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Is this running glock mags? My ammo runs 1.15, and it will rip them just fine when stuffed with 33. Standard spring and carbine buffer, the hydraulic blietz buffer works too. Try single round and see if it locks back, if not cut coils till it does.

Thanks

Why did use such thick wall tubing? Was it to get the 0.584 ID? Did you run the tube all the way to the barrel extension? pics?

What barrel length was that?

Just bought a guard and barrel is too heavy 3/4" to the muzzle. So how thin/small can I cut it without problems? Don't want shorten it

Do any of these sites have same technology of the EOTECH? All others I've looked at required you to look through the center axis. Only EOTECH allows terrible head position. Cover 2/3 of the front glass and see if you still the reticle center.

The bolt lugs will wear in so I wouldn't start cutting coils off till broken in. Then I'll buy a flat wire spring and cut till my bolt lock starts to work. Also running a hyd buffer

Many drop in triggers have hammers that are too short and don't come to rest on the bolt above the firing pin. On the NFA bolt there is very little material below the firing pin and the hammers will tear this area up. Check the length of your drop in next to a standard trigger. Rock Rivers and Geissle are too short. Resting on the firing pin contributes to short firing pin life. The Jard are long but I don't know if all the adjustment screws will stay in place. Using on now. Will see.

First observation, most carbine length buffers suck. The worst are the solid ones. Then make the gun feel lousy and make gun bounce worse. Most 9mm bolts are fairly heavy dictated by the nature of blow back. But the space available makes them still too light in AR. So everybody puts a heavy buffer in. Problem also that carbine buffer doesn't leave enough room for the buffer to work like the ones in a rifle. A Rifle buffer is made of light metal, with heavy weights inside that have lots of room to move. Movement is the key what I call decoupling of reciprocating weight. When a bolt is closing the weights help with bolt bounce, but they do something else more important. In a 9mm the bolt doesn’t have the floating rotating bolt carrier design to prolong an eat up energy rotating/locking the bolt. It is just two pieces of metal slamming into each other, thus the forward down pitch of 9mm’s which cause dot bounce. Solid buffers make this worse. More weight stopping quickly/abruptly. So back to the rifle buffer, as the bolt is closing driven by the recoil spring when it finally comes to a stop. The amount of weight that stops is not the total weight of the buffer, bolt/carrier, and spring. The weights inside the buffer are still moving forward and thus do not contribute to momentum that is converted into felt energy. Eventually they will finally stop, and contribute to the total energy but the time delay greatly reduces the felt impact. So they stop bounce by reducing the effective weight and then delivering delayed impacts to counter the bounce. Upon firing the weights are forward and contribute to the total mass of the inertia needed to be overcome to cause bolt rearward movement. So the 9mm carbine needs the same things in spades. So with help of my friends we have developed a 9mm buffer that maximizes the decoupling of reciprocating weight to mostly eliminate closing bolt bounce. Reduce bolt velocity by coupling the weight on bolt open and having total weight of 7.5 oz, decoupled weight of 6.2 OZ and length of 4.125” to reduce bolt travel and further limit bolt speed. Still recommend slightly heavier bolt spring. The combination drops the empty’s cases about eight feet out for both heavy and light loads. First iteration I used hard nylon for rear bumper, too hard, so some soft polyurethane ones are on the way. So lets hear the comments about my bolt buffer operation

Problem isn't a short chamber it is a short freebore/lead, drop a round in the barrel it should stop on case and spin freely if not, you bullet is hitting the rifling, Use a Clymer 9mm reamer it has a long lead freebore, careful to use a reamer stop you don't want to cut the chamber deeper.

Ran into the same problem with the NFA barrels, don't know who makes them, Faxon said they didn't. Virtually no freebore/lead in the chamber cut. The Clymer finish reamer has nice long lead/freebore. Talked to both manufactures and then seemed totally unaware. When I asked for the specs of their reamer, they just said we use a production PTG pacific tool Gage. PTG show no specs on their web page. I agree want to use same bullets and overall length as loaded in the pistol

I wanted to put a short stock on my 11-87. I bought a short plastic one that said it would work for 870 1100 and 1187. Wrong on my 11-87 the recoil tube stuck out about inch, so return that. Then I found a article that said 870 butt stocks new and old could be made to fit on a 11-87. Old models used a short bolt new models long bolt. So decide to try shortening a 870 wood stock. They were going for pretty high prices on Ebay around $50-65 used. Finally I found one that had peeling varnish, few dings, and they were not sure what it fit. From the pics I could tell it was very old 870 with plastic butt plate. Stripped then cut it about 1/8" longer than the recoil tube. Bought a new style hold down nut and washer from Brownells that let me get it about 3/8" shorter. You need to make a filler plug. one inch diameter, 5/8" hole and about 2.25 long, then the hold down nut will tighten right up. I drilled a hole in a piece of 2X4 then centered up on the hole and cut it 1 inch square and sanded off the corners. Used the recoil pad off the old plastic stock, black spray paint. Ended up 1.5 inches shorter and a better angle on the buttpad, total about $36.00. Comes up much quicker.

