pskys2

When you say left index finger on the trigger guard, you mean under it? or in front of it? I used to shoot a 1911 with finger in front of the trigger guard, but weaned myself off as my fingers just aren't that long. I find I can get faster splits with right thumb over left thumb as in a 1911. But, that grip tends to beat my thumb joint up more. I now try to curl the right thumb down and rest the left thumb over it. But, whatever works, feels good and allows suffecient practice is what you should do. Glad to see a new voice.

You might try Tom Kilhoffer at TK Custom (http://www.moonclips.com/). He once told me he had done some S&W pins, it was just a pain. Most of the time those pins are soldered in. S&W can replace them with an oversized Crowned Stud that doesn't require refinishing, but is then seen instead of being blended in. You may have to drill it out and have a new Stud pressed in like the S&W Crowned Stud. Either way you're probably looking at some expense and it may not look that good. May be better off getting a new one.

Now Bjorn, you shouldn't even notice what Jerry did until someone raps you on the head, or you finish the round and he's still shooting. Heck, when I'm having a good run I get so tunnel visioned I can't even see my own hands! But, it's easier said than done. I did notice on the 2nd run that you seemed to hesitate, I wondered if you hadn't peeked. Still a pretty impressive WS performance. Have to ask Mike Carmoney what he used to do to block out the others at 2nd chance. They'd have 20 or more, I think, tables going at one time and he made "Master Blaster" status. The thread drift is my fault, but the open guys were always faster on the reload not necessarily the first shot respectively (seemed to me) but both of your points are valid and do cover it. I hit a 1.8 reload at 10yds. w/A-C's in practice and I felt like it was flying, then I totally flubbed the rest of the day (trying too hard, no doubt). Heck if I get under 2 sec at any point I'm thrilled. My best on demand is something around 2.2+ sec, though. I do all my reload drills at 10 yards, some even at 15. Spook, you said you use a lot of grip tape so are we to assume you use wood grips. If so, what type? I have short fingers and an average sized palm, Jerry's grips fit pretty good. II never have had to worry about too much finger in the trigger, even with a 1911. Dave

I don't mind many divisions. As long as Match Directors have the ability to limit recognition to only those with a viable amount of competitors, who cares. L10 wasn't meant to be a SS division. It was a fear of the future division. Or maybe it should've been called the Left Coast Division, Liberal Division or whatever. The guys living in places that can't have more than 10 rounds, well MOVE Da**it, any government that won't trust it's civilians to own a d**n metal tube over a certain size doesn't deserve your trust, loyalty or **&&!!##$$%! Sorry folks pskys2 just exploded and it will take a while to reassemble the pieces.

Spook, I think the "Official Record" for Jerry was a 1.48? in a string of 12 rounds. What he's done in practice I don't know. Didn't you say you had a 1.2 last year, that's plain blazing, heck I think it takes longer for a moonclip to "Fall" to the ground! Looks like the difference between you and Jerry in the shoot offs was the different ways you two shot the plates. I've noticed that Jerry goes full auto (I think that term applies even to a Revolver when shot at that speed) even on plates, misses some but still makes it up. You looked like you were shooting a fast controlled squeeze, like we all try to teach ourselves. Maybe that spicy Cajun food does something for faaaaaaaast twitch muscle fibers! You need to get the DVD (especially since your in it several times), it is good. Speaking of fast the Open guys Reloads were consistently faster sub 1 second than the standard guys (fastest just over 1.1 seconds). Virtually the same guns (as far as reloads) so why the difference?

Talking of Reloading a Revolver, I have a copy of the last WS DVD by Saul Kirsch. It's very well put together and quite entertaining and educational. I timed Jerry Miculek's switch hand reloads against Bjorn Dietrich's same hand reloads during the shoot-offs and guess what, they came out the same (give or take a few thousands). They both flubbed a couple and each had 1 "Good" Reload of about 2.3 seconds. The same hand "Looks" faster, the switch hand "Looks" smoother (to me) but they both time out about the same. At least in my perception. Ideally we should learn to use both and let the course decide which to use so we don't get close to the 180. Our local club set up an imitation of the Double Tap course where you were handcuffed around a pole. I used the same hand reload technique with no problems, and it felt real natural. But, I usually use the switch hand reload in a course, it just seems more natural. Dave

I've tried about everything. I currently use the Miculek grips with Skateboard Tape on the sides, 2/3 way up the weak side and 1/2 up on the strong side. If I don't use grip tape, I seem to notice the gun torques a bit more than I like, but it could all be in my head, I've always liked "Sticky" grips, the checkering on my 1911's always were razor sharp. The bad thing about Miculek grips is they bang my thumb joint after a lot of shooting, I've been left bleeding at the end of a long practice session. I've tried the rubber Hogues, with and without the finger grooves and "Reshaped" to my hand, and they are much easier on the hand and "Stickier" in recoil, but Jerry's point about shifting the gun is valid. The grip you get is the one you will use. I settled on the Miculeks with tape as a compromise. I do like the way they handle under recoil (with tape) and reload (I usually switch hands) and I'm just trying to get a good hard callus at my thumb. If you don't use the switch hand reload consistenly then the Hogues may be best, IF you can teach yourself to get a "Good" grip before you draw. I don't think either reload technique is faster and I do train with both. If you do reload by switching the gun to your weak hand, then you will be best served with Miculek type grips. I think in the end it's what you like and practice with. Dave

