spring is too stiff. That will make the gun bounce. Aha, found the vids: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HW6dKcW6qmY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fnYjzEpFTEU

Your head is forward, I'm not experienced enough to comment on that being good or bad. I hinge at the hips and bend my knees a little. Not a lot, just enough to keep me stable. It's not as far as some would call an "athletic stance", I'm just not standing completely upright. Again, my technique isn't one you should necessarily aspire to emulate. I have not taken any instruction and while I shoot well enough, I think I suck at a lot of things. I just noticed what I pointed out and I'm pretty sure that's not what you want to have happen.

Look at where your head is when you start shooting and where it is when you stop. I also compared a line on the wall with the front of your jacket, your upper body doesn't appear to be wobbling so much as being driven back. I used to have the same issue, I just lean my upper body forward from the hips a little more. I'm a scrub though so hopefully someone more experienced will weigh in.

I have to run stuff that is .400 for my 40 and .355 for my 9mm. I run Blue Bullets in my 40 and they are awesome. The profile fits my barrel perfectly and I can load them any length I want. They are consistent, accurate and they match my mag extensions. For my 9mm I've tried several and until recently couldn't find anything I liked so I was running Xtreme plated at 1.15 oal. At Xmas I ordered some 125 grain Gallants, they sized them to .355 for me. They have a much different ogive than any other I've tried, I can load them to 1.17 without issue. I couldn't load the Xtremes that long. Not that loading long is some holy grail, it's just that my barrel didn't like any other coated bullet that I had to load short. The Gallants have been fairly consistent weights, all 127.5 to 128.5. The diameter is pretty good, not as consistent as Blue Bullets or Acme. The coating does seem a bit thin. They used to coat them gold, now they do them in Leatherhead Bronze. I know they say they are made to order, but mine have the bronze coating over the gold coating. The most important thing is they have been consistently accurate.

As others said, email. TTI and Stoeger are also offering 20% off the basepads. I think they are all the same price.

I just loaded 1K rounds in the last two days. Stuff meters great in my LNL, better than N320. I was spot checking and it was never off at all. I use the exact same load as I did with N320. Para P16.40 4.6 grains 180 grain Blue Bullets 1.18 OAL I chrono'd some rounds a couple weeks ago and the avg with 4.6 grains was 943.2 for 169.78 power factor. Low was 912, high 958, Std Dev was 12.73. They hit in the exact same POI as my N320. Accuracy was close enough I couldn't tell them apart. Gonna work on some 9mm rounds next with 125 grain Blue Bullets.

Shooters Connection has some deals: I got some TTI basepads TTI Basepads, mag extensions, springs, etc: TTI20 CK Arms Gun $200 off: CK200 Elftmann Trigger 10% off CODA Carbon Fiber Handguard 15% off Red Hill Tactical Heavy Duty Holster 15% off: RH15

SPS with stock guts and TTI base pads. They've run 100% in both my Para Pro Customs. They are essentially SVI mags. If you compare them they look identical. I had issues with STI in my guns.

Cant speak to Perfecta but I've loaded a ton of 9mm Xtreme as many people at my range shoot it and don't reload. Never had any issues but I did find a steel case once.

There are may things that can affect accuracy. The results you get from each load you develop are because of the combinations. Change one thing and the results will be different. Some big, some small. In my personal experience the things that made the most difference in accuracy were in order, crimp, bullets, powder charge. Going to a different bullet can mean trying a different weight and also trying a different diameter. I load as long as I can and have not found loading shorter to improve accuracy. I've never loaded for a revolver though. You already understand the process of trying a different powder charge so no need to go over that. I have used HP-38 in various different bullet and caliber combinations and it always worked well for me. If it were me, I'd try a different bullet first. Good luck.

Not to discount working with a GM, just keep in mind that because someone has mastered the skills to reach GM level doesn't mean they know how to teach someone else to improve. My brother in law is a PGA Teaching Professional and while he is a scratch player he is a much better teacher. He is constantly working on his teaching techniques, including diagnosing how a particular student learns and what they are physically capable of doing. It's an art, and not everyone is good at it. Cha-Lee and pjb have pretty much nailed it.

http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/Flourescent.htm Just find the size you need. Most of mine are .040, I ordered the .039 size. I have two identical pistols in different calibers and I have red in one, green in the other. I honestly can't really seem to tell much difference.

Look up Satco chain pliers. If you need to make them more narrow a small mallet or hammer will work. Have you checked out Atlas Gun Works on youtube?

I didn't see all of what happened, but when I looked at the nook it appeared our merged squad was not correct. We also had 14 people standing in that bay, so something got screwed up in the translation. I didn't see or hear everything that transpired, it just seemed like it could have been handled better.

I wasn't suggesting new 2x4's be put out before the match. I guess it's just that time where they are getting shot up enough that they end up breaking during the match if someone hits them or hits the plate with a 45. Combine that with a late start and a dead timer and we ended up with exactly what everyone has been trying to avoid, a really late squad. The MD did fix the shooters missing number. I just thought his choice of wording wasn't the best.

No, I was up on the line and didn't hear any of the conversation.

I just noticed that on Practiscore. Keep me posted on what transpires. Seems odd he would let you shoot the whole match and then do it after.

