Daft

Like the thread. Its easy to shoot too fast when the buzzer goes off.

I do believe a 20 kicks more than a 12. If you need chokes, then a 1301 with a short barrel.

It is hard work and I am getting older and I need to work out more.

I found an REI book bag in my closet and use that for pistol only. Google REI Acument Pack, 54.73 bucks

Thanks for above, I have a chrono coming in a few days. I shoot Glock g35, g34, thinking about a g40 for the sight radius and longer barrel. I have not shot IDPA, and I shoot action pistol and some 3gun modern. Still shoot cowboy, thus the avatar.

I know the 10mm is longer than the .40 so you can put more powder in it and get greater velocity with the same bullet. If I were to buy a 10 over a 40, I could still load the same recipe and get the same results, and I could load hotter if I wanted to. Other than the cost of brass and powder, are there other differences like feeding in an auto or something else that affects performance and reliability? Thanks in advance amigos

You can buy adjustable sights.

I would suggest a run. 5k. From HQ to the radiation place. $40 bucks you get a t shirt.

We use these cardboard targets with an A zone at the head and chest that takes 1. Its perforated and has A imprinted on it. I imagine different clubs use different cardboard targets. Normally it seems most just shoot two, but I saw a guy save a mag change and shoot all A zones.

The bullet drops too far into the case. At the end of the cycle is your OAL off?

Hmm. Assuming your OAL is okay I would start with loading without primer and powder but with bullet and go around and start tightening the crimping die a 1/4 turn and see if you can still move the bullet and then adjust a 1/4 at a time. After you are on the money, pull that bullet and see what looks like.

I only shoot cowboy, action pistol and 3gun. I'm trying to tune the loads and the springs for a Glock35 to both the reactive steel targets and the cardboard targets. for paper as long as the G35 fires the primer and cycles the ammo with min gr of powder I am a happy camper. For the reactive steel, I need momentum. I have played around and come up with using HP38/WIN231...180gr berry plated on 4.33 gr of powder for the paper and non reactive steel. Works with a 13lb recoil spring and 3pd striker spring. I can buy Sammy's reloads which are 180gr rnfp plated and commercial powder at 950 FPS for all the targets. They cycle ok with 13lb spring too. Any help is appreciated

Win231 and HP38 suck, don't buy them, I cannot find it anywhere.

I had some trouble feeding some plated reloads so I recrimped them with more authority. Yes, you could remove the bullet and there was a ring or indentation. Worried, I burn them up at the indoor range. These were light loads and they paper just fine. I think the problem feeding was not the case getting stuck up the ramp but the light recoil spring I put in it right after getting it.

Interesting. Would you download the timer into a file you could superimpose over the video?

At the local range there are reactive targets where the more momentum pushed out of the pistol helps spin the target. Thinking of of going to the 41 as its a 45acp and the barrel is 5.31" The fnx.45 had a 5.3 but I cannot get here in my state, and I already have the 34 and 35.

If want a 45acp then why not go with the 41?

Yes they are.. congratulations!

A dirtbike glove helps me.

The stage designs will put you in danger with rifle and slug steel on the same stage as pistol and birdshot steel that is at an unsafe distance to shoot with a rifle or slug. I hate it when I get a MDQ

With so many choices its hard to judge based on price and performance, but anything is better than the stock group

Yea, replace the trigger in the lower and go with a low mass bolt if you want to spend the $. A comp for sure.

Yea, support hand with lots of grip, strongside not as much because you want your trigger finger to be independent of the others.

No scope?

At the local range there a lot of spinners for action pistol and on 3gun there is at least one, penalty for not swinging being a lot. I figure the more momentum the better, and the .40 gives you more of that. Momentum equals mass time velocity and you can compare the 9 to the 40 with your powder and do the math. My son, the mechanical engineer said a lead bullet would be a little better than a plated bullet as it would deform more on contact. Not sure about that. But sort of like using heavier shot for a further distance on shotgun, or a heavier bullet on rifle, but the 40 will take a much heavier bullet than the 9mm. So, I guess its all about the local range.