Don't really like Moly Bullets or Titegroup in a 625, but try it. Here are loads I've used. Precision 230 LRN 1.210 oal 4.3 Titegroup F150 gave 738 f/s in a 5"625. Precision 230 LRN 1.210 oal 4.6 Bullseye F150 gave 768 f/s in a 5"625. Both loads were very accurate. Good Luck

SRT, Sweeeeet. Does it take a Government 5" Recoil Spring or a 6"? Brings back memories of the "Good 'ol Days". Well, maybe not Good but FUN!

Contact TK Custom, Tom is great working with us shooters. He has a bang up website and sells about everything associated with Moon Clips. I had a M29-3 done by Clark and it works great with .44 Russians, Specials and even Magnums, it only cost about $75 for the actual Moon Clip Cuts. Actually used it for a couple of years in IPSC.

MERRY CHRISTMAS and a Happy NEW YEAR TO ALL!!! May your dreams be filled with visions of "Aced" Swingers and blazing runs. And may all be surrounded in the warmth and contentment of your Loved Ones in the coming year.

Picked up my "M" Card in Open with a SS Comped .38 Super w/Bomars in the early '90's, about the time the Dots became the norm, tried the Dots and shot worse. Then when Limited opened up, shot it with a .45 SS 1911 and 10 Rd. Mags. Now, Locally I compete occassionally in L10 with my Revolver, as there's no local interest in Revolver, and unless there's a classifier kind of hate doing it alone. Usually finish in the top few, even picked up a HOA in L10 (out of 8 USPSA Classed B,C,D competitors) a few months ago. It's much more fun competing against like "Capacity" Pistols though. But, I'll compete until I quit having fun.

Mr. Sweeney you make a lot of sense. Started in 1979 myself, seen the growth, stagnation and rebound that happened. I say leave things as they are. If SSD grows, then add it in. The split of Open and Limited was necessary. Limited 10 was a hedge against the clintonistas. Production started slow, but was a good idea. Revolver is necessary, there is just no way to equitably classify the Revolver Competitor within any other Division. Many matches state a Division won't be recognized if there aren't a specific number, and that is the way to handle it. Nobody should expect an award if they are the only competitor, but it has happened and it is usually an empty award. There is a growing interest in Revolvers and that is only good for all of us. There is a healthy interest in Production, great. It never bothered me to use my SS against a DS in Ltd 10. Heck I used it in Limited when it first started up. The recent financial statement for USPSA looks really good, let's not start getting narrow minded now, let as many play in equitable/like equipped Divisions as they can. If it starts actually dragging the organization down, it can be revisited. Stats are being done universally on computers now, the number of Divisions shouldn't have any effect. Just my .02.

Been to Berry 3 times in the late '80's early '90's. Shot a .45 Sprngfield w/Accu Comp II, .38 Super Jet Comp on the Same Frame w/iron sights, then the same pistol w/PDP-2. Never did like the "Dot's", though. Would love to go and shoot a Revolver, just have a hard time getting away from the Farm/Home for a whole week. But, then I've been lavishing the better half with expensive Sewing/Embroidery Machines, Bernina's cost as much as an "Expensive" Limited Gun!

I'm on my 2nd set of Dillon Muffs in 6 years, I abuse them somewhat. Dillon sold me the 2nd set at reduced cost with return of the old ones. I have a set of Pro Ears I use for practice, they seem to switch on when in my bag jostling around. So I use them for practice, since I'll be checking them more often. I keep the Dillons in my Match Bag. Actually the best set I had were called "Wolf Ears" I think. Got them in 1988 at a reduced cost as part of a Sponsorship Package for a big Money Match. I think the total order was somewhere around 30+ Ear Muffs at under $100. They finally gave out in 2004. Pretty good, I'd say, unfortunately they don't make them anymore.

Any chance of reduced fee for shooting both? Mark me down for the Revo side though, Be interesting to see some of the auto Hot Dogs switching, hope they do. Maybe you should contact S&W, Ruger or Taurus and try to get a Revo to give away by drawing. Maybe an RLee certificate (or a full blown Match Gun, "droooooooool"). Either way it sounds like a blast. Dave

Thanks guys. Mike your "Info Network" is pretty amazing, you knew before me! Now if I could shoot "that" fast, I might have a chance against you. My guess is there will be another 3 or 4 Revo Masters in the near future, next year at least. Good luck to all. Reading Saul Kirch's latest book (it's the best I've read in years) so I'm positive there's "A Boom in Revolver Division coming". "Let the good times ROLL with our scores!" Hope to see you all at a match soon, gotta go practice now, BRRRRRRRRR! it's cold out there, maybe I'll rest on my laurels, get all nice and warm and fuzzy. HA!HA!HA! Dave

