kneelingatlas

I bought a Blade Tech DOH which was advertised for an EAA/Tanfoglio Limited, but it turns out to be a little short and a Stock II fits perfectly, anyone want to trade?

Shoot it up! Ackley would be proud! Disclaimer: this is not actual advice, please use discretion when discharging firearms

Production gun?!?

That's interesting indeed...

So with the buffer installed, the spring would go solid and transfer the impulse into the barrel lug and slide stop?

I enjoy the science of Open just as much as the shooting so I have experimented with a lot of comps/loads in my 9. Whenever I can I try to shoot other Open guns and have yet to find one that shoots flatter. There is a lot of theory to support the idea that 38s should shoot flatter, but a surprising amount of shooters (mostly M class) who let me try their 38s were not that interested in load development. It would be interesting to play with a 38 to see what I could do with it, but I'm really happy shooting my nines.

Very cool, I like the canvas drop cloths!

My shooting buddy and I were given a 550 by a co worker and since he's a bachelor and I have three small kids, we set up the press at his house; we generally load together, taking turns at the press, but on a few occasions time has been short and he's knocked out a few hundred rounds for me before a match. I feel pretty comfortable shooting ammo he loads, but I'm not sure I would shoot the reloads of a stranger. I understand the costs of getting set up are a real barrier to entry for new reloaders to I always suggest they find a friend with a press, buy some components and trade them for reloading lessons. You crank the handle all night while a seasoned reloader looks over your shoulder, it sounds like a win-win to me

Harry, back out the elevation screw all the way and the sight should hinge up exposing set screws in the dovetail.

It's nothing I know for sure, just a theory I'm trying to test. So when the action cycles the slide travels rearward and at some point stops, then travels forward again; we all know the recoil spring (as well as the hammer spring and friction in the rest of the action) slows the slide down as it goes back and it also accelerates it on it's way forward, but what causes it to stop? I can imagine three possible scenarios: 1. The energy on the slide is completely exhausted before fully compressing the spring. 2. The slide compresses the spring until the coils touch (going solid) 3. The slide stops against the frame The first is certainly possible with a heavy enough recoil spring, but I don't think the pistol would cycle correctly if this was the case. From what I've read there seems to be mixed opinions whether #2 or #3 is the 'proper' way for a pistol to function. When using a buffer the whole idea is that the buffer absorbs the peak energy at the limit of slide tavel so it seems to me for the buffer to actually do anything the spring must go solid, this was the case with my factory TS buffer. It also makes sense to me that the recoil spring would wear out quickly in this situation. Once the spring is worn, the maximum slide energy as the spring goes solid should increase, were you wearing out buffers before the lug cracked? The spring going solid would also put a lot of pressure on the slide stop which would fit with the CZs' reputation for breaking slide stops. A test to see if #2 or #3 is the case: pull the side all the way to the rear and mark the slide and frame with pencil match lies, the repeat with the recoil spring removed and compare. It the marks line up the second time, the slide is stopping on the frame, if the slide goes back further the spring is going solid. My guess is that the spring was going solid with your setup, but I would love to know.

Moon, were you using a buffer? aftermarket recoil spring? Stainless steel guiderod? What I'm wondering is: in the most rearward position of the slide was it contacting the frame or was the spring going solid?

Great deal on a .40 Limited Pro on GB: http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=406054274

Thank you for trusting a tape measure over the nonsense CZ USA and CZC continue to perpetuate Very nice shooting by the way!

Here are the steps for a CZ, for purposes of routine cleaning it's essentially the same. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=191773&page=1

It also depends on the shooter's goals: to be a GM? to place in a major match? or simply to enjoy some Saturdays with his dad doing something they both enjoy. In other words, do you want to work or play? Personally, I have a shoebox full of National/Junior Olympic metals from shooting pistols 20 years ago and now I have a wife and young kids so traveling to major matches doesn't appeal to me much. I'm here to build/shoot great guns and have a little fun with the guys once or twice a month.

A G34 based Open gun should be capable of flat shooting, I shot some of my CZ Open loads through an Open G19 and it was fun, but felt like it was coming apart!

147gr @ 1.136" over 3.0gr Clays makes 133pf out of my 4.5" CZ barrel.

Have you tried 115s?

Excellent choice!

My mistake, you're absolutely right

I'm on it!

Germans don't do redneck, Germans do beer! http://www.adforum.com/creative-work/ad/player/65

Ream it! From my "Redneck Gunsmithing" thread: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=171217&page=1

Using .40 CAL 140mm STI mag tubes and using Taran Tactical Spring/Follower/4G2 Basepad, I get 20+1 and is SUPER RELIABLE My point exactly I can think of no way in which the TS is inferior to a 2011 pistol.

There are no DA hooks on the hammer (the second set of hooks are the half-cock hooks), the 'hooks' for DA are on the disco and the trigger bar. I made this diagram back when everyone started talking about SRTS; they're pretty intuitive, so everyone seems to be using similar terms: The DA shot breaks when the disco lifts up and the hooks on the front of the wings slip off the trigger bar. In SA where the back of the wedge catches the trigger bar is determines the trigger position when your finger is off the trigger so if the wedge is too wide (as in the gunsmith fit version) the trigger will not reset in SA mode. I knew if I ground down the wedge until it reset, I would still have slack in the FPB lifter before the trigger bar contacted the sear to release the hammer, so I ground the 'foot' of the FPB lifter and the corresponding spot on the trigger bar where it resets. I had no idea how much to take off, so I guessed and by chance it ended up perfect just remember it's easy to take off more metal, much harder to put it back... This is why I put this part in the 'advanced' section