drewbeck

The barrel and overall length/internal capacity are going to be the reasons why you’d experience what your describing. For example I have two 5” KKM barrels that run 5-6 pf different with the exact same batch of ammo. Powder lots will also contribute to variations in pf but are generally less than barrel influences in my experience. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s the wizard and not wand that matters most. Give any real GM a Glock and in general the difference will be unnoticeable to anyone but them in a week or so. It’s proven, Glocks can win world championships in every division but open. Running a Glock in open reminds me of racing a Jetta in fast and the furious, yes it’s possible but it’s so far out of the basis of design that it’s not worth doing unless you have F U money, and then why bother asking the question. if I started shooting Lin again I wouldn’t hesitate leaving my 2011’s in the safe and shoot my Glocks because I’ve learned it’s pretty irrelevant at the end of the day

+1, temperature is usually only factor that we have to deal with for internal ballistics (depending on powder) at the chrono. External ballistics doesn’t play much of a role in Uspsa but at long ranges the affect of temp and barometric pressure are the biggest factors that come in to play after gravity, wind, and inclination, with regards to external ballistics affecting bullet flight and velocity.

Haven’t run 147’s but the 115’s (really 112-124’s) are accurate and run great for open shooters. The coating makes them feed better than jacketed for me and groups open up about 2” at 25 yards. This may not be acceptable for majors but for practice and locals they are awesome and cheap. theyre worth a try for any caliber from my experience

Flattened primers are “A” sign of pressure issues but they aren’t the only sign. 9mm major is going to be over saami pressures to begin with. Small pistol primers will generally always be flattened, and you have to look for other issues like case separations and consistent cracking to worry about it. The proven powders for 9 major are slow enough that it’s almost impossible to blow up a 2011 barrel with them. You’ll just end up with unburnt powder. Titegroup or other fast powders will be a hand grenade if overloaded. Small rifle powders aren’t masking anything, they are just designed to handle the pressures that correlate with 9mm major. For a 2011 open gun you have to run a extra long firing pin, some will say theirs works without it but the $15 bucks for one is the best insurance and guarantee that the gun will set off any primer. You’re over thinking things in my opinion, it’s a good thing to do, just know when to stop Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Interesting on the 124’s, I haven’t had the issue with 115’s, that would get old quick for sure. I lube but just roll on a rag as I’m gauging and haven’t had a detrimental issue to tell me I need to tumble them after loading, may be something to consider but doesn’t resolve the issue of media there to begin with.

Why or what makes you believe you need to slow the slide down to begin with? A fast slide is going to be more reliable due to the inertia of the shorter lighter slide with regards to being able to strip a round from the mag. Having said that, you need to ensure the mag spring gets the round into position quickly (ie fresh mag springs) and ensure there is minimal friction points on the ramp and into the chamber. Think about the time it takes a slide to fully cycle back 1.5” vs the time it take a mag to move a round vertically .40” (roughly). Slide speed has little to do with this equation, it’s much more about ensuring smooth and consistent feeding and ejection. Your essentially asking how to make a .38 super feed as reliably as a 9mm open gun.....no one asks that question because 38’s length and feed angles are inherently easier to make work consistently. If it is was me, I’d look for a used shorty 38 super or 9x25 if you want to have a hand cannon and have a GS cut the comp and barrel back. Or buy a Glock subcompact. If you don’t want to sink a bunch of money into the adventure of having an officer 10 custom that’s reliable, I’d say you will gambling for sure. Just my opinion Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Why tumble HP at all after loading?

My question is what’s the point? it sounds like you’re wanting a heavier hitting carry gun? If so porting and/or comps will make you and anyone around you more deaf than you would have to be. If you’re wanting the 10mm power you’re way better off getting a .357 jframe or .44 snub. Round count will be almost identical if not so, and inherent reliability issues will almost be non existent. on the other hand if your answer is “because I want one” then as an open shooter, we typically don’t try to slow down the slide, rather we try to reduce the impact force of the slide at both ends of the cycle, this is done with a lighter slide and typically as light of springs as possible to ensure reliability. There’s some nuances within that rule with how you tune the springs and FPS but in general we don’t want to slow down the slide, we want it to disrupt the sight picture less. knowing your goal would make it easier to help you out with your question

Pretty sporty run there shooting major at almost 16hf with a draw, 2 positions, and 3 arrays.

