CrashDodson

One shot says to let it dry for one minute. Its just a dry lube in an alcohol suspension. It says it will not contaminate primer or powder. I lube the crap out of my .40 cases inside and out. get a 1 gallon ziplock half full of brass, give it a good spray and mix. I do that 3 or so times. Let it dry and dump it in the feeder. The press runs so much better. I wet tumble in the FART. I was using the pins but they are a pain to deal with after. I stopped using the pins and the brass comes out just as clean it seems. To me wet tumbling is better because I dont have to deal with the dust. Its so much easier to dump the water down the drain then to run the brass through a media separator and create a bunch of dust. All of you that dry tumble should have your blood lead checked. I have a separate wash basin in my garage that I use, I dont use the kitchen sink. I have found no noticeable difference in performance and press operation of brass that is cleaned after being decapped. If I had a separate automated press just to process brass I probably would, but I am not going to setup a dedicated tool head for the 1050 just to decap.

as long as the barrel isnt coated in something tougher than the reamer thats the way I would go. Those reamers will not cut through TIN and some other coatings.

Would help to know what division your loading for. In .40 major coated makes sense. Less powder for a charge thats nearing pressure maxes anyway. As accurate as one needs to be in USPSA. If your practicing and shooting a lot the price does make a big difference. Less per bullet...little less powder means I can shoot more. I shoot coated for everything from dot drills to area matches. .9 minor coated is great also. If your shooting an open gun thats when coated is probably not for you.

what barrel is it? I have had similar issues where blue bullets that are sized .400 and have a different profile then most all other bullets chamber in almost everything, other .401 bullets with different profiles are hit or miss. Especially in "AET" barrels. I dropped my AOL from 1.22 to 1.19 and have had much better luck and better feeding reliability. 1.19 feeds better out of the mags for me then 1.22.

Patience grass hopper. Stoegers new dry fire book has a new drill that is perfect for the issue you are having. I have this problem too, especially on steel targets. You just have to learn to get your sight picture, press the trigger straight, call a good shot and then move on. It feels slow but it is faster then makeups and earns more points than mikes.

I think we are just supposed to guess where he lives amongst our 268,597 square miles.

Mine is still working. After two weeks of par timer use I still have not had to charge it. I dont find the size to be a problem. I like the options to change the speaker volume and tone. The speaker is about half again as big as the first model. I can take a picture of them side by side.

The anderson 6 reload weak is a good drill. Just make sure you do it at the range sometimes because the recoil with WHO will slow you down vs dry fire. The sight picture and trigger press would be the same. I have only ever seen it in classifiers so far. Occasionally SHO while holding something dumb in the weak hand.

1050. Mixed headstamp brass. .40 180. .401 1.19 oal. bayou bullet. 4.6 grains ramshot competition. Infinity hybrid sight tracker barrel.

Hot glue gun http://www.michaels.com/adhesives/glue-guns-and-sticks/809188654 Its for crafts and stuff.

I havent been shooting or reloading long. Maybe 20k .40 rounds. Today i had the rim of a case blow off. It sounded like a squib. Almost a hissing sound. Hot powder hit me in the face. I was able to remove the remainder of the case with needle nose. These were practice rounds and not case gauged. It was all "once fired" brass purchased from dealers. Is this something i should have been able to catch or just one of those things that happens?

If they had a solid solution for 2011's or 2011 airsoft guns I would be interested. Right now the only thing is the spyder vibration detection laser for a rail mount on an airsoft gun. I dont see that as being reliable.

Im working on having a custom spread sheet in google docs created to track training as well as import results from practiscore data. Its going to cost me a few hundred bucks to have developed as I dont have the time to mess with it. Once finished I could offer it to others for a low price just to recoup my cost. I like google docs because it can be accessed anywhere with internet. And to me it beats dragging around notebooks that I tend to lose or my daughter uses to draw me pictures of dinosaurs.

Shakeweight > Tai Chi had me laughing out loud.

I would try installing chrome on your macbook? You could just rename the .html file to .txt and see if that works also.

I tested that this morning and if I faced the watch face in towards me/gun I could pick up one out of two hammer falls or so. This was on a light trigger 2011.

Ive honestly not tested that. Just been using it as a par timer. I can try in the morning.

I have the new version 2. Had a horrible experience with the version 1. When I got my V2 there was no new firmware for it. I charged it over night and the battery still registered 50% the next morning. I thought for F%$# sake this thing is going to be just like the last. They released new firmware and I upgraded earlier this week. I have used it for 4 days in dry fire and have no issues so far. The battery still shows 100% (since the upgrade). From what I understand it will show 100/75/50/25 so time will tell. Some people online have commented about the size of the speaker, its a damn shot timer and not a fashion statement. For dry fire it is very conveniently right on your wrist. Shooting in doors the motion activated option is pretty cool. The speaker is loud and has 3 different tones and 10 different volume settings. So far I am happy but will report back if that changes.

^^^ This too. If you know the rules and are safe go have fun.

^^^

I use cases with bullets and no primer like others have stated. If you are really pushing reload times I have found these bullets (coated) get smashed to hell and dont have a coating for long. I recently picked up a couple of dummy rounds from benstoegerproshop that have orange plastic pieces instead of bullets. I use one on the top of each mag and they seem like they are going to hold up better to abuse.

For dry fire you just use par times. Its not exact of course but better than guessing. There are many par timer apps you can install on your phone if you dont want to mess with or buy a real timer.

cardboard targets are almost $1 a piece after shipping. USPSA gets a cut of even local matches. At a local USPSA match with 1 classifer and 40 shooters USPSA gets a little more then 100 bucks.

Just had a DAA thumb rest installed on this one.

Welcome to the sport! Just to add to what others have said. Do everything as aggressively and purposefully as you can do safely. You can see over the different stages how you loosened up and started moving better near the last few stages. I can still remember how nervous I was my first few matches, that will go away with time. Lead with your eyes when transitioning. Snap the head/eyes to next target and snap the gun to that same spot. On your turn and draw snap that head around to the first target and the body/gun will follow. These things can all be safely practiced in dry fire and you will see rapid improvement. Have fun!