rowdyb

reprofile your Glock extractor's hook.

I did a grip reduction on my Eagle and then a silicon carbide job, it was very grippy and a better profile. I second the 9/10 recoil and 17/18 main springs. Mine was in .40 and I had trouble getting mags and slide lock to work in a combo that would also fit the box. The sights on mine were switched as well. Accurate gun.

majority grass over sand. very little gravel. very little hard pack.

with 147's at the same, 130, power factor I tried 11, 10 and 9 pounds. I am back at 11.

I'd much much rather keep division and kill classification. Completely. Overall within your division and nothing else. I'm also a mean troll/ogre and would do away with all category stuff as well. Probably why I'm not in charge....

I keep saying it over and over again. Open Major. Open minor. Limited major. Limited 10 minor. Only 4 divisions needed.

And that's why we love you.

Wasn't meant to sound like I was playing off you or arguing with you. It was a separate post unto itself. And yes I got what you meant for sure. (Your club just needs to abandon paper scoring)

People seem to more often say with a smile, "boy that made me think", rather than "boy that made me aim!" hahahaha I personally give zero thought to each divisions supposed plusses or minuses over another division when designing or building local stages. If I build a legal, well designed stage then the shooter's division has no bearing on if it is good or not.

How'd you get 0.50 of an ounce out of your DPP? That's what I wanna know.

well, if breaking or marring the coating from 'crimp' matters to accuracy then I have to imagine the coating at the base does as well. i mean, any imperfection in how the bullet obdurates with the lands and grooves is going to cause an issue right? i was under the impression that the coatings stayed intact through the whole sequence of firing.....

Mine will be living in various hotels and rental cars that same trip, I know how you feel. I shoot all day Friday so I am doing the tourist thing in Philly all day Saturday with family in the area. We're going to all the Independence Hall stuff, Reading Station and the Mutter Museum.

based on the picture, you're still removing too much of the case mouth belling. I try not to go by a number but rather funtion and observation. The setting I decide to use is one where when I pull a bullet there is no line and all in the coating. None. And then as long as it also case gauges or plunks in the barrel I am done. as far as the base of your bullet i have two questions. are you using an undersize die to size and deprime your cases? are you using a lee factory crimp die? if so, i would try removing either from usage. and then more remotely, if you are seating bullets when they aren't very concentric or centered on the case mouth you could be damaging the coating then as well. i know it is unpopular to say it, but one reason why i use coated bullets then quit them. and then use them again and quit them and repeat the cycle is just because of things like this. they have in my experience, regardless of brand, been just a little more finicky in the press and my reloading operations. just not very tolerant. whereas plated or even better jacketed allow me tons of leeway and present few recurring issues. so, it's a battle between price and attention to set up. only you can choose.

My stock slide assembly weighs 18.4 ounces. My CO complete slide assembly weighs 16.2 ounces. So in my case my CO slide is already much lighter than the stock one.... I also agree that if you wanted to run the 18 round, plastic basepad, SP01 magazines it would also be much easier to make weight. Personally, no way am I giving up the chance to run 5 more rounds.

I was right though, that simply that slide cut for the optic wouldn't be enough. CZC removes more weight from two other places in the slide to get you even close and you're still juggling grips, base pads and maybe guide rod.

CJ Maven LLC did my slide cut, but to use the CZC RDS plate system. I am using a Vortex 6moa sight. 44.30z.

The ammo I make. 145gr Acme round nose. 3.2 of Sport Pistol. I routinely come in at 129-133 pf at matches and it's 130 pf on my personal chrono. Someone asked me the super popular question, "What do I have to do?" if they bought a Shadow 2 and wanted to compete. My answer was this: Optional, a thinner front sight and grips. These are all personal preference items. Should do, reduced power firing pin spring. Polish the bevel at the bottom of the firing pin stop plate. Stone cartridge rail smooth. Use 11 pound recoil spring as a starting point. Polish sides of trigger bar. Polish appropriate parts of sear and cage. Polish sides of hammer where it contacts frame. Make hammer spring strut smooth, removing the sharp edges from stamping and then polish it. Start with an 11 pound recoil spring if you reload and run appropriate primers. Install your choice of disconnector and fit it properly. Polish disco where needed. So sights, $40. Grips $70-130. Disco $40. Three springs, recoil, fp and hammer are $30. So around $200 and a few hours of your time get you a great gun!

The few times I was left with a decision on what to shoot at a local match I made up my mind by 1. Which gun do I need to improve with the most. Pick it. 2. Are any of my friends, squadmates or competition shooting one of the divisions I'm considering? Then pick it. 3. Finally, do I have a major match coming up in the next three weeks? Only shoot that division. I actually like not having to make that decision as I sold a lot of guns for other divisions. I'm down to pcc, co and prod guns. That's it.

You can't compare ounce to ounce the weight of a 2011 slide to the weight of a TS/0 slide. They don't weigh the same to start with so it's not a good direct comparison. Also, how well you grip the frame, your recoil spring and amount of visual acuity you have all determine how quickly you see the sights after a shot a far far greater degree than bullet weight.

I had a very specific issue, so don't be scared. With the gun empty and the slide locked back is the only place this was an issue. So with the pistol in that condition, without a basepad that would meet the frame, I could slam a mag home it would go past the mag catch and prevent the reload from happening and locking the slide in place. My issue was solely with doing slide lock reloads.

I really love the idea of just having only 3 lengths. Color coded. Pre assembled but yet modular to replace parts. That can be threaded through whatever cable routing system you use without disassembly. Heck if you really needed longer just clip a couple together. I'd pick 7, 10 and 15 yards as my stock lengths. Spray paint the middle length green, yellow and red.

I've also seen a ring welded on the end of a spike and the cable ran throught the ring. You just hammer the spike in where needed to make the turns and slack work out.

Yes, I'm still running the Henning base pads for my Shadow 2 in USPSA.

clubs near me just use the little u-bolt clamps and keep reswaging a long bit of cable to make it work. when i build stages in a bay just for myself i just use light nylon cord, like 550/para cord. makes it easy to tie it off to the right lenght and no worries about weight.

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