OH MAN! You're going to create MAJOR anxiety in this forum! You must do extensive test firing until you find the problem, or maybe buy stock in Prozac, Ha!Ha! Have you checked your headspace and B/C Gap? If there were some Stainless Shims inside the cylinder they could have fallen out on cleaning. Have your primers been exposed to anything that could deactivate them? Buy a new Strain Screw and install it seated all the way down so it will increase your pull. You mentioned a Randy Lee Hammer, did he do the Action? Check that the Strain Screw is screwed ALL the way in. I've found strain screws backed out and loc-tite'd. I cut a new one down so it stays bottomed out, then I don't loc-tite it, just check it frequently. Find someone who has a stock 45 revolver and/or auto and see if they fire. You must get back with us and give a full report. Ship a flat to me if you wish and I'll test them, thoroughly!! Dave

Universal Clays needs to be at top pressures in a .45 or it leaves unburnt powder and gives erratic velocities. Titegroup in a .45 works real good, as long as it's not in a Stainless Revolver. It gets hotter, quicker than clays but it's actually a bit more accurate than clays. Here's some Titegroup loads I've used for a .45 1911: all had 469" Taper Crimp Bullet Primer Load Velocity OAL 200 Precision SWC F150 4.6 Tite 824 f/s 1.250" 230 Precision LRN F150 4.4 Tite 743 f/s 1.210" 230 WW FMJ F150 4.5 Tite 732 f/s 1.240" 230 Ranier RN F150 4.5 Tite 769 f/s 1.245" 230 MGold CMJ F150 4.3 Tite 721 f/s 1.210" Never seen any pressure signs, all loads are super accurate in an "Old" Accurized 1911. I'd have no problems with using Titegroup, but it gives me fits in a 625 (cakes up on the recoil shield and drags on the action).

Randy, is this new FO FS going to fit the Classic "pop-in" sight bases? If so put me down for 2!! And I thought there was no Santa! Dave Williams P.S. be sure to post in the Revo Forum when you're ready to ship/sell. And how about selling some of those "The DINGO ate my REVO'Smith" T-shirts?

Carmoney, you're incorrigible, I was all set for some fantastic ZEN insight. Instead choked on my breakfast. The biggest thing isn't the same as the "turning point". But, for me it was deciding to accept compliments of a stage run with a "Thank You", instead of feeling embarrassed or trying to make light of it. It was the key point in WORKING on my Mental Game. Which is where all matches are won. There are a hundred ways to lose, but only one way to win and it's all mental.

Cuz, I freaked too when I had an Action Job done by Clark and they removed the Block. Now I know it's pretty common, but they should always send it back with the pistol. If YOU use it for only Competition do what you feel comfortable with. If you use it for Hunting, Defense, Plinking, have kids using them, are dexterously challenged and drop things alot or anything else, might consider leaving it in. It also will depend on the Weight and/or Quality of your Action Job. Good Luck

Normal with the Round Butt, the Square Butt's have sharp edges at the front around the Strain Screw (but at least you can access it without removing the grips). I usually take a small file and round the edges off. Like 'em smooth as Major Loads can cause irritation.

Make sure the plunger with the smaller "stepped" end contacts the slide stop, the other plunger that contacts the safety should be of one dimension (except for the end that fits into the spring which is usually more like a button). Then check your plunger tube, it should have NO movement in it. It sounds like you have a loose plunger tube. If it is loose you can buy a staking tool from Brownells that is pretty easy to use, or send it back to Springfield. Plunger Tubes can loosen from use, but it should take many 10's of thousands of rounds. Usually when they loosen it is because they were never tight in the first place.

After re-reading the original post, for some reason I thought it was a 625 problem instead of a 25-2, My original info still stands, but as I said I don't notice the same problem with my M29. But, I haven't shot "That" much Titegroup in it as in the 625. 10mmdave how is the Gas Ring? Is there excessive slop at the front of the cylinder? I actually had to have S&W change the one on my m29, it was so worn it was kind of scary. Or is there a burr on it? So that the cylinder drags on the Crane? It's rare to wear one out with lead, but if you've had a LOT of High Pressure Pin type loads in a .45 it could wear excessively. Or if you kept dropping it into sand and not cleaning it, ha! ha! I have a m28 that acts kind of like your 25-2 with lead bullets, it's just too tight and since I never shoot it (except at coyotes w/jacketed hunting loads) I haven't bought a Crane Reamer Tool yet (the problem is lead gets blown in and there is "NO" clearance to work with). You might try a different Bullet Maker, some are too soft. I tried some 44 specials in the m29 when I first got it (Justice Brand I think) and it had a Moly looking bullet that was just horrible. The bore looked like a shotgun after only 6 rounds. How is your timing? Do all Cylinders lock up before DA letoff? Seems the price of Jacketed/Plated Bullets isn't that much more than lead anymore, unless you live in Iowa next to a couple of Casting outfits.