Gooldylocks

Many different companies have made these. Frankly, I don't like any of them. If you are interested in a way-back mount though, Everglades or Hamlet are really your two choices at the moment. I don't think SV makes them anymore and I'm fairly certain Atlas discontinued them. You can get the EGA from their website, or the Hamlet from Shooters Connection.

Tuned old style SV mags, schuemann barrel (with well polished ramp). They wouldn't feed at anything but one particular length, I think it was 1.161 or something. Even bullet to bullet variation would get me sometimes. The EGA have a profile similar to the RMR or Zeros. Very round nose/FMJ-esque. Agree to disagree with the rifle stuff. As far as pistol, no one is trying to tell you that the MGs are a bad bullet. More just that simply relying on the nationals equipment poll isn't probably the best way to go. Yes, a lot of people shoot them. A lot of people shoot WAC and 124s too, doesn't make them right.

Wow. This is quite the thread. Obviously I like Everglades, or I wouldn't shoot for them. I refuse to put my name on something I don't believe in, so take that for what you will. I personally think they have the best profile available in a JHP. They are also very competitively priced, especially in bulk (case price), and very very accurate. 115:http://www.evergladesammo.com/bullets/handgun-bullets/new-9mm-115gr-jhp.html 124:http://www.evergladesammo.com/bullets/handgun-bullets/9mm-124gr-jhp-rn-v2.html Before I switched to EGA, I was shooting PD JHPs. Also very nice bullets and a good price, however my gun at the time didn't like the sharp shoulder of them and I had constant feeding issues. I am very clearly in the minority with my gun not liking them, since so many people shoot them with fantastic success. They were always exceedingly accurate for me. Montana Gold are also very accurate, excellent quality bullets. I personally think they are too expensive compared to the other options on the market. When I first switched from coated to JHPs for open, I tested MG vs PD. They shot so similarly great out of my gun so as to not make a difference, so I went with PDs because of the substantial cost savings (I only later discovered the feeding issues, but again I think that must be rare). When I went searching for a new bullet, I found the Everglades and got a sample pack of them, and tested them against the PDs. They were ever so slightly more accurate, out of my gun, than the PDs. Enough to make a difference in a match? No, both are plenty accurate. The difference in feeding definitely makes a difference though to me. This is demonstrably not true (at least now), the Hornady ELD bullets kinda put that argument on its head... they have some of the highest BCs as well as some of the greatest accuracy you can buy, all while being significantly less expensive than the likes of Berger, Lapua, etc

I would assume they are similar, the limcat is probably softer because of the Hbar. That adds a significant amount of weight.

Don't use grease like slide glide on slides. The point of oil is to lubricate as well as keep your gun clean... liquid can wick some of the crap and crud out the ends of the gun. It runs out the back and down the beavertail, and out the muzzle end onto the comp or frame. Grease will feel awesome racking it at the safe table but once you have some rounds on it and haven't had time to clean in awhile, every bit of that crud is still in there. Go buy a quart of 5w30 (don't care if it is synthetic or not), and never buy oil ever again. You officially just bought a lifetime supply. You can buy needle droppers for a few dollars in the fly tying section of your sporting goods store or at a craft store. Put the oil in that and carry on.

Lots of guns run 100%. Just need to test it and make sure everything works a lot before trusting it in a match. Best way to go would be have a brand new gun built by a respectable builder, get some good tuned mags (whether they are MBX, Grams tuned, builder tuned, etc), and shoot a bullet with a good profile for feeding.

Oh and I forgot to add, the shadow 2 safeties are probably the most comfortable on the CMate in my opinion. So that would be a worthwhile upgrade.

I second the Grams mag tuning. Kneeling is really they only person I know of that hasn't had to have at least their big sticks tuned. They honestly just don't work very well, they are designed as 40 mags and the ribs don't go high enough up the tube to get consistent feeding. Beven will fix that for you, then they run 100%. One friend in particular gets 30+1 in his big sticks, which is awesome. I am pretty sure Kneeling is right about the Parrot.. same thing, different colors. I wouldn't pay a premium for it, since you are likely to put a different magwell and grips on it and everything anyway.