It’s been a few months since I’ve bought them but they seem to regularly be on special at Cabelas. That’s where I’ve always found the best price on SB’s. I buy a bunch when I see them on special whether I need them or not Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

+1 on S&b primers, I’ve never had an issue in 35-40k of them. The wins are frustrating in the Frankfort auto feeder but a slight reaming of the tray helps make them feed better. Others will disagree but, the s&b primers are as good as any or better in my book and especially for $23/1000 I’m curious if they run well with light striker springs so anyone with experience pleased chime in, but even thought the feel harder seating them, I think they are actually pretty soft from an ignition standpoint. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

+1 on S&b primers, I’ve never had an issue in 35-40k of them. The wins are frustrating in the Frankfort auto feeder but a slight reaming of the tray helps make them feed better. Others will disagree but, the s&b primers are as good as any or better in my book and especially for $23/1000 I’m curious if they run well with light striker springs so anyone with experience pleased chime in, but even thought the feel harder seating them, I think they are actually pretty soft from an ignition standpoint. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

“Trigger stop” = trigger over travel screw, give it a 3/4 turn counter clockwise and see if it still happens. If the problem goes away, tighten 1/8-1/4 turn back and test again until you find the right spot that is reliable but has the least amount of overtravel that you find comfortable.

The other thing to consider is two top ends doesn’t give you a backup gun for when your gun breaks, two guns would at least give you a backup for a match even if it made you shoot major in 3gun or minor in limited Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not being a 3 gun guy or knowing the rules, is mag capacity the primary reason to run 9mm? If 4 rounds per mag isn’t a huge competitive disadvantage, why not just load .40 light and just use 1 gun? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a good indoor range drill for practicing "seeing" shotcalling if you want to give it a try. You need a range with the timed exposure turning targets to do it but what I do is put up a multiple target sheet on the board. I use the 5 dot ones that have five different targets that are each about 6" ovals. Set the exposure timer for a time that pushes you to shoot at your limit of speed and put the target at 7-10 yards. Then from the low ready, draw and fire two on each of the 5 targets during the exposure and when it turns sideways, try to remember/identify any shots that missed the 6" targets, then turn the target and confirm you saw/called all your shots correctly. Obviously make up shots as you would but the pace should be such that there really isn't time to do any makeups and the point is to remember/"see" all your hits without being able to see the actual holes due to the targets turned as you are finishing. As things progress you can slow down the exposure but keep the pace of shooting the same and work on making up any called misses subconsciously. For me, I set the time at 2 seconds, 7 yards is a consistent all A zone shots but at 10 yards it's much more difficult and things really come to light as far as transitions, dragging shots as your moving before you've called the second shot, etc. The point is to set a time and distance that is an uncomfortable pace and on the ragged edge and then become an observer of what the gun is doing, sight pictures, etc and because you're going so fast and then the target disappears, it's difficult to cheat by seeing holes in the target. It's also good for lots of other aspects of shooting as well by pushing the target out to 15, 20, 25 yards and obviously adjusting the time accordingly. It becomes basically a par time dry fire type drill but confirms you aren't cheating like you can in dry fire. Just something to try but I think you'll quickly new and different things come to light. It's a good drill for me at least.

Please do, I’ve been curious as well how it works but always end up just going the easy route with cerakote

This is also the place to go to learn about almost all available metal platings and coatings, processes, etc https://www.caswellplating.com/catalogsearch/result/?cat=0&q=Stainless+black Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sharpie and/or shoe polish cold blues don’t work on stainless because stainless doesn’t oxidize (rust) like steel does. There are some similar products like cold blue for stainless but they are hit and miss whether they’ll work depending on the actual stainless. Sharpie will save the most agony for the least amount of money until you want to waste the money of refinishing the whole thing again. This is just my opinion for a comp gun that’s gonna be run hard and will show more signs of wear. It’s like the first scratch on a new car, it won’t be the last but there definitely no reason to have it totally repainted

Is is headstamp sorted? I’d be curious where you get this if you’d pm me I’d appreciate it.

And I’d highly suggest using roll sized brass for even more assurance of reliability/consistency

Don’t pay attention to the “someone’s” with gun issues, pay attention to the best open shooters you have around you and I’ll bet they rarely if ever have any reliability issues at matches. regardless of the builder, by nature open guns are pushing the limits of what’s possible with the balance of what’s possible between speed and accuracy in a pistol. In open the shooter is as responsible, as the gun is, when It comes to reliability. If you’re willing to do the work and put the time in to ensure your gun is reliable you’ll love open just don’t expect a kalashnikov in terms of reliability

If it’s a mixed bag of parts and you know some are from a good manufacturer, I’d assume they all are regardless of who actually made them. buy the grip you want ang try the parts in practice, if you have issues, then start replacing things, if you don’t and the trigger pull is like you want it then worry about other things in life. bottom line is you won’t know until to try it in your gun and even then you want a gunsmith to figure it out for you, or decide you want to devote the time, money, and effort to do it yourself. They’re all valid options but there’s no way to know until you try one of them

Don’t pay attention to the “someone’s” with gun issues, pay attention to the best open shooters you have around you and I’ll bet they rarely if ever have any reliability issues at matches. regardless of the builder, by nature open guns are pushing the limits of what’s possible with the balance of what’s possible between speed and accuracy in a pistol. In open the shooter is as responsible, as the gun is, when It comes to reliability. If you’re willing to do the work and put the time in to ensure your gunis reliable you’ll love open