Gooldylocks

You absolutely could shoot that one faster, yes. Personally I would expect my splits and transitions (with my open gun) to be about 0.16s and 0.2s for the lower targets and .25-.3 for the top targets. My point was to illustrate that a lot of the times people quote aren't honest, and you don't actually need to have a 0.7 draw and a 0.9 reload or you are a total scrub and won't be successful. I personally like speeding up through the string, so I would probably shoot the upper targets aiming at the A/C line (basically center of brown), which would probably net me a couple As at least. Then reload to the bottom targets and shred. Probably down 4-6 total.

And what exactly are you being forced to take in this instance? A different cardboard target for a game, that is more challenging while also improving competitive equity?

I generally shoot both Dot Torture (no par) and The Dots at 10 yards (4 second par). Granted, I generally don't clean it. But they both make for excellent warmups.

This is the real answer. Whatever your times are now, but faster. Whatever your accuracy is now, but more accurate.

Do the math on those times, and it may surprise you what class those times would get you up to. Especially since those are supposed to be "honest" times, which I would venture to guess most people don't report. I am guessing there are a whole lot fewer people out there that have an honest 1.0 reload than people that say they do. I would bet there are a lot more people that can do a 1.0 draw to A but wouldn't get 1.0 on a reload short of going absolutely crazy and just throwing hopers. Just like people that can draw in 0.7 or something. Can they physically do it/have done it? Sure. Can they do that on demand in a match? For most of them, no they can't. People lie to themselves about what they are actually capable of, 100% of the time, on demand. And, further, those are just some random numbers I pulled out of my head. Like I said in my post, I think all of the baseline times are kinda irrelevant. See how fast and accurate you are now, then go faster and be more accurate than you were before. Keep track of it. As an example of the math: CM13-06 Too Close For Comfort. 1.0+0.3+0.3+0.3+0.3+1.3+0.3+0.3+0.3+0.3=4.7 seconds. 50points/4.7=10.64HF. That is easily 100% in all but Open division. CM13-01 Disaster Factor (with slower reload, transitions, and splits for the second half on the hard targets). 1.5+0.25+0.3+0.25+.0.3+0.25+1.5+0.3+0.35+0.3+0.35+0.3=5.95 seconds. 60/5.95=10.08HF. That is essentially 100% in Prod, Lim, L10, SS, 94% run in CO.. Again, Open is the only exception.

People need to get over their complete and totally ridiculous fear of anything they deem "PC". This is a game, pure and simple. The turtle targets are more challenging, in the spirit of that game. This game has martial roots, just as judo or javelin do. But at this point, it is nothing but a game, and people pretending that it is self defense training are misguided. It does, however, improve your gun handling and marksmanship under pressure, skills that transcend into any armed encounter someone could find themselves in. If you can shoot alphas at will at speed on a classic target, I don't think there would be any issues hitting an attacker in a SD scenario.

I think the point is that the progress levels that you are talking about are irrelevant. I would even go so far as to say the GM times are fairly irrelevant. Keep track of what you can do personally, and always push to improve on that. The goal times give you a target to aim for while moving through that personal journey, but even those at some point you will surpass and then you will just have to do what I am describing anyway. I think some realistic good goals would be (for a 10 yd A hit, open metric): draw in 1.0 reload in <1.3 turn and draw in the <1.5 range, transitions <.3 split <.25 Everything else is just some combination of those things. Record where you are at now, start keeping track of your progress, and then push to get faster and more accurate.

Buy a 9 and never buy a single piece of brass. Once your gun is running don't keep messing with it, and it will run fine. Between the other two, supercomp.

If you need 23 rounds to complete a classifier, you aren't in contention to make GM regardless. So that is irrelevant haha

I wouldn't care at all if they were the required target. The only problems with that I personally would have would be all the classifiers that would all need to be thrown out that use Metrics, and that we couldn't place targets upside down ever. Which is great for making people think rather than just flinging rounds at brown.

......and?

yup Classics, Turtles, IPSCs, amoebas.... I don't care what you call them, I like them better.

As hard as you can hold on, just like any pistol.

I wouldn't be afraid of it blowing up for any reason, but I would use slow powder. HS6 or slower. HS6 and load as long as your throat will allow maybe? AA7? 3n38? 1.18"+?

+1 Though I personally like shooting all of the divisions, each has its own flavor. Not to mention that some of the heat will never shoot anything except for one of the other divisions, so if you want to see how you stack up you got to go play their game.

Very arguably... I have had two different Sliderides lose zero, but have never had an issue with either a RTS2 or DPP. OP: absolutely do not ditch the DPP for a slideride.

"Advertised" and real are very often different. Load and unload them a few times and leave them to sit for a couple days and see if it gets any better, but chances are good they won't get enough better to make them reloadable. This is the very definition of reloadable in my book. My big stick holds and runs 100% at 29, but I would definitely not consider it reloadable at 29.

I don't really think so, by all accounts the die is well made and it can load Shellshock or brass cases. So if you bought the die then from then forward you could do both. I think they are a good idea, and would be great for 9 or 38 major. But I have never bought a piece of 9 brass... So it's a no for me. If they can maintain their low prices and add 38SC, I think we could definitely see some super shooters moving away from starline.

The die you need to load shellshock cases. Since they are steel, you have to use a special sizer.

The one in the die for ejecting the case.

That is pretty bold... I would guess the second one is legal, it doesn't appear to be more than 1/2" from the front of the ejection port. But again, it is kinda hard to tell without measuring.

How many do you get in your 170s? Because everyone I know has had issues with their mags. With tuning 28-29 is easy and reliable.

Yup. You are being actively punished for not obeying the rules. There are times when I have really not wanted to have to do that as an RO, but rules is rules. Personally, when I shoot production I have my rear most pouch with 11 in it. As soon as I see unloaded start, I take out that mag and pop out the top round. Then your Make Ready procedure doesn't change at all. Same thing if it is an unloaded gun holstered start, because if for some crazy reason I ended up going to pouch 6 on my belt I don't want it to have 11 in it and end up bumped. \rant: I have never really understood why people will go up and put in a mag with 10, then rack one in, then put that one back and pull out a different mag and then have to do this whole magazine shuffle business. Make your Make Ready sequence as simple and routine as it can be, and focus 100% on doing it the same every time. Doing it the same puts your mind in the "okay it's time to shoot a stage" mode and will make you perform better. /rant

Or they could actually fix the HHFs for PCC then recalculate people and move them down to where they are supposed to be.

Slower powder is better. Both in feel and safety. Especially in a 38, why would you shoot anything faster than HS6 (and probably slower, like AA7, 3n38, etc)?