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drewbeck

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Everything posted by drewbeck

  1. Yes, and my earlier point is every gun/maker can have failures. This live, that lube, they all work for certain people, it all comes down to what works for you and your specific gun. Open is the most fun guns to own and division to shoot in my opinion but it’s not a division you can buy a gun and just show up on Saturday and expect to never have issues. all the opinions given for what works for different people are valid but that isn’t to say any of it will work on your gun. Oh, and Glocks can be made to be run in open reliably but it should be avoided as your first or only open gun.
  2. You can case harden stainless steel. I would make sure you understand PT hardening/heat treating process and get an understanding of how the case hardening would change that. I would guess though that the thin portions of the upper trigger guard/frame flat may become embrittled and potentially increase likelihood of cracking. a one piece frame like Cz is just a much different animal than the modular 2011. ive thought about it as well but more from a pure heat treating coloring and clear coating vs case hardening but didn’t dig deep into the details enough to know the negative parts of doing so. either case will wear quick with any significant use/practice from holsters
  3. Ammo is the biggest failure point but people don’t want to blame themselves so they blame “open” or the “gun” also, cleaning isn’t as important as making sure it’s well lubed, a dry gun will fail way before a dirty gun will. lastly, most open guns you see fail, are failing because the user didn’t want to take the time to figure out their ammo/reloading, or what needs to be done to not make it fail during a practice session, and instead rely on matches to identify and troubleshoot any issues they may have, that are their own fault to begin with. nobody pulls a dragster out of the garage and tries to race without getting a good understanding of how it runs in different conditions and with different fuel, open guns are no different. if you own a Honda and are trying hard to make it a dragster, you’re ready for open, just know There are more details to care about than changing the oil
  4. Don’t pin your ejector and it’ll be able to move slightly on insertion but it’s still capture by the slide. i also wouldn’t make the ejector shaped any more like a firing pin that it already is...
  5. I have and use both. I run a thru die bullet feeder on my lnl instead of a case feeder because it’s much easier to get the cheap bullet feeder setup on the lnl than it is the case feeder. The diy casefeeder will be more of a headache to make run consistently and it’s all the same from a time standpoint if you cut out one hand operation from the equation it doesn’t matter whether it’s the case or bullet. Also, the shellplate on the hornady makes it super easy to slip a case in on the left and is faster than setting Bullets for me. that being said if I had to sell one, I’d sell the lnl over the Dillon. The lnl is a fine machine that needs more tweaking out of the box but after that it can run just as good. I also like the powder drop on the lnl better. its hard to describe but the lnl requires more “feel” for me as im loading whereas with the 650 I can basically just crank away without need as much attention to the feel of the machine. This allows a little faster loading for me as I can just watch what’s going on. Im also one of the weird ones that has loaded a ton on a 1050 and prefers the feel of the 650 over it because there is even less feel with the 1050 during the process. if you’re loading and shooting that much, buy a 650 and sell the one you don’t like, it’ll only be a $75 experiment and my guess is you’ll see the benefits of owning both for certain tasks and keep them
  6. Nothing worse than a “floppy shaft”
  7. Na, not really worked up and I’m not sure what happened to the rest of it. anyway, my point was, that the machinery doesn’t make the gunsmith, a quality machinist and gunsmith could/should be able to do nearly all work with hand tools and be able to produce the same or better level of quality as they can with machinery. machinery is what allows a pro gunsmith to save time and actually try to be profitable. Time saved vs money spent as well as what the persons primary focus type of work are all drivers for what size equipment they own. just saying you could be an incredible gunsmith with hand tools only if you didn’t have to make money at it
  8. Your entire post is irrelavent to what he was asking when posing the question of the value of a small hobby size Logan lathe. I’m also curious how you ever thought you had a clue what a “gunsmith” was if you now somehow believe that it’s their tools or big machines that somehow converts them into a “real” gunsmith. It’s seemingly obvious that you think a gunsmith is purely a machinist and I think you’d be surprised to learn how little time in the average day they spend near a mill or lathe. I think you’d also be surprised at how little time a “real” gunsmith achially ispends that a bigger machine somehow makes them better at h. I’d however argue that any “real” gunsmith doesn’t n need a full size mill, lathe, or other machine to turn
  9. I'm assuming you don't have a ton of experience with spotting scope viewing so it that is incorrect take this for what it is. Spotting scopes can be very difficult to look through for longer periods of time and they can also be more difficult to use due to the one eye, and things that happen in the brain, headaches, etc. If it was me looking to buy something that I didn't have to carry (hunting) for example but wanted to use just to view longer distances from a stationary position, I would look at getting more of an astronomy pair of binoculars with a higher variable power range. These would also be a lot more friendly to you using for actual astronomy use which may be fun as well given you are at a higher elevation and likely away from the city lights. In either case you'll need a tripod so factor that into your budget as well. The glass quality isn't going to be that great in this type of bino but for your use it should be good enough and you should be able to find something on the low end of your budget if you want. This type of bino or spotter at that price range won't be great for looking at fine details in animals at a couple miles but you'd be able to at least see them well enough. This is just an opinion, I'm in CO and usually spend a 100-200 hours a year behind glass looking at animals, no claims of being an expert but I do have a fair amount of experience so take it for what it is and I'd be happy to share
  10. I haven’t opened the Dillon up to confirm but I’d assume it’s a dc low voltage gear motor which you could up the voltage a little with a different power supply and increase the feed rate with something you likely have laying around the house. ill soon be corrected if I’m wrong about the type of motor Dillon uses
  11. Get the two volumes by Jerry, they are the Bibles for 1911 you can buy the paperbacks or google search and download them free in pdf, you’ll read them more than once
  12. I’ve had them return perfectly as well as be a little off with the same site and same mount. Things like a chunk of loctite or order of screw tightening/torquing can plan into it. It will likely be close but who knows until you shoot it and see. Whats weirder is that out of the box with 2-RTS2 and 2 DPP sights, they’ve all only been a couple clicks off of good one way or the other which seems crazy to me
  13. How did it turn out? No judgement, I thought I’d used every excuse/explanation possible with the wife on why I “needed” a gun but learning to disassemble one hasn’t been in my list, I’m gonna add it for the future ?
