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Sure enough, but there is a tactical rifle division. So if I shoot tactical division rifle, what am I supposed to do in Shotgun be either Modified, production. It is too confusing and complicated. Quit trying to follow the models used for pistol.

I would not repeat the purchase but I've got over 30,000 rounds through mine before I had to retouch the surfaces. However the improvement in lock time was obvious. The new skeleton style hammers have lowered the weight advantage. I had gone the whole route, even the mainspring plug was Tit. If I was to do over I would use a tool steel hammer and sear and disconnector. Still would use Tit in firing pin, hammer strut, and mainspring plug. Along with light weight hammer and sear.

MAybe this will sound to simple but to help with the 308, 223 major minor problem Which means PF's. Change the values on zones. For example lets say A is now worth 10 major and minor, however the C zone is worth 8 Major and 4 Minor. D zone is worth 6 major, 3 minor. Play with numbers and I believe you'll find a weighting that brings 308 into being competitive. Modifying easy score would simplified. I have one other small pieve in tactical the barrel limit on shotgun. If 22 is magic number lets not have mag tube extend beyond it, because then barrel might as well be that length to. Do we count chokes or not. If length is one of things that make it tactical then chokes should be counted too. Something simply like from edge of the reciever to fartherest part can be more than 22 1/4" . That way if we really want to check somebody you can just wip out tape measure and see.

From studying my blue prints of the 45 that's what I thought, but also thought I might be dreaming. I did end up adjusting the overtravel screw. I did have alot of rounds through gun, wore out a set of accurails, front bushing had gotten loose and finally cracked the recoil plug. Nowlin barrel was still fine. So had Krieger redo the rails for me, fitted a new barrel bushing, and new recoil plug and back to shooting fine again. I touched up the hammer and sears notches, very little removed. Safety is fine.

Those legs have been photoshopped also. OR they used a body double.

JB and Kroil works great.

My parts came in yesterday and I'm very pleased with the quality also. The upper fits without rattle on my Colt and PWA lowers. So now the bolt and gas tube are at Compass Lake for the barrel build.

www. compasslake.com is a favorite of the camp perry group of barrel makers. Do you feel $320.00 is too much for a custom barrel?

Cascade powdered, not the liguid. My dishwasher heats the water. So it gets a long blast with 160' degree water. Maybe all of them do I don't know.

Wolf works fine also. Both blazer and Wolf are fairly hot so you will be shooting with power factor of around 180.

www.compasslake.com Any barrel config you want. Talk to Bunny. I just ordered a 18", preban barrel .750 diameter all the way to front except for gas block lump.850 by 1/2". with a mid length gas tube, i.e. armalite. $320.00 deliver on a Douglas stainless blank. with 1/8 twist. Takes only three weeks, they offer a variety of blanks, Moly, Krieger etc. .085/6 gas port size. Just send him your bolt and gas tube and Frank White will fix you up with one nicest barrels I've ever seen. The chambers are just beautiful. Lots on web page about how he makes his barrels. He is making me a left-handed barrel right now. This is my third. He knows more about chamber reamers than anybody I've met. Tell him want you want to shoot, super heavy long bullets. small light bullets general run of mill 55-70 grain is what I run. He has reamer for each.

I just take a stiff bristle brush to mag well area, and M-16 style brush to around the chamber area oil and put away thats it. Now if gun has to be worked on, broken or modifying. Take it apart, got a little screen thing to keep small parts in. Then it all goes in the dishwasher. Don't tell the wife. Comes out so spanking clean you wouldn't believe it. Its so degreased that it is even good for cold bluing. I stopped sending my guns off for bluing, because I hair dryer the parts after coming out of dishwasher, then I just take cotton ball and my nitrile gloves and old plastic dish and rub the cold bluing all over and then dry again. Then back into dishwasher again, then blue again. Then dry and wash with hot plain water and soak with you favorite lube. Comes out look like a dark almost black factory blue. Will last about three years of handling on my regular use IPSC pistol. This can be all done while watching a movie in evening and working during the commericals.

Yep all four had bought STI factory mags. So it looks like we are split some with good luck other not?

'The ejection port cover opens upwards for two reasons. if it open downward it would block the bolt control, and they wanted to use the same door and pin. Opening upwards doesn't bother me. I will have to agree on the logo. But I'm not very hansome either.

