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Yep, this thing will get used in IPSC match's but my first test will be a long range rifle shoot. Not too long, you'll start at 100 yards shoot the first activator white, about 2 seconds later the mover will come out and cover a 44foot long run moving about 2.75mph, it will pause about 1 second behind cover and then return same distant and speed. You will move up to 66 yards, and shoot the yellow activator, this time it will be moving about 3mph, third run will be from 33 yards the green activator and it will be moving about 3.75mph. You then go forward remove your target put up an new and next shooter will start. I can set the speeds to anything I want, even start and stop, do a shuffle whatever I program it to do. Right now the controller is limited to three starts and three programs. I got this idea from two episodes, first was a TV show where bunch of guys were hunting hogs in Texas, they got to about 75 yards from 10 to 15 pigs in field, they went prone on bipods three of them, after all the shooting and running was over only one dead pig. Next insite was my 87 year mother, who used to be a great off hand shot at moving targets. As girl she had to shoot the varmint out of the vegetable garden and fox's out of chicken coup. She said it got too easy shooting standing targets, so she would whistle first and take them on the run! She said it was tough shooting crows on the fly with the 22lr. When she saw IPSC shooting she said you guys are fast but can you hit a moving target, who going to stand still in real world! So I want to learn to track and fire. My Dad used to take her to county fairs and she always came back with the biggest stuffed animals, and the men she beat had to buy the beers.

Below you will see an early version of the reuseable activation target. Near the bottom you'll see a silver 2"X4" handy box clamped to the target upright, the orginal circuit which can be seen on the circuit board photo's {blue section, now disabled} used a car style vibration sensor. It did not work with high speed ammo namely 223. So I then purchase the sensor and strap setup you see plugged into the 2X4 Handy box in the first post pics. This is just a piezo speaker. The target, stand, sensor all come from LE Targets found in the Plastic Target section. However I still needed a latching circuit to be able to turn things on. Maybe a relay, or my case the input of a "IORelay.com" Activator relay board. It is programmable and controls the DC motor controller on my moving target. So the circuit is a latch and the RC values control how long it stays latched, my values latch the circuit on a pulse for the Piezo at 5 seconds. The real trick of the circuit is to tune it so that it doesn't react to low frequency's. So my research into piezo circuits I found that a resistor across the output forms a RC circuit. The circuit I copied used 10MOhm across the piezo which made its -3db rolloff point down around 33Hz. I wanted to move it up to around 1000Hz. I found a sample circuit tuned for 1000Hz for a car knock sensor it showed a 200K resistor. So then I researched flexible piezo strips and found some manufactor data on how to tune the piezo. So I built another version with a 6 position switch that selected a variety of values to find a good one. For this particular piezo speaker a 100K did what I wanted. However it was still too sensitive. Since the input to a cmos circuit is almost infinity a simply pot in line wouldn't work, so I built a voltage bridge between the 2.2 Mohm resistor in series with the input and series of resistor switchable as the schematic shows. This allows you to tune in so that sensor won't react to nearby target strikes. Although it doesn't seem right the slow speed ammo delivers more energy to the target then the rifle speed ammo does. So now I can adjust it so that 100yards or 30 yards shots don't activate another target as close as three feet. The sensor will work when strapped to a standard IPSC target wood upright, and will work until the target is too shot up. I hope this explains it better, we are going to be filiming a match shortly I'll post the video.

It took 9 versions to get to this point. First was tuning the roll-off point of the piezo circuit to hear bullet strikes not just thumps. Turns out bullet strikes fall in the 500HZ to 900HZ, got this info from a military research project on a bullet proof vest that could detect a hit and its location and upload that data, so a downed soldier could be found. Next was adjusting the sensitivity so that strikes to adjacent targets didn't give false outputs, and to adjust for distinct differences velocity makes on target strikes. Turns out low velocity strikes are very easy to detect, strikes over 2000 ft/sec are more diffcult to detect. The targets, and sensor is from LE targets, however the part nos of the piezo sensor is listed and can be bought for $0.50 and it will work on wooden stake uprights, and also if attached to steel. In my case I built a programmable moving target with three different inputs that will run three different movement patterns. The purpose of the plastic start targets is so that you do not have to walk down range until want to score the moving targets hits. So I'll attach photo's and circuit diagrams. If you have any question email me at INFO@TECD.US

I posted the schematics of a circuit based on a vibration sensor. $30 bought enough stuff to build 4 sensors. The expense part was buying the plastic targets from LE targets. I tried a variety of materials, and the tuff plastic targets seemed to work the best. No walking down range. My post is one about moving target activators

The Geissele probably just got broken in and trigger pull dropped, Benny is right pulls below 3# that don't have a long pull can easily double with the loose shouldering.

