drewbeck

I had one on a carry gun, it was good for that purpose in my opinion but the glass is small and horribly dark in comparison to the current prevalent micros you’ll see on open guns. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What type of brass and caliber? It’s probably either a stepped case or very unsupported chamber, or potentially out of battery ignition.

Ya, I understand your logic, but the case was always undersized and wasn’t a press fit into the chamber to begin with. Your talking about the coefficient of thermal expansion which wouldn’t be applicable unless the chamber had enough pressure to expand more than the case to begin with and then constrict on the case due to differential pressures. In something like a Jacobs or Morse taper, this is an entirely different situation than a thin piece of brass in a relatively thick walled piece of steel. Just my opinion Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not to totally contradict but just spray some gun oil, wd40, or other lubricant in it to soak outside the case and use a brush, pick, tweezers, etc to remove. the case expanded and wedged itself inside the chamber during firing but cools and shrinks after firing. It happens every time you fire a round, you’re just missing the rim and extractor now. There’s carbon that’s making it sticky

Case head separation, or it’s like a squib but it’s actually a detonation, meaning it’s a super light charge that had enough free space/air in the case to detonate vs burn like a normal rounds does. If you go below the minimum charge weight it can be equally as catastrophic if an explosion as going drastically over the max charge with a fast powder. I’d rather have a squib any day of the week that a 1 grain (light charge) of titegroup go off. Think firecracker vs sparkler Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s also good to carry spares of things that you’re likely to lose if disassembly in a windy, rocky, safety area when in a hurry. Pin sets, springs, etc may not be a part that breaks all the time but finding a plunger spring in a weed patch makes it worth carrying an extra whenever I’m shooting. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree, this is more of a box of parts that wear and eventually need replacing vs an emergency repair kit but it’s a small enough box that it really doesn’t matter to me that I’m carrying the extra stuff Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There’s no reason to unless there’s a reason to due to wear or fitting issues with the barrel, or the slide reaming being worn or oversized, or the specific comp or fitting. i had a slide that needed one due to shoulder wear/chamfer on the plug cut, it was a shorty which also changes the amount of bearing surface area and material in the tunnel. no reason to use a one unless you have an issue in my opinion

And it’s all fit, or at least has been run in the gun enough to know it will run 95% ish

The cups are most prone to breaking and then the extractor itself. i have this onhand and a backup gun if the frame, barrel, or slide cracks.

Is the gun still in the white? It sounds like the gun could be truly “not finished” yet which some more local smiths will have a person go test drive the gun for a few thousand rounds before they do the final parts finishing, blasting, coatings etc. The truth is almost all machining and machined parts (unless ground) look shoddy when they comes off the machine. Youd be shocked at what tool marks are living and hiding behind most mild media blasted parts.

It really depends on where exactly you are going to sand it. It may have no impact or may totally change the lockup and functioning of the gun depending on where you remove material. its important to know what you’re doing and know how changing each area will impact the barrel fit. It may seem non consequential but you could be changing things dramatically by accident. its one of those things no one can answer unless they have the gun in front of them and can see exactly how the gun was fit and what they could safely do to the finish without changing the fit.

That’s actually a fairly mild corner trim (relative to many) to avoid the barrel hitting the mag. The lighting of the back of the chamber makes it look like it crazy stepped but it may only be a couple thou difference which may look unfinished but function perfectly. the only true thing that matters is whether it runs or not, then decide if you can live with a keeper or not

Eggleston and they run well at major unless you crimp stage them to death

My post may be misleading slightly, I meant it is all relative. The cal produces a ton of gas for sure, but so does a .50 BMG but you’re never gonna see either described as being “Flat and Soft” out of a pistol.... An open 9mm produces roughly 500ft/lb of energy, the 500sw is roughly 2800ft/lb of energy with a 300gr bullet. Remember it’s all about Newtons 3rd, and resolving 2800 foot pounds of energy internally to the gun requires a very heavy gun. A bigger comp may make it slightly better than now but if the gun is already compensated, a different comp won’t make it dramatically different than it is now. The truth is it’s a man cannon, and it’s never gonna feel like a pea shooter If I wanted to shoot a match with a gun like that I’d figure out a way to load wax or some super light bullet . Also, the blast that’d come out of a 500 with a more efficient comp design will be teeth rattling for sure

The 500 has little gas relative to a 9mm/.38x youre pushing s bullet that’s .5” in diameter and probably 3x the mass of an open gun. A comp won’t make a big difference, load a lighter load and bullet for the gun.

Ya, this is the set I have and the what this thread is about. I was asking about the Cabelas Media Separator that BiteTheBullet had referenced and was wondering if there is another option for sorting or if he was purely talking about separating media in his post.

Does this actually sort case type or are you just talking about separating the media? If it’s a shorter, please share link

They’re the best affordable option for brass sorting and they work well. I try to only sort brass one painful weekend per year and I take the bowl off a big vibe tumbler and mount a 5 gal bucket to it and it’ll sort 30 gallons of brass pretty quick and easy but it’s dusty and requires respirator.

A u die will undersize the case diameter which will create greater neck tension below the bell and crimp. It’ll basically ensure the rounds feed and you don’t have setback because the case is narrower below the bell/seated bullet. Like i I said it’s a must for 9mm in my opinion regardless of brass or roll sizing. Roll sizing removes bulges but primarily fixes the case rim which is the area that gets most screwed up from firing and the extractor/ejector.

Interesting. I’d imagine that the Alu will work harden quick and crack on the next loading or so.? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Weight...reloading...weight....reliability...weight...reloading. you need enough mags to feel comfortable should you drop one or even two during a stage, and still complete it. Generally reloads at easier and more consistent and faster with a 140 or 150. And if you want an extra mag to finish 2-5 rounds on a stage you don’t want to reload a 30 round mag to do it. theres no issue doing it if your capable but it’s easier to be more consistent reloading with a shorter, lighter mag. Theres generally just no reason to do it so why carry, clean, load, and reload a bigger mag than is necessary.

Sort a few thousand rounds by hand and by headstamp and it’ll become clear that Blazer, PMC, FC, RP, Speer, and Win stamps feel significantly better quality than anything else (of major brands, star, hornady , etc are good but seldom) basically any NATO provider headstamp is solid not that you want their crimped stuff

Sorry off topic but I’ve been considering major pistol a try but don’t want to go to 124’s, can you compress this load very well or what’s the min oal you could get with 115 would you guess?

Wera also makes some awesome screwdriver multitips that are good for shop or range bags