kneelingatlas

HS-6?

Here's the load data if anyone is interested: I shot a few mags with 124s, then 135s of the same PF, the 135s were maybe a hair softer, but that could have been my imagination; they must have been a tick quieter because they had less powder, so that might have been the only difference.

My buddy and I started reloading recently and I've been gathering lots of data (this forum is a great resource); we started with some 9 minor, then 40 minor, 40 major and today I tested my first 9 major rounds. The first question I want to ask is about the primers: I used CCI SRP which didn't flatten out as bad as some of the 9 major brass at the range after a match, but the primer seemed to expand into the firing pin well slightly. I remained consistent with all the loads from 153-179 PF, below is a picture with 124gn loads on top and 135gn loads on the bottom, highest PF on the left: I shot two different pistols: my CZ TS (5.1" barrel) and a small frame Tanfoglio (4.1" barrel), the primers seemed consistent between the two. No big deal?

I'm sorry to hear you're having so much trouble Eric although I do appreciate the info; I was debating buying a GT conversion for my Hunter (I had always just assumed the GT would have a long chamber like my Match), but given your woes and the fact that my small frames run flawlessly I might opt to drill some barrel ports in one of them.

Whats wrong with the mags marked "k9"? which mags do we need...i am referring to a stock 2 because thats what it came with. Nothing, K9s are the best thing going for a large frame Tanfoglio, the "old mags" were shiny blued with a T in a triangle stamped on them and had a spacer in the front; they're scrap metal unless you drill out the welds, remove the spacer and load loooong (like .38 super long).

I love the direction this thread has turned! There is a great debate to be had here surrounding the concept of "intellectual property" and it's rational legitimacy in a free market. I doubt the mod squad would enjoy a philosophical debate on the subject here, but I encourage anyone interested in the subject to check out a book called It's a Jetsons' World by Jeffery Tucker available for free in pdf and audiobook all over the internet.

The short reset trigger CZC developed uses a custom disconnector SAO pistols don't have a disconnector. The CGW kit addresses slack in the firing pin block lifter, but if you're not shooting Production you can simply remove the FPB. If your pistol still has a block, that's where the majority of your take up is, a race hammer with shorter hooks will also reduce travel. Your trigger has both pre travel and over travel screws right?

Short reset trigger for SAO?

That's surprising, I loaded some 135gn CMJs to 1.155 and they chambered fine in my CZ, my small frame and large frame Tanfo barrels. What's wrong with the mags? Are you using K9s?

This is what my TS safety looks like: With what you're describing, the cam that blocks the sear leg is probably much smaller.

I'm dying to know how these zinc bullets worked out. Which pistol are you testing them through? compensated? I'm thinking a zinc slug over a case full of HS6 could be a pretty awesome 9 Minor load. Looks like I better add bullet casting to my list of hobbies

No, I'll take a picture of my TS safety tonight for comparison

Brando, when you pull the trigger, is the safety fully in safe position? or does it get pushed down? If it stays up I agree it's a misfit between sear leg and safety, but I wouldn't buy a new sear just yet; most likely it's the safety which has too much metal removed. What type of hammer is installed? have you changed the hammer since it was new? a hammer with deeper hooks will make the sear/safety fit looser. It sounds like you have two distinct issues, is the safety detent in place and in good shape? good spring tension? That's the first place I'd look when diagnosing mushy safety engagement. Since you have other CZs, I would first try swapping safeties with another pistol. Good luck.

My suggestion is to do a deep cleaning of the pistol, re-assemble with light lube and the 11# recoil spring, load some proper 9 Major loads using a 124gn CMJ and HS-6, then all your problems might just go away. If you don't have HS-6, Autocomp, Silluette, 124gn CMJ or JHPs I'm sure someone does locally and is willing to trade/sell a little to you. I really like Unique too, but it's too fast for compensated pistols.

That looks pretty fast, any ETA? I've been kicking around the idea of bobbing one of my spare hammers, it just hasn't made it to the top of the list yet.

That should tell you something...

.378 rings a bell

Yes, the MecGar mags should work without modification; pre 1988 models are the only ones with hard to find mags, everything newer uses the cz75 mags (or close to it...)

I don't know how relevant this info is, but 5.5gn of Unique in 9mm (1.146" OAL) pushing a 124gn CMJ made 146 PF for me, but is very soft.

I lucked into one in stock at CZ USA about six months ago, if I'd have known what a treasure they are I would have bought three! That being said, the stock hammer has a lot of potential as well, with a good polish job I got my pull weight under two pounds. The race hammer didn't so much reduce the pull weight, but it cut the travel in half! The hooks on the race hammer are really just a groove. The next best thing to the race hammer is a felt wheel and automotive polishing compound on the stock hammer; put a mirror shine on the hooks, the sides, the inside of the frame well, and the hammer strut.

Do you have anyone in your club with a CZ 75 pattern pistol you can borrow for the match? If you were closer I'd let you borrow one of mine. I would buy/borrow another Production pistol before I shot L10 Minor at a big match.

Yes, just lift the spring leg and rest it on the sear cage to the left; Tanfoglios actually have a little grove for it to rest in. There is also a little retainer on the right hand safety which will most likely fall out when you remove the sear cage, it's not under spring tension so it won't fly, but if can give you trouble. If you drench the whole area in oil before dissassembly it will help it all stay put. I've never compressed the detent on the left side while pulling out the safety, but it make sense that would make it easier (as long as you have three hands ).

Steve, the long leg of the sear spring is the key, lift it out of the groove in the safety shaft and the left side safety will pull out of the safety cage.

The CZC SRT disco bears more resemblence to the stock Tanfo one than the stock CZ one, but the CZC one is has a fatter wedge on the front, which is where the short reset comes from. The CGW prototype is a different shape altogether, I'm excited to try one out! I have a Canik Shark (Tristar T120) in the mail I hope to tune to Shadow-like performance, one of these new discos might be just what the doctor ordered.

Polish, polish, polish! Hammer hooks, sear, disconnector hooks, trigger bar, most important of all the trigger plunger: the shaft and the head (...that doesn't sound right...) You could also use a reduced power trigger return spring, trigger plunger spring and hammer spring.