kneelingatlas

The disconnector controls DA fire. Its not uncommon for different slides of different vintages to not interchange without some gunsmithing.

Not necessarily, and if your pistol has been well used I wouldn't expect it. A stronger trigger plunger spring will give a more positive reset feet, but it will also increase the pull weight.

My buddy and I have been loading 9mm from an old cardboard tube of Unique and it works great! 5.5gn at 1.143" with a 124gn plated bullet made 146PF and was still softer than factory ammo. We plan to back it down to ~130PF.

Ahh I see now! I didn't realize, but the bone at the base of my left thumb lines up with the safety too so I guess if I installed the extended one it would be touching there too.

Magpul BUS?

The comp will really come alive once you start loading your own with slow burning powder. Be sure to save your 10mm brass.

You will just get more pre travel.

There is a nub on the shaft of the safety which blocks the safety leg of the sear when engaged. 'Fitting the safety' is when file this nub until it fits under the safety leg when the hammer is cocked. It sounds like the tolerances of your parts stacked at the other end of the spectrum. As long as the hammer won't fall with the safety engaged I wouldn't worry about it. If you have another sear you might try it and see if it fits tighter. The 'looseness' you're feeling is effected by the hammer, sear, safety and all the pins involved, so anytime you change one of those, it's going to change the fit.

Are you shooting factory ammo or hand loads?

Got it. So your project turned out pretty cool, how does it shoot? Were you able to confirm the thread of the factory Witness comp as M15x0.75?

No baffles? I've seen muzzle devices with no top ports, just front ones around the muzzle. They don't do much for muzzle flip, but the counter straight back recoil.

I seems like impure lead would leave you with a lighter bullet???

End of what?

It was the last of my BVAC ammo; I just started reloading and have yet to find a load which is just right for the TS. I think the gun was just too dirty; I cleaned it well and it seems to be fine now but to be honest, I have too little match opportunity and too many guns to worry about it. I'm going to try out my new Witness Hunter next match. I know, I know... I'm spoiled

The P9 in 9mm definitely has something funky going on with the disconnector.

I dropped a little over a pound in SA going from stock TRS and 13# hammer spring to CGW 11.5# and the RP TRS. I installed the CGW RP FPRS and haven't has a single light strike with Winchester SPPs

I have no idea what happened, I just felt the slide not going into battery and immediately racked out the round.

The trigger bar on the left rests so much further forward because it's DA, SA triggers limit the range of motion because the only need to engage one set of hammer hooks. I'll bet the long SA pre travel on your P9 9mm has to do with your disconnector being worn out or the wrong one; if someone used the disconnector from a CZ it would do that. The slipping/grinding just before the shot breaks is a timing issue; when you file the SA hooks too far on a DA/SA pistol, the hooks on the disconnector start to grab. When it gets really bad the hammer won't drop but just travels back when you release the trigger. Sometimes when a gun has been worked over it's easier to start over with factory parts than to keep filing to get it right. If I were you I would take all three apart, visually inspect all the internals, pick my favorite frame, set it up the way I want it (DA/SA or SAO) with all the newest looking parts, then shoot it with each upper and see which one shoots best. I did this with a hand full of small frame Tanfos and found the best barrel didn't necessary shoot best in the best slide, slides in frames etc. It took time, but in the end the best pistol was better than it started and amazingly enough, so was the worst! You would think one of them would end up with all the 'bad' parts and shoot like a lemon, but it's not so much about good/bad as it is about stacking tolerances.

The only competition guns I've ever seen on the shelf at a gun store are ancient and from an estate. Does the store own it, or is it on consignment? Either way, if they've got a $899 price tag on it, the previous owner probably got/will get no more than $500 for it. If you're like me and see project guns like orphaned puppies and want to do all the work yourself, I would offer $400 and call it a day.

The recoil system is longer.

Cordy, you were shooting a .40 right? I think the OP is asking about 9mm. My TS is .40 also (the stock spring is around 14#), but the 9mm TS should be around 11#. The stock springs are not going to be even pounds because they're metric. I would not be afraid to try springs less than 10#.

This can't be your only CZ is it? I've got CZs for 4 divisions

I don't know, 15#???

On my DA guns I use as light a hammer spring as I can get away with, but I found my TS felt mushy with an 11.5# and worse still with the 8.5# so I went to an 18# and I still have just over a 1 1/2# trigger. I like the crisp trigger, the fast hammer and never having to work about light strikes.

I noticed you didn't touch any mags but the front one until the very end, I don't have enough experience to tell you that's good, bad or indifferent; just something I noticed. I run through all the mags on my belt, just to make sure the 'hunt for mag' mode comes automatic without any delay.