Recently four people I know bought new sti guns. Two open 38 supers and two limited 40's. All four had trouble with magazine followers that rolled over and bent mag springs. Plus mushy triggers, and extractor tension, along with recoil master problems. I thought from the popularity and price that these guns were supposed to be rock and roll ready from the factory. Have they gotten like the old colts, buy new and send it to smith to make it work??? Anybody else noticed this?

Have question for 1911 trigger smiths. I have a Titanium hammer, maybe even a T sear. Now I know Tit has gone out of favor as they don't last as long as Tool Steel. Awhile back I had a couple of half cock hammer drops. So I recut my sear and hammer, problem gone. Trigger is still crisp. Now here is the question. it seems I have more travel before a reset now. Not much, but my finger was trained for it, now occasionally I find myself squeezing for the second shot and I haven't reset the trigger yet. So does shortening your sear affect reset? Now I know I can use the overtravel screws and the nub on the trigger strap to control trigger takeup and overtravel, but can I actually do anything to lessen reset travel Thanks in Advance

Don't do it if you think your going to save alot ot money. It will take up more of your time, than just buying it at the store. IF you shoot only 200/300 rounds a month it ain't worth it. Also lets say you shoot more than 300 rounds a month but they are lots of different ammo. like rifle, shotgun, pistol in multiple calibers. Getting setup to load them all is a pain. Don't expect to get more than 1/2 of your brass back at a match. If you shoot 9mm I don't think you'll come out ahead ever.

Only the bobbed frame guns have special mainspring housing.

You have to consider what is you main sight objective, open, tactical, limited. Lots of people are going in the tactical direction, no more than 4 power and trying to get a large field of view, and good eye relief. The problem with any scope if find the sweet spot fast from many positions. i.e. the cheek weld. Now if you have no problem with front site in your field of view and the high cheek weld required. Then the hi-ris and extend platform tops are OK. I myself find I need/like my optics mounted lower. So I shave the front sight, or put a new rail gas block on it. Then if I decide to shoot limited, off comes optics and on goes the handle and front sight. They never zero so i have to do a little sighting in. My latest creation will bring the .750 diameter barrel all the way to muzzle on a 18 barrel, with a shaved alumium gas block coverd by a full length float tube. Will use a GG&G extended top rail to mount a 1-4X20 scope forward. I use the nose to charge hand position. Now if I want limited I will mount a handle and put a regular front sight right at the muzzle to increased sight radius and still be limited legal. Also keeping the barrel diameter down to .750 so it won't be nose heavy. I also installed a Merit adjustable aperture disc in a factory handle peep sight so I can have a large aperture for hosing and then close it down from distance shots. Old eyes need all the help they can get to keep the front sight sharp. Well thats IMHO

IMHO have four classes, Open, Limited, production, Revolver. Then assign the top shooter in each class 100%. Then do the precentages to find the divisons winners GM, M, A, B,C,D don't go by posted classification I know too many sandbaggers. How to balance a prize table to cash is diffcult. Maybe something like cash limited to entry fee cost. Distribute it equally among winners. So there would be 6 division times 4 class which equal 24 people get there match fee back. Then if there more money left, 2nd place gets 1/2 fee back third get 1/4 Until the money is gone. For prize table. Take the 6 class winners and have a drawing to see who goes to the table first, second etc. Repeat for second place until all prizes are gone. That should eliminate sandbaggers, and keep the B C D division shooters from feeling like they are supporting the GM,M,A 's. So that way lots of people would get some money, and lots of people would go to the prize table. Also the sandbaggers would not get rewarded.

Going to do a lefty upper with a Douglas/Frank White light weight 18 barrel with a mid length gas tube setup with Stag ARMS Ambi Barrel extension. Then the lefty upper and bolt. Getting my quotes today for barrel costs Expect the whole thing to run about $750.00 for the complete flatop upper. Any advice before I plunk my money down.

Are you asking about barrel timing, or the amount of lug engagement at the top of the barrel.

I fly but don't like it, beside its the guy who works on the plane that worries me!

The old ithaca's had slam fire. New ones don't. I have an old Louisana State Prison 8 shot with slam fire. Its lots of fun.

Good Gun, Good Price. Watch for sales on Synthetic stocks if you want to lighten it up some.