SWprotected

I recently had this issue get me for the first time. I shoot 2011s for USPSA and IDPA. I pin the safety on my limited and open guns, I never had an issue with my IDPA gun until I put a wider thumb safety on the gun. I think a set of smaller tactical safeties help prevent this I went back to the slimmer safety and have not had this problem again.

Capacity, even when the guys shooting 40 have to reload the extra rounds provides some cushion for make up shots. There are also those 20 or 21rd stages that have little movement and you will be reloading and someone shooting 40 may not be.

TG is a fine choice for 9mm minor loads. I have used other powders than may offer a softer feel or a little cleaner, but TG is accurate and reasonably priced I just don't see any reason to use anything else as long as it is available.

I have a friend who shot a glock 34 for years until he found a deal on an 2011. He was very disappointed initially with his performance with the 2011, it has taken him about a year but now he says he wouldn't go back. You are not only looking at a change in platform but a change in caliber and it does make a difference and the learning curve will depend on how much time you spend with the gun in your hands. When I switched I was shooting an M&P Pro 9mm for IDPA and the 2011 for limited, I did not truly feel I was making progress with the 2011 until I shot it exclusively so I bought another just for IDPA and have not looked back. I still like my M&P and can shoot it well enough but the difference in trigger is worth the change to me.

It would not surprise me if that many are not already sold through pre order.

At a nationals level event I do look for some increased difficulty, but this year the match was a grind. The stages had plenty of places to rack up penalties and when every stage is that way it makes the match less like fun and more like work. I managed to stay in the single digits for penalties 5M and 1 NS but my time was slower than I would have liked. I would like to have seen a few more open targets.

I do not see where they advertise 27 reloadable, but that they will hold 27. I am in the same boat as you mine will fit 27 but not reloadable, but I do like the size of the mag better than trying to reload with a big stick. I also like not having to use a spacer.

You may also want to put a new recoil spring in. The slide may not be moving forward as fast as it did before if you have several thousand rounds on that spring.

The LEE classic turret press is a great little press. It will produce 150 -200rph, and they are not very expensive. I bought one and have never had any trouble with it and loaded 15-20k on it, but when I got to shooting that kind of volume a progressive became the better choice. From a learning standpoint the turret is a good choice because only one thing is happening at a time, you may find this helpful. I am certain if you buy a turret press you will eventually upgrade to a progressive, but the turret press will always be useful for load development or running small batches of ammo. Having more than one press is not a bad thing. Good luck with whatever you choose.

RS seems to be inverse sensitive. My load was 4.4 gr and almost always chronoed about 170Pf. But at the last match I shot it was 95 and I made 166. I checked again when I got home and my chrono confirmed the 166.

I have not had any issues with Blue bullets in a long time, but you could have gotten some that have a little thicker coating on them. If you are running a U die and not lubing the cases I have found this will cause the press to run rough as well. I know a lot of people do not like the FCD but if everything else is right it really does not do anything but crimp. If you have some bulge it will iron that out. As far as swaged bullets, I have never had an issue it will squeeze them down some but I have never had accuracy issues nor problems with leading with coated bullets. It could be something else causing the rough cycling of the press but the bullets are what I would check first. If you have any other bullets to try see if the problem persists with a different bullet.

Thats what i use as well. When they used to size them .401 I had the same issue you describe when they went .400 the problem went away. Measure some and see what they actually are. For me a bullet thats .401 will run pretty smooth but anythong over it gets rough. Also some brass is thicker which will make it a rough as well. Its kind of stacking tolerances. I use the FCD becuase I find it helps iron out any bulges in the cases after seating a bullet.

The press running rough is because of the bullet size. If you use .401" coated they will cause the press to run rough, if you use .400" everything smooths out.

There are a lot of guys out there that can build you a nice gun. For me it would come down to how they are to deal with. I had Jeff Abernathy build a limited gun for me as well as work over an Edge I already owned. Jeff did a great job on both guns and never failed to return a call or text when I had questions. I recently purchased a Limcat from another member here and have talked to Julian several times and exchanged many emails with him and again customer service was top notch. On this thread you have a builder trying to get your business and has made a pretty awesome offer to return your money if you don't think the gun is the best, that says a lot especially putting it out there on this forum where a lot of people do there research on builders and experiences people have with them. It is a tough call, call some of these guys and see what you think.

Thanks.

If you are using an STI 170mm tube which base pad?

You may have to load them a little shorter, I can load 180s at 1.19" but the 200s at that length contact the lands in my gun. I think I went to 1.17 and they were fine, but personally I didn't find there to be a lot of difference between the 200s and 180s while shooting.

You need to flare the case more, you don't want to break the coating at all. If you are scraping off the coating that will increase the amount of smoke. Coated bullets are all I shoot in my limited guns and they work very well. Bayous are some of the best on the market, very consistent and accurate. Also when you crimp you just want enough to remove the flare, pull a bullet and look at it there should barely be a mark from the case mouth.

I generally shoot with the same group of guys all the time. There are pros and cons, we have a lot of fun and give each other grief but we also will be honest in our feedback about how a stage run looked and where we may each get better. Sometimes it doesn't need to be a better shooter to give a tip that will help you get better. If I have the chance to squad with someone who beats me regularly I try to watch what they do and learn from it. I don't usually ask a lot of questions during a stage I may ask between stages if I see them do something I don't understand, I find this lets them have time after they shoot to get their self together after they shoot and not feel pressured. I try to remember that the shooters who are really good still feel pressure because they are expected to perform at a high level, even if its self imposed expectation and sometimes when they are not meeting these expectations they may come across a little harsh.

Thanks, It was used so I don't have any spares. I will see if I can get them from C-More.

Anybody know what size the sets screws are, and where can replacement screws be bought.

The best thing to do is not worry about the rule book, ask the SO running the stage. I have seen this go both ways, leave mag on table, or be forced to retain it on my person, this has been at local as well as Major matches. I have not found it beneficial to argue either way with the SO I just do it the way it is described in the stage brief and ask question before I shoot to be sure. I don't enjoy arguing over rules, IDPA has rules I don't like but I enjoy shooting and some IDPA matches are fun so I just go with it.

Jeff Abernathy, he is in North Carolina. He does a great job and his prices are very reasonable.

To me a custom gun is not about who makes what part, you are paying for the craftsmanship and fitting of those parts to build a finely tuned machine. Give a great craftsman okay parts and he can still build a great gun. Give a poor craftsman the best of everything and you will end up with a poor gun. Both of these builders have outstanding reputations, I think at the level of the products they put out its very much about the way you want your gun to look and in that area SVI does have an advantage with more options.

I would not load any longer than 1.18, most 2011 will run fine at that length. Start low and work up in 0.1 increments and I am sure you will find what works best in your gun. If you do a search on here you will find a ton of info. on N320 and 180gr. bullets, 320 is very popular.