I like the orginal because if you put in the time of fitting the disconnector you end up with a trigger that has no take, breaks clean, and has very short reset. True you can go lighter with the Giessele, or the RRA Varmint. I just put both in and they gave pulls around 2.5#, JP stays in the 3 to 3.25# range. If you do what I call driving the shot, which means driving the reticle to center of the target and breaking the shot just before you get centered, the JP works better because of the no take up. It just breaks now!

Leupold will change the reticle for about $75-90 to any of the other recticles, along with making extra BDC knobs for different loads

vimeo.com/53749989 paste this on address line of your browser, password mover to see the video.

What I've done is copy a typical portable moving target. Like those from Law Enforcement Targets. However a manually operated is not what I wanted. So I added a programmable controller to drive the DC motor controller. It can run 4 different programs and has three different speeds. The problem was I wanted a target activator that would not need resetting and was not metal so it could be shot at any distance with a rifle. I tried a bunch of stuff, but finally came up with a home made shock sensor circuit that catchs the shock of the bullet passing through the plastic and then drives the output high for any amount of time you want controlled by a RC circuit. The target and stand is not cheap but should last you can order them from LETargets about $65 each. All the circuit parts were bought on ebay and about $30 bought enough stuff to build four activators. I'll post the circuit pics and link to the video. So first use scenario will be a rifle match you start at 100 yards shoot first activator, about 3 seconds later the mover will come out run across pause and then return, both ends will be covered by no shoots. You will them move to 66 yards and shoot activator 2 and same scenario except the mover will be faster, finally 33 yards and it will be moving even faster. This way each shooter when done at the 33 yard line takes his target down and put another up and your ready for next shooter and very little walking or delay, I can program to do almost anything I want stop start shuffle etc. Also for IPSC it will work with simple switch closure, like credit card stuck in a cloths pin with two wires connected, etc. Nice part is that it will be same for each shooter and they will activate it. video link http://vimeo.com/53749989 password mover.

Just clean all the parts put epoxy on the clamp, put it together, clean excess off with vinegar and little plastic scrapper and let dry. When comes time to take it off a smart rap with mallet it will pop louse. IF it won't come off just take hair dryer to it until it too hot to hold them rap it.

Yes the brown truck seems rough on packages, I get a lot of foot prints on my box's. Most of blame falls on the shipper. UPS plainly states packages should be able to sustain a 38" drop to floor on any angle! That's the height of the conver belt system they use, and when somebody keeps feeding the conveyor and the unloader falls behind packages go tumbling to the floor.

I'm suprised more haven't jumped in on this. There is a couple of reasons this happens. Worst case is that sear/hammer hook angle is bad, or some one cut hammer hook too short, or relieved the sear too much. These are all serious and need gunsmith attention. Because with time and wear you may go full auto. With a new gun I say the reason is too little spring pressure either on the sear or the trigger return spring. A simple test is to hold the trigger forward, so that it can't bounce back, then drop the slide. If the hammer follows too little sear pressure. If it doesn't follow, then it is trigger bounce. This has two parts to it. The spring pressure to keep it forward, then the amount of free travel. If your trying to get below 3# it is balancing act. I found that if you try to remove all the takeup or free travel it is diffcult to get below 3#. Also heavy recoil springs affects this also along with slide to frame fit. A heavy slide driven by heavy recoil spring, makes it hard for the trigger to just sit there. So unless you've worked on 1911 triggers, take it too a gunsmith.

Title/Topic says it all. Will they ever be instock again, been waiting three months and still a backorder at Brownells. When go to the brownells site it shows back order, but list Manufacturer as NA. Anybody got any news

My very old pachmayr signature series does not have the under grip relief for the ambi safety retainer leg. Do the new ones, you think Pachmayr web site would have some text or at least good pics, neither does brownells? Thanks in advance.

Heres what worked for me for shooting a variety of guns, long and short. Decot Hy=wide is great aviator style frame with bridge on the inside where it is supposed to be. Keeps the lenses from fogging in Florida heat/humidity. Lenses snap in an out so you can have a variety of colors or prescriptions. For Iron site pistols my dominant eye is focused on front site the other on infinity. When using scoped rifle dominant eye is focused on infinity. Don't get bifocal it is never in the right place. My favorite color is the lightest blue blocker. Looks Salmon colored, really helps on those days you would be squinting otherwise. Yet helps keep the contrast on targets that are in the shadows, it can be hard to find a tan target on clay berm. The lense case holds three extra pairs of lenses. I just show up and select my lenses and color. Very large lenses and great field of view and good coverage.

Turns out that the spacing on the Jpoint base is the same as the STS. Just a different size. Take the Jpoint base and remove the dimples, flat plate and 150 grit and little circular motion and you've got a nice flat plate, Use #29 drill to open the existing holes and tap for 8X32. Now you got mount that secure. Those nice fat 8X32 capscrews will really hold it. But if you must, put a tiny dab of epoxy in each dimple on the STS before you mount it. Don't clean the STS {i.e. little oily} but really clean the mount that way when you take it off it will remount without any zero loss. Plus you'll save $25.00 bucks. Don't over tighten those 8X32 you can crush the little guy.