Don't forget the recoil spring, you need a reverse plug and need to cut the slide to fit it.

My experiment was with 9mm, I started with a 6 inch barrel, put three ports into it about 1/2 inch from end of barrel. By the time I got the ports large enough to work, the accuracy was lost, cut the barrel and installed a comp, works great and had to lower the recoil spring by 2 pounds. So forget ports

Grind on the barrel feed ramps, get an M4 ramped barrel to copy, or buy a upper without the M$ ramps

Just went through the same thing. First do like the guy said about remove the slide install the slide lock pin and see if the follower clears the slide lock. Found I had to put one of those little sanding drums on my dremel tool and take a little off the side and little off the bottom. However that didn't do enough. The mags need a little tuning. Check to make sure the top of mag rails are .350 to .355 apart also the section in front of the mags where nose of the follower comes up will usually need a little bending in. The two curved sections which is up in the bullet area need to be brought in till about 0.60 away from sides. That will keep the nose of follower down and then will work fine.

I used a two flute ball end carbide end mill, and filled the barrel with cerrosafe. the stuff they use to cast chambers melts at 190 F and is tougher than lead. Barrel showed no burrs at all. When done warm barrel and comes right out.

If your shooting iron sights flat top slides I find they point shoot faster for close targets, the ones I don't bother using the sights on.

In the last Episode of Hot Shots, I believe he set a world record on a steel challenge stage.

Just had a customer get in a new STI Steel master in 9mm. For a $3500.00 gun it was very disappointing. Besides the fact that the sear would hang up on the all casting burrs and render the gun useless. Seems every part except for the barrel, slide and firing pin was MIM with no signs of human fitting. Cone barrel was loose in the slide, same with the hood, not crazy loose but loose enough to rattle. The sear would get hung up in the frame because of the burrs left on the MIM parts. Back of disconnector looked like you scrapped it on rocks. Sear was too wide and had burrs that caught on the burrs on the frame, which now seems to be MIMed also. Other than the feed ramp it showed no signs of any hand fitting just assembled out of parts. Must be very good profit margin in that gun using all those chocolate parts.

http://research.microsoft.com/en-us/projects/gadgeteer/default.aspx Here is the link to the latest version running. Unless you have a large internet pipe, click on the "HD" on the bottom right and you will get the low res version. vimeo.com/63033017 password is mover

The Arduino uses various ARMS, and is the most popular but you've got to program in Linux, which I don't run. However the one I'm going to try for various reasons is the Microsoft supported one. http://research.microsoft.com/en-us/projects/gadgeteer/default.aspx The logic is that I can use a Windows 8 machine and visual studio and program for Window8 tablet, phone, Gadget, all with same code. So I like to use WiFi from a phone or Tablet to run the Gadget. You don't need two phones, the WiFi, works in both directions. Plus I'm trying to find out if Microsoft can stay relavent?

When I looked at options that IORelay offered, number of relays, inputs, timers, rotations, the ability for upgrades. It seemed to provide the best value at the time, I'm considering later to upgrade to ARM processor to allow remote control via smart phone app. Most the PLC seemed limit on inputs without a lot of expansion. I'm sure there are lots of ways to do it. Big thing now is to see if shooting at a mover will be a hit with the shooters.

Yours is actually more complicated than mine as far as the motor controller part. Very nice I used a http://www.dartcontr...ols/130-series/ Dc controller and a Relay board http://www.controlan...OR_RELAY_SERIES PC power supply . The purpose of the hit detector is I wanted automated self resetting, system that could be shot by rifle at any distance. Thus no steel. Controller looks like something out of 50's science project.

I'm using a 90 volt Dc motor with Dart 130LC100 variable speed fast reversing dynamic brake control, which hooks to a SPDT switch for direction and stop, a 5K rheostat for speed. The control I'm using consists of 8 relays that can be programmed, So I Switch in and out different rheostat for multiple speeds, and two more relays control on and off and direction. The activators can be a simple switch closure or the shot sensors with latch circuit I described in first post. I use extension cords, to the activators. Everything is wired to run off plain three wire extension cords. That way if the get shot easy to replace or just splice together they only have 5Volts DC in them. I exploring using the Arduino wireless transmitter and recievers to a make a wireless shock detector run them off 9Volt battery. Just have to figure out how tune them to different frequencies so I can multiple sensors. The controller board can handle 8 inputs, and they can be set to react to different voltagle levels. Next version maybe wireless control via smart phone app.