I use one small piece on the side of mine to help me locate my weak hand thumb. I bought a 33x9 inch piece of Jessup tape at a local skate board shop for $4.95

lol, he didn't tell you the whole story. This MD took over in Jan or Feb. I am not sure if he's ever been an MD before but the quality and fun factor for the match has gone way downhill in just the short time he's been in place. Granted, the previous MD left a very high bar for him to live up too. We typically have 60-80 shooters and shoot all 8 stages. There is a squad that is typically slower than the rest and in an attempt to speed them up he moves other squads starting stages. Not a huge deal, It's just that I squad myself on the stage I like to start on. In fact I have not started on the stage I wanted since he took over. Imho he should squad himself with that slow squad and help them along, not move the rest of us around. What he's doing hasn't been working. We ended up being the last squad this month due to the mix up with tablet's and some other stuff listed below. The last two months we've had a timer either go dead or they were dead already. Quite a few of them had really low battery life. We've also run into a lot of 2x4's that are close to breaking when the match starts. If you get people missing low or a few 45 ACP rounds hitting them it's not long before we are searching for replacement boards. He made some comments in the briefing about someone last month who forgot to put in their USPSA number and asked him to get that in because this person would move from a C to a B. His comments were that he wouldn't do it again and something about "especially for a C to B shooter". All the people involved are volunteers so it's hard to complain. Especially since I can't help with this match because of my work schedule. I do help with other stuff on the range. It's just disappointing. I get the feeling that instead of trying to ensure the match goes smoothly, he's just trying to establish his authority. I'm sure he's not doing it intentionally and dead timers and broken boards are going to happen. We're just used to it being the exception and not the rule.

I have a feeling they may not be able to post them. You didn't even tell the rest of the story. Dead timer on a stage (a few of them were really low and this happened last month as well), searching for 2x4's to replace broken ones, etc. I didn't realize it was so late when we finished, I was close to being late for work. I'm going to write him an email, I'm just sorting out how I want to say things. I don't know if he's ever been an MD before but the match quality and fun factor have decreased since he took over. I wasn't fond of being moved to a different starting stage in their attempt to speed up the "slow" squad. I sign up where I do for a reason. If he wants to speed up the slow squad he should put himself in that squad and help them go faster, not move the rest of us around. I got moved last month for a different reason. The comments he made at the briefing about the "C to B" shooter from last month wasn't cool either. The persons classification shouldn't matter and should never have been mentioned, either do what the person asked or don't.

I shot the dots today at 3 yds with my 9 and 40 just to sort of see where I am. I know I need to work on trigger and recoil control as well as accuracy. I shot 5 rounds instead of 6 because I wanted to shoot 50 rounds each. It was interesting. At 3 yds both my guns POI is at the bottom of the circle when my POA is at the center. Most of my times were 4.8 to 5.5 secs. I've only shot 2 USPSA matches so I thought this was a good drill to try and build some consistency. I tried shooting weak hand only at one circle with my 40 and that was sad. I also thought I was going to hit myself in the head with that thing.

So are you landing in the 2nd box with your left or right foot? I was always working on the assumption that I wanted to land with my right foot, assuming I could start shooting sooner. Turns out it's actually faster for me to take the first step with my right and land in the box on my left.

I wash/rinse mine in a colander in the sink to get the sand and dirt out. To dry I put them in the oven at 150 for about 15 mins. Then I throw them in a bin until I get enough to mess with. I throw them in a box and spray a little home made lube on and toss them around in the box. I deprime on my Hornady LNL with the sizing die. I have a U-Die, just never used it. I use SS Pins, Armor-All wash & wax and some lemishine. When I was using Dawn the cases would tarnish in storage, with the Armor-All they don't. I only chose Armor-All because it was cheap. At some point I'd like to try a decapping tool just to save the wear and tear on my press. I like my brass shiny as well, it just doesn't really make any performance difference as far as I could ever tell. Before I got my wet tumbler I just washed the cases out, deprimed them and loaded them. Other than looks the only advantage for me in wet tumbling is that I get a couple extra steps to inspect the brass in case I missed something the first time.

Interesting. That never occurred to me. Although in this particular case I think something happened to the inside of the stock part. As I mentioned it felt like something was gritty but it wasn't on the outside. The one from my P18 feels fine but the P16 one developed an issue. I didn't realize the mag catch from Dawson didn't come with the spring or the release lock so I used the ones I had and it works fine. Although I think I'm going to order one for my P18 and when I do I'll order new springs and release locks as well. I like the SPS mags. I tried someone's STI mag in my gun and it was kind of sloppy. They also held one less round than the SPS mags. The nice thing about the SPS mags is I haven't had to change anything. They've run 100% in both guns just the way they came. I am going to order TTI base pads for them eventually.

Thanks HCH, I assumed I was doing that. My hand isn't close enough because the release button is recessed. I tried moving the gun around and I could not physically touch it with my left hand. I finally got to the range with the new Guncraft part today and ran it with no problems at all. The Guncraft protrudes into the mag farther. It does not make the mags sit any higher than the one that came with the gun. SPS mags ran flawless so far as well. I know they don't always work for other guns, but they are great in my two Para's. $158 shipped from Spain for two mags.