kneelingatlas

Closer to this but longer still.

First off you don't have to buy the comp kit to get the comp, Numrich sells a bunch of them for about $40 each, but you have to get the right one for your frame size: small frame barrels are 14mm in OD, large frame are 15mm. Numrich doesn't specify frame size, but they have a great return policy, so I bought them all just to check them out and returned the ones I didn't want. You have a large frame Witness Match 9mm with a 4.75" barrel right? If you want to add this comp to this gun You need to take a 6" barrel from EAA, have it cut and threaded M15x0.75. Then you'll end up with something similar to this but longer (this one is a small frame with a compact slide).

There are a few of the comp designs I have which do have some effect with factory ammo, but nothing too mind blowing.

Sure, a Match can handle +P ammo, but I don't think factory +P ammo would give you the desired effect with a compensator. I have two compensated pistols and seven compensators; when I first started my quest for the elusive, 'flat-shooting' 9mm, I didn't reload and hoped to buy factory ammo which would get me the results I wanted. I had no luck. Some factory loads felt EXACTLY the same with or without the comp. What you want for a comp is SLOW powder, but unfortunately slow powder in a non compensated gun produces more felt recoil and since the vast majority of commercially loaded ammo customers do not have compensators, factory ammo tends to utilize faster burning powder. [/non-scientific, purely speculative analysis].

I chopped up my 9x21 barrel to make a fun experiment about barrel crowns: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=171217&hl=

Yes you're out of luck. The selection of factory 9x21 is going to be very limited in the US and it would not make major, it's basically the same as 9x19 factory ammo, just with longer brass. The development of 9x21 was not to have the ability to load longer like 38 Super, but simply to make a civilian round 'different' from 'military' rounds in countries with silly laws. In a small frame gun it's the magazine which limits your OAL, you can make the brass longer, the chamber longer, but you can't make the magazine accep longer rounds. I bought a 9x21 top end for my small frame Witness just to get my hands on the slide and comp; I shot some 9x19 rounds through it just to try. It functioned fine, but it just didn't sound or feel right and the brass gets fire formed out of spec.

Man I wish it was that easy! I have searched to the end of the internet and done a lot of experimenting in my quest for a compensated Tanfo. Do you have a large frame? Or small? What caliber? Length slide?

I've lightened my slide, undercut my trigger guard and drilled/tapped the frame of my TS so I've got some bare metal and I'm thinking of having the pistol refinished. I played around with some color on the computer so I though I would share: I don't know if you can beat all black

I'll second Twister's thoughts on the lightened slide, I added a slide racker which mitigated the snap. With regards to the undercutting of the frame, I did only the trigger guard and not the beaver tail to make it point better for me. Try drawing the pistol with your eyes closed, when you open them are your sights aligned? My front sight was consistently high, so I undercut the trigger guard to bring it down.

This here will cure what ails you: http://czcustom.com/CZ-Mainspring-13Lb.aspx

Lee, what hammer springs do you have installed in your DA CZs? any spring north of 13# is pretty brutal if you ask me. I've got an 11.5# in right now and plan to mess around with a 8.5#.

Since you can't start cocked and locked in Production, the differences are very subtle. If you plan to keep it truly 'box stock' or simply change springs, I would prefer the decocker for the easy operation at LAMR which all ROs are comfortable with. On the other hand if you want to do some further mods, they would be simpler (with more options) on the frame safety model.

Has anyone here made a claim under the NRA insurance?

I know there are some centerfire designs where the firing pin can be damaged during dry fire, but as far as I can tell the Tanfoglio design does not have that problem. I have also heard this advice, but I have tens of thousands of rounds through my competition .22 with at least that many dry strikes and I have observed no ill effects. On all the rimfires I've looked at, the firing pin cannot actually reach the breech face. Maybe this piece of advice has outlived a previous design paradigm wherein the FPs of rimfires would hit the hard steel of the breech face without a soft brass rim to stop them???

4.9gn of Unique and a 124gn CMJ @ 1.14" is a soft shooting load at 140pf, it should be even better once I back it off about 10pf.

I know you asked about the Ruger and the Kimber; I've never shot the Kimber, but I've shot the Remington for years and recently owned a Ruger M77 for a short time. My biggest complaint about the Ruger was the trigger, the fulcrum is much further forward than the Remington so the trigger moves up and back as the shot breaks. The Remington comes with a three way adjustable trigger which I came back to after experimenting with a 'match' trigger. I found the stock trigger with a Wolff RP TRS was capable of the best trigger pull I've ever felt (and super light too! Less than a pound).

Yes, they're advertised as 960 fps, but I ran a handful over a crono after a match and they all clocked over 1020!

This sport is really a combination of four related but distinct hobbies: shooting, reloading, gunsmithing and gun collecting. So naturally each of us is a different blend of the four, but there is usually a dominant force. Which is yours?

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=175035#entry1936388 By pre 2004 I assume you mean small frame? I might like to buy some of those old parts.

I just bought a used Tanfo and it came with these base pads on old style .40 mags which I have already set aside for the new K40 mags, so my questions are these: -are these the H-140 pads? -will the Grams 9/40 spring/follower work with these? -what advantages to the H-141 mags offer? I have run these bases/K40 tubes with the stock follower and it can hold 19, but after #17, the follower gets jammed against the spacer. I assume the H-141's don't fill the gap below the spacer, but will the Grams follower work well anyway with either pad? Thanks in advance.

I just bought a used Tanfo and it came with these base pads on old style .40 mags which I have already set aside for the new K40 mags, so my questions are these: -are these the H-140 pads? -will the Grams 9/40 spring/follower work with these? -what advantages to the H-141 mags offer? I have run these bases/K40 tubes with the stock follower and it can hold 19, but after #17, the follower gets jammed against the spacer. I assume the H-141's don't fill the gap below the spacer, but will the Grams follower work well anyway with either pad? Thanks in advance.

I heard in multiple threads that Unique meters poorly in the 550, maybe it's because I have a used press which has already been broken in, but Unique dropped exactly 4.9gn every tenth round using a beam scale (I guess if I were using a digital scale I could tell +/-.01gn).

I shot a match with my TS last night and discovered something I though would be helpful to others here: -First stage ran perfect -Second stage had two FTF This is the same BVAC ammo I've used in this gun since day one (180gn FMJ, 1.125" OAL, 185PF) -After stage two I run to the safe area and drench the gun in oil: slide, guide rod, barrel -Third stage seems to have a FTF every other shot! -After stage three I run out to the car and use cleaning patches to wipe off the entire gun, in and out. No solvent, just wipe it as clean as I could get it (ran a brush down the bore dry). Reassemble, wipe it down again and return. -Fourth stage took a little push to go into battery at LAMR, but ran flawless -Fifth stage ran flawless I though this gun ran better a little dirty so I don't usually clean it before a match, just lube, but it seems the lube just made it worse. I use Slide Guide, but after the FTF I drenched it in Hoppe's oil, obviously that was a poor choice. I found when I wiped it clean, there was still SG soaked into the metal; at this point I feel that's the best state for this gun: clean, dry, with SG residue on it. What do you guys do?

I would call EAA and arrange to send it back to them; I wouldn't mess around with that crack in the mag well.