Gooldylocks

50k+

Again...

See above. It will likely be exactly that (20-22). If they run the short courses/classifiers as split stages then that frees up other bays for additional field course stages.

Do you read the whole thread before you post?

He also very clearly said some stops would have more than 1 stage. If you shoot 6 classifiers in only 3 stops, then that is still 15 "real" stages as Steven calls them. Personally I am all for a balanced match. Standards, short courses/speed shoots, and technical mediums separate people very well. Much better than a 32 round open target hose-fest that most people seem to prefer.

Sarge, a more correct way of saying that would be "most" rackers don't come that way. Just buy a Zig racker and be done with it. It comes with the milling directions in the package. Cut the dovetail, then put two detents in the slide for the balls already inside the racker and voila, fin.

Aaaaaannnnnd Charlie shows up and acts like a xxx. Big surprise there. Just because I want to have a sexy sub-1 second reload doesn't mean I don't also work on moving efficiently or shooting on the move to shave 2-3 seconds off per stage. You act as though those things are mutually exclusive, which they very clearly are not. I can practice crushing my .6 par time reloads all evening in the comfort of my living room, then go to the range and shoot a whole bunch of movement drills in live fire. Just as Jake said, if I can crush .7s in practice, then when I get to a match and do a 1.1 it is going to be 100%.

My best one reload one ever was a 1.37. 0.66 draw and a .71 reload. 4 Aces I have gotten down into the 1.8s, if I remember right. Recently with my lack of dryfire, both the draw and reload have been suffering--last Friday in practice the only 4 Aces I shot was a 2.34 at 10 yards, down 1. 0.98 draw, 1.0something reload. Moral of the story? Never put off your dryfire.

I felt like you when I first started shooting as well, as a poor college student. After about 2 years, I realized I wanted to have a 2011 and I managed to make it happen. Sell a couple guns, don't go out to eat, scrape together some pennies and look for a good deal. If you really want one, you can make it happen.

Not really a great representation, since it doesn't move. The best way I have found to shoot them is pick a side and shoot it, rather than crossing back and forth. If properly executed you can clear a Texas star that way in very little time with minimal muzzle movement. Going head-hand-hand-foot-foot can be as fast as the other way, but there is a higher chance of disaster. Also, just don't worry about it. You aren't ever gonna see one at a major.

There are some exceptions to the bullpup = terrible trigger. Notably, the Desert Tech rifles.

It is a laminate wood stock that is painted, so it should be much stiffer and stronger than the HMR. Multiple people on Sniper's Hide say the forend of the HMR is a bit flexier than they would like. I also saw one video where a Ruger rep at SHOT said the rifle has a 26" barrel rather than the 24 that is listed on the website. So we shall see.

There just is no good way to put a light on the frame of an open gun. Your holster simply wouldn't work. And, in most situations I have experienced when it is really really dark, is the amount of muzzle flash and sparks coming out of the gun is so beyond distracting that it is nearly impossible to see the targets anyway. Perhaps a light would make them less obvious, but I don't know. The most... elegant(?) solution I have seen was 2 scope mounts and some extra long screws, with one of them bolted on backwards then a light attached to that.

MBX big stick is 165, you are going to want 3 140s to go on your belt. 140s are 100 apiece from Henning. The CMate comes with that many mags to start with, though the CMate big sticks are super duper lame. Definitely need tuning.

Mount from eaa was $88 sight under $200 with OP coupon, im talking about shopping around. Okay, so you saved like 80 bucks. You still need the mags and trigger work. I just think it is a lot closer than people make it out to be.

Really? 1850 for the gun, 210 for sight, 100+ for trigger work, 150 mount, nearly 500 for mags... I'm not seeing "several hundred" less than a Czechmate.

Good plan haha. Not something you normally think of as a consumable, but I guess "racin' is break'n" would qualify here.

I have a 40% Master production classification from doing this.

Dawson considers the Al guide rods are considered disposable, so be aware of that. It will probably need changed out much more frequently than a steel one would.

It could be quite enlightening though, is all I'm saying. People often (not saying this is necessarily you) spend way too much time worrying about shit that doesn't matter. Working on finding the perfect load that has 5% less felt recoil and 2.13% less muzzle rise is a waste of time, effort, and money. Pick something and shoot. Also, lighter bullets are cheaper. I don't agree. If he switched to a normal setup he would quickly match and surpass his current speed, because of the exact reason you state (he practices a ton). It is just a fact that outside the waistband/non-concealed equipment is quicker to get at. If he did reloads at the same relative speed as currently does but didn't have to fight his shirt to get there, he will easily save 0.2-0.5 per reload. Highly skilled shooters don't really get thrown off by changes in equipment in my experience; they just make the change, train with that change for a little while, and pick up very near where they left off. Because the fundamentals of drawing/reloading/shooting a gun are always the same. Regardless of whether you are shooting an open gun from a race holster or a factory gun from AIWB.

Dawson aluminum guide rod or GI recoil system, aluminum or plastic MSH. I would bet that gets you there.

Gabe would absolutely make GM with a race belt, or if he shot a G35 rather than a G34. Changing either of those things would push him over the edge, I'm pretty certain. I have seen him put up multiple "hundos", that were torpedoed by shooting minor PF. I still think he will make GM at some point even with his current setup, it is just going to take longer. I would bet the timer can't. Try it and get back to us. I am positive someone could make GM with a gun straight out of the box and factory ammo if they wanted. If Gabe can get that close to it while shooting from concealment, doing it from a regular setup seems extremely doable.

Word on the ol Instagram is this is somethin John McClain is testing right now (as a factory variant). On the video he specifically mentions designing/using it for multigun and steel challenge with minor ammo.

My question, where did you find a Howa Bravo? I haven't seen them available anywhere yet.

Where the dot goes during recoil is pretty irrelevant, so long as it returns to where you want it to be. If the up and to the right bothers you though You should just play with different grip pressures until you get what you want. But remember, more grip is always better (until it is interdering with your dexterity). You should also try 115s with the HS6, that will be a flatter shooting load that might make the up and to the right slightly better.