What was your draw on the 1.55? Cause 5 .09s in a row would be super sporty (1.08 draw)

6k+ depending on options. If you do steel grip, tungsten sleeve, turbo comp, etc you are looking at 6500+. *cough that's why the one in the classifieds is such a good deal cough*

What is your justification for wanting your brass so clean? Appearance does not equate to tighter groups. I would recommend cleaning in the ultrasonic then lubing and loading like normal. Either spray with isopropyl alcohol and rub on a towel or tumble in dry media for a short amount of time.

This isn't true, in my personal experience. Making GM can be done mostly at home with lots of dryfire and some regular live fire. It doesn't have to cost you $10k a year. If it did I certainly wouldn't be one. I also wouldn't go 38. The only advantage a 38 may have is in reliability because of the brass. But that is just because the only 38SC brass is made by Starline, so it is all the same headstamp. If you tuned your 9 gun to run a single specific headstamp it would be exactly the same. Not to mention that the 70%+ of your shooting that (should) happens on the practice range is cheaper because you don't have to buy brass. I have been shooting new 9 brass for majors this year, and range pickup for the rest of it. Even buying brand new brass for majors, I'm money ahead over a 38. That being said, if the goal is being a competitive GM, I would go with well built custom 2011s or possibly Czechmates, not some home brew thing. Why? Because it is going to be a major pain to make it work and WHEN (not if, when) it goes down, you are gonna be way up a creek. The inertia 2011s have in open division means that while there are other options that could be made to work, you are on your own if you choose one of them and something goes wrong. If your mags, gun, ammo, holster etc goes down and you can't fix it at a match and you shoot a 2011... you ask your squad and people will have stuff to help get you through.

The correct answer to "which thumbrest".... is none of them.

That would probably be the first place I checked too. This gun looks great, congratulations. You are doing awesome work here.

What kind of capacity are you getting with the welded up mag?

I try to start all stages the same except for strange exceptions. For me, that means a barney round from the back pouch then a 170 at the start. My friends make fun of me for it sometimes, especially on like a 6 round classifier, but it is all about mental preparation/rehearsal for the stage. Because of that I have never understood the concept of not dropping 170s.... They are just another magazine, and none of us bat an eye at dropping our other mags. That being said, I have never used a 155, nor do I think they are necessary. If you like them then great, you do you, but I don't see their utility in general. If the situation dictates it I can run 24 in my 140s for a reload, which gets me back up to 25 in the gun after the load. If it requires more than that, I can use a 170 at 28, though I don't personally like to. Those situations are very few and far between, in my experience. If I put 11 coil springs in my 140s I could probably even get another for 25 in them, but with the 13s I have never changed my springs in two full seasons (as opposed to every few months with a 170). I'm willing to trade an extra round for lower maintenance.

That Razorcat in the classifieds is a pretty sweet deal... has all the bells and whistles they offer. I've shot it, it is awesome.

Push yourself. But do it in dryfire, and get comfortable at that speed before you ever try it live.

I've never taken a class. I have reshot a number of classifiers in my day. I have no shame about it, and don't hide that fact if anyone asks.

As an RO: I much prefer to see an open and empty chamber, in a perfect world this would be slide held about halfway open. However, I know that it is the shooter's responsibility to ensure it is empty, so if they fly through their ULSC and it doesn't go bang, then all is fine and dandy in the world. I am not going to make someone draw again and show me an empty gun except in extreme circumstances. As a shooter: Flip and catch, a few aggressive racks of the slide, then I will wait with a half open slide until I get the "If clear" command to drop the hammer and holster up.

This

Based on the fact that the non-hybrid DVC trubor barrel is 450, I'm guessing at least that much

Sure, I've done it. Won a state championship doing it. Beat a few top 20 at nats production shooters in the process. Go really really fast and shoot good points. Do that consistently and you will win. It really isn't complicated.

It doesn't matter what division you shoot. You always should shoot as many alphas as possible as quickly as possible. If you aren't shooting 93+% of the points regardless of division you are doing it wrong.