  14. Tip...if money is part of the equation, don’t buy a gun to learn how to disassemble/reassemble it. Buy what you want to begin with and watch some YouTube vids
  15. A local gunsmith is a big deal unless you buy two identical and can deal with shipping time. See who your local competition gunsmith is and what he suggests if not his own build. The “best” gun runs and is made of metal and marketing. There are many smiths that build them from metal and they run well, without being the best with regards to the marketing aspect of the game. just saying
  16. Yes, it matters. How much, really depends on the situation. in a field course the benefit of round count outweighs the weight disadvantage, but a speed shoot or classifier, reloads, etc. I’ll always use 140’s unless there’s a specific reason I’d need something else. it may seem minor or insignificant but small things add up to be big things at the end of a match
  17. Solid demonstration of this differences in grip pressure and strength during a real slow mo example. Thanks for sharing this and writing a great book cha
  18. Went from cmore to DPP, and just didn’t like the less round glass shape compared to cmore or rts2. It seemed if this tiny difference in glass height caused me to lose the dot regularily and with either cmore it’s a non issue. romeo looks and feels nearly identical to rts2 to me as well. Ive has no issues with my two rts2’s and they’re older now but unsure which V they are
  19. Depending on the age of the apartment, it’s probably designed for 40-50lb/sf for live load. take the sf area of the bottom of the safe and multiply by 40 and see how close that is the the actual safe weight. My guess is you’d be over load capacity based on those weights but I don’t know how big the footprints are of them. A couple sheets of plywood under it would make the loaded area 32sf x 40lb = 1,280 lb capacity roughly. theres a lot of assumptions in the above just giving some ideas as to what the likely capacities are structurally. in all reality though, if the safe isn’t bolted down, a good thief will tip it and be inside in a few minutes with power tools, and only need a couple more minutes without them. In all likelihood though they’d just throw it on a dolly and roll it out the door. What you’re really buying in a small theft deterring metal box is safely from an opportunistic thief and fire protection and I’d weigh the reality of the likelihood of either of those to make the decision. A real safe weighs tons not lbs unfortunately
  20. A 10” vs the 1922 at 11”, the biggest thing you’ll gain with the 1922 is the larger spindle which is good if you’re going to do much barrel work
  21. Also depends a lot on where in country you are. Also one thing to consider is how much available space you have for it. The smaller “hobby” sized lathes and mills can actually command a premium over the larger more capable machines just due to the fewer people that want one for a home shop. I have an 825 that I think I paid $650 for and tore it completely down and rebuilt it for perspective. Broken gears and and parts are findable on eBay as well as from Logan but they’re expensive from Logan.
  22. And all in ear electronics have the same battery life (or similar) issues due to them being zinc air batteries. Once they tab is removed and they are turned "on" there is no turning them off, they just go until they are depleted. They are super cheap and you can just shoot 3 less rounds an outing to cover it if needed. I also just shot the walker's with open gun outside last week and when they are sealed good, they are totally fine. If there is an issue with them being sealed well then you'll immediately know it. It's no different than foamies. For the money, being able to hear, and not get super hot in the summer they are a great plug for all day wear in my opinion.
  23. Yes, the biggest reason they also break more frequently in 2011’s is because we generally do not want the slide to lock back, so we file down the part of the stop that is actually serving both purposes of the retainer of the pin so it can’t fall out unless aligned with slide as well as that nub is what the follower contacts to lock back the slide. It’s a balance of remove enough to not make it lock back but keep as much material and strength as possible so the area doesn’t break allowing the pin to walk out of the gun. if we didn’t modify the slide stop for slide lock back the part would almost never break (ie stock 1911 typically) but since we don’t want it to lock back, having them break occasionally is par for the course
  24. The new slide could have had a slight fit issue with the stop which caused the breakage, or it was the years of hard use you said it had been through.... if a second breaks quickly, I’d definitely look much harder into the issue but they are a part that wears and breaks regularily. Ive tried/used most of them, much like a lot of other parts “best” is subjective. I wouldn’t shy away from any of the big names but also like the egw’s but to be honest can’t remember what’s in my 3 different guns currently
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