I bought the JPoint bomar adapter then the STS to Jpoint adapter. Didn't like it, I think I came up with a better way. The STS is made to mount with those nice fat 8X32 capscrews. The Adapter uses a smaller screw and there was a fair amount of play once you stacked everything together. I really didn't like the little screws in the big holes. So it turns out the spacing on the Jpoint base is sames as the STS, just remove the dimples. Flat plat, 150 grit paper and little circular motion and you got a nice flat plate. Then drill and tap them for 8X32. Use a no 29 drill and voila a nice solid mount. I got pics but its so simple.

I have returned a slide to the manufacturer, after I had constant problems with feeding. The problem was that the extractor hole had drifted down and in. I looked up the location in the orginal 1911 blueprints. .2685+-.0025 for distance from firing pin to extractor centers, then .409+-.004 center of extractor hole to the top of the rail. I slide a drill rod down the hole and measure several slides. However I don't have prints for a 40S&W. What did have is three slides in 40S&W from same manufacturer. The one I'm returned was very obviouse when you had several slides to compare too. What my question is and what I noted is that extractor holes seemed to vary greatly amoung the three slides. What problems does it cause and how critical is it?

Well I just think my grip is soft. Now that I've got it off you can look down it and see it deform when I grip it. So Dawson ran the Metal grip on sale for $249.00 and its on the gun! It took a little fitting the flange over trigger was little wide and I had to blend it to my mag grip, put some grip tap on it. The part that I really like is the way the gun feels. I'm running a 6 inch 40S&W with a radically lightened slide, I would like to have a slow motion of the gun during recoil I think the plastic was flexing alot. Since new grip is AL I won't say it not flexing any, but it is way less. The snap is gone, could I guess just be the few ounces of weight added. Anyways I hope it doesn't crack, I made sure it is solidly seated and loctited the grip screws, coated the inside with dry film moly

I've looked everything over and I just don't see 160' heat changing anything made from metal. Plus the problem is not from firing heat. I have installed a new extractor with less tension and less displacement as round comes up the breach face. Since that change I haven't had time and sunny day to leave it outside for three hours to heat up. When it been out in sun that long you can feel the grip give way. So maybe I got a bad batch of plastic????? IS there really any chance of that. Are there just bad grips??? I hate to spend money on the AL grip just to find out it is something else. Thanks in Advance

Here's my problem, gun runs fine when normal temp, but jams when it left out in sun and gets really hot. Not hot from firing, I can run 100 rounds through it as fast I can reload it and slide is too hot to handle but no jams. However lay the gun out in sun for few hours like during a IPSC match and grip gets mushy and gun starts to jam. Rounds are in 2/3 chambered but then get stuck, a slap on butt of slide usually sends them home, but some times won't go and have to eject. Take cold bottle of water and pore over and down grip and it starts running again. Other STI open guns on table are not having the same problem. This florida its hot! Was finally able to reproduce at home, let the black gun laying in sun from 9am to noon. It was hot, about as hot as you could hold with a bare hand. Jams in middle of the mag, not the first few rounds and not the last few, just the middle of a mag. Using Winchester white box 40 OAL 1.12~ I'm the only black gripped gun others are grey and blue etc.

Too many assumptions, how fast is swinger, the weight on it, the radius etc. Port size and distances of you and target from port. The way I'd setup is step to left of the port and setup a solid rest, aim at the 12 oclock A zone and practice to see how soon to break the shot. Now step inside port and if you can't see the target when you need to your screwed.

pig-tails don't fix the problem. Its the gas pressure at the port thats the problem. So I believe Armalite lays claim to promoting the mid-length which is about 2 inchs longer than the M4. The closer the port to chamber the greater the pressure, you get more port erosion per round at the closer port also. Also too close to the muzzle and the duration of gas pulse could be a problem. The AR has rather long leaky gas passage [sic...] compared to short stroke guns like AK or Garand. The 18" barrel with rifle length system without a muzzle brake may or may not cause problems. So nature of problem is the M4 has a pretty violent extraction which migated by the rubber donut on the extractor. Plus a big problem with M4 is burning mag after mag in full auto gets it too hot especially the end of that gas tube. The more rounds you shoot the more gas port erodes and more gas, pressure goes up and so does the auto cyclical rate. Then more failures. So for 18" barrel you can argue mid or rifle length, but skip the M4 length. I've built two 18"s' with mid-length and I'm using Douglas SS Blanks done by Compass Lake. One is a Stag based Lefty. Both work fine.

EGW makes a reverse shoulder plug for a bushing barrel. You can have it drilled for recoil rod, or sold for no rod. You have to call them, they don't have it on the web page and its expensive like $30.00.

I would say that on stainless slide fine, but on steel put a little oil on qtip and clean the hole that way.