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A little history note you don't need the neutral. Feston lighting, during early days killed alot of people because it was one hot wire and at the end they drove a stake in ground. So in effect the neutral and grounds are all for safety. The neutral is designed to return the juice to safe point instead of you becoming the safe point. Because connections get corroded over time, the neutral became hot some what and carried a potential, so more people died. Then came grounding wire green, not supposed to carry any juice and supposed to be a better ground than you could ever be even if standing in a puddle. Again it suffers from connection point resistence. Ground loops, is caused by different potentials of multiple grounds. If you look at todays power poles you see that every one of them has copper wire down side around bottom this connects to neutral, then goes up and works as lightening arrest for hot wire usual about 4 inch standoff. Three phase is little different animal, in that you don't need a neutral big enough to carry the total current from all three phases. because when they meet on neutral they cancel each other out. Even on single phase 220 houses feeds they let you derate the neutral. So on your dock, don't strap the neutral and ground together. Put a ground stake in and tie all the green third prongs to that and your shock problem will go away without a lot of digging and work. I would still put a Gfi on that circuit so some fool who uses a power and falls in water with it won't die. Nice 10 foot ground rod on edge of lack will make a wonderful ground, however if you strap neutral and grounds together you may have best ground in neighborhood and have lots of juice flowing towards it. It just like water all seeking the lowest potential.

Don't have to plug it, just don't put more than 8&1 in on line.

I know this isn't an in vogue gun, but I like it. Old para 14/45 with caspian slide, with standard bushing nowlin barrel, shooting factory loads. I don't like the sti wide long dust cover with slab side slide, too nose heavy. If I had my slided vented what would I gain or lose????? Thanks in advance

Since you've lightened the front end of gun, does it point quicker. The limited guns I had a chance to play with are all the extend wide dust cover and no scalp on slide and they are too nose heavy for me. I was thinking of having my slide vented on my old para 45????

A turkey barrel with remchoke is good choice. It will fit tactical class, change out choke to shoot slugs. I use an extended rifled choke for slugs and it works fine with shot. Also buy a 8 shot extension tube. You could experiment with a rifled barrel but I have no experience in that area.

I like it! Question what is gained from lightening the slide on a limited gun??? Does 40 vs 45 change that equation.

The confusing point with wiring is that the grounded and grounding are two different wires. I can't remember which one refers to witch. But the White wire is the neutral or return. The Green wire is the ground. The comment about a 4 wire setup is correct. If you don't want to bury a fourth wire. Put a ground stake at the dock and tie all green wires, outlets third prong to it. Do you need 220 volts at the dock????? If not use the three wires to provide, hot, neutral and ground. The way it setup now the GFI will probably trip all the time. IT is true that the neutral and ground are tied together at some point, don't wire things that way.

Ok, here is my idea of ideal tactical, added the weights of my other uppers for comparision http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=25278

btt edit

Problems with this system while great for long distance shots it is terrible for short and fast. Plus most rear sights don't have a small aperture that is right for globe front site. A bunch of people make rear sights with different aperture sizes. My problem was that small aperture wasn't small enough to sharpen the front sight. The large was just too large for me to get a good center on. So I bought a merit adjustable disc and installed in my large aperture. No mods to sight itself. Now I can have any size I want and all the way open is perfect for short and fast shots. Plus if stage has long shots and maybe weird lighting I can adjust my aperture before I start. Try others before you buy.

If you are going to load your own ammo, tuned to your rifle, run light bullets, drop to min power factor, get an adjustable gas block and light bolt and be prepared to tune recoil spring as well. I think Tubbs is even making a lite model. Now you'll have a gun that doesn't move hardly at all. However it won't function very well with box ammo. It kinda of the same route people do with the open 38supers in IPSC. If factory ammo is what your going to run, then RRA, Armalite, STAG bolts are just fine. You'll shoot out several barrels before the upper and carrier are worn out.

shoot what I carry! Then the company, friends. Then fun.

Thanks for info, keep it coming.

How many of you have to rent your range from somebody? How much do you pay? We rent ours from State, $100.00 for Saturday and Sunday. Thanks

JP rifles and Browells sells a Palma style aperture sight for rear and bloop tube type front mount site. It OK for limited. They are not cheap. You could use a national match rear, and forward mounted front site to get your radius up and keep the price down.

Ask every shooter at sign-in, if they don't have one, sell them one.

Paintball is OK because it likes kids playing with cap pistols. CowBoy action shooting is OK because it makes feel like John Wayne, and you dressup. IPSC doesn't involved childhood fanatasies, therefore is not a popular.

I love the safeties on gun, Did Dan build those?????

Rules sound good, The kludge with EZScore is awful. Just fix the program. Plus make it so you can change the scoring for different zones and steel values. EZScore should become freeware and source code should be available then you have good program for free!!!!!!

Here is a link to pics of Kings on a wide body with thumb shield and stop screw, it has lasted over 30,000 rounds. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...&st=0&p=291702& All the way at the bottom are pics. You'll notice that I had to remove some of right side safety at the bottom to get it to clear for retaining pin.

Thanks

Ok here is my idea of perfect rifle 3Gun for Lefty. A1 buttstock, JP trigger, Douglas barrel stainless 1/8 twist 18 inch with mid length gas tube 3/4 inch diameter barrel by Compass Lake. Accuracy speaks oversize tube 2 1/4 diameter rifle length. Ambi-safety, Norgon Ambi mag release, Stag Comp, bolt, ambi-barrel extension, upper, and carrier, GG&G riser extension, Warne quick rings med high, Leupold 1-4 shotgun scope, heavy duplex. Pic were taken during first hand tight assembly to check all the parts. I just got around to weighing my uppers. A Colt Car Hbar 16" iron sights with bolt. 4lbs 14 7/8 oz Stag upper in picture 18" with bolt 4lbs 12 3/4 oz A flat upper with Hbar 18" with bolt 5lbs 4 oz While not as light a pencil barrel, it handles very nice.

the AR500/400 steels are hard you should not use a torch to cut them. Welding also screws up the hardness. Should cut with water/abrasive or at least a plasma cutter. If you going weld, control heat and make the weld at area where they won't get hit. They will still eventual crack. Best design for IPSC is the leaning plate design, look in the appendix of the rifle rules and it has some targets sizes and stands.

sounds to me like there is no tension on the strut when hammer is down. So it digs in each time gun is fired. Should be a couple of pounds tension when hammer is down.

There is an expensive scop mount call the Talbot. It bridges the top of the action and increases the stiffness of the action. Needs gunsmith to install because it uses pins into the receiver. precision shooting has article about savage's this month.