harryorwell

i was wondering if anyone has ever tried Slip 2000 on gun barrels in a small container. This stuff seems to do a bang up job on my shotgun chokes and other small parts and I think it would be a snap for pistol barrels but i havent seen anyone endorse it for this use so i'm worried there is some reason i don't know about. I realize you have to lub and protect after you use Slip. Anyone have any input on this? Thx in advance. HL

I have done a complete rework of a 22/45 lite with Volquartsen parts. The single and only part I have not replaced is the diabolical switchblade like sickle torture device they call the main spring. I swear the devil designed this gun. Anyway I now have a 1 3/4 pound trigger pull that is very nice and crisp but it is a little too light for my taste. I'm not sure if something is wrong or its just supposed to be that light. I noticed that there is a little play between the hammer bushing and the trigger bar/disconnector that I don't remember seeing in other 22/45's but I don't have another one for reference and I'm sure they would frown upon me taking down a new one at the LGS. Can someone here tell me if that loosness is typical or if it may have a problem that may cause the light pulls. If someone has some insight as to the best way to add a little pull weight I'm all ears. Thanks in advance.

I have a 22/45 lite that i have fully modified with Volquartsen upgrades. I havent had many issues with it until this past weekend. I'm getting a failure to reset the trigger on the last round of my magazines. It happened almost every time on both mags i took to the range. The round looks seated properly when it happens but the trigger is not cocked so nothing happens when its pulled. All i have to do to get the round to fire is reseat the round with a half cock of the bolt. Then it fires fine. This only happens on the last round of the magazine. I didnt have an issue like this on any other rounds. I just can't seem to make sense of this. I am running standard OEM mags and I was shootiing federal Automatch and some winchester high velocity ammo but it failed on both kinds. Anyone know why this is happening?

I think it's ammo too...I'm going to spot check a number of them.

I'm running the CGW recoil spring...14#. I don't think I'm bumping the slide. I keep my thumbs off the gun mostly.

I know there is probably a thread with this info but i get a thousand hits when i try and search. I got some aluminum grips from CGW and they don't exactly line up well enough to get the screws in properly and i have read to watch out for this. I was wondering if I should remove a bit of material from the grip to get them to fit or file the frame of the gun where the grip touches the frame. Logic tells me to work on the grip but that is the more difficult of the options as far as i can tell. what say the CZ efficianodos? If it matters its a 75 compact.

Update...talked to CGW and they confirmed i did "mostly" everything correctly. They said the firing pin retainer pin should be situated at 12 o'clock but i don't think that was the problem. I took my XDm and my shadow with me this time and i was able to fire the rounds that had off center strikes. I was even able to fire one of them through my compact. This confirms it was a feeding issue as some of the gurus here suggested. I ran about 100 rounds through it of both remanufactured and off the shelf ammoi. I did have two instances of the same issue i think. on two different mags i had a failure to fire. both times the round didnt make it all the way into battery. only these two times it was so far off the firing pin didn't actually touch the primer. Incidentally on the rounds that do fire properly there is a much larger firing pin indentation than on the off center hits wich makes sense also. I cleaned the gun thuroughly after i bought and before i had this issue. I will do the same again now to eliminate a feeding issue because of it being dirty. so that leaves me thinking there is some kind of inherent feeding problem...on occasion. which on a carry gun doesnt sit well. I havent read or heard of that being a problem with CZ's. Do you guys recommend some polishing of the feed ramp or something else to fix this issue? I usually run my guns pretty dry but maybe i should increase the lube. Maybe there is some other mod for this. As always any help is greatyly appreciated.

I don't have a caliper but its on my list...now. how much length are we talking about? is it a perceptible amount? I can't see a decernable difference between some off the shelf Fiocchi rounds i have and the Freedom stuff that failed.

Failur to fire...I couldnt tell a difference between the pull and drop as opposed to the shots that fired. The pull is obviously lighter than it was with original parts and the sound of the hammer drop is different as you would expect. I checked the pin and FBP and all seems okay. The comments of improper feeding make more sense. I dont have a caliper...that should be in the book idea i referenced in the OP...but i can't see a difference in the round size compared to some fiocchi off the shelf i have.

Was this what happened? that's exactly the spot...what software do you guys use to draw in pics like that...very handy! By the way...i had the problem on the original disconnect and not the CGW part but i did have the new sear installed which makes sense.

This part time gunsmithing will make your ass crave stovewood! So I get all the CGW stuff installed on the compact i bought, Race hammer, SRS1 and a couple of others and finally got the range today. After my first mag I started to get FTF's. Upon checking i found what's in the attached pic. I tried about 8 or so fresh rounds and they all had the same result. I'm new to all this stuff so I'm clueless. It doesnt seem like this could be the result of any of the mod's i installed. I was shooting cheap remanufactured rounds from Freedom Arms but they havent given me any trouble in the past. For the record i made sure i had the CGW firing pin spring they sent along with the firiing pin retainer they sent. Also had the blue hammer spring installed. On a side note...Seems like I learn a very valuable (read expensive) lesson each time i try to do stuff like this...in this case it was that you should always shoot the gun first before you attempt any upgrades. Sure wish someone would have told me that first. So no...i don't know if this was a pre-existing condition. And no i'm not going to put all that old stuff back in to find out. Someone here needs to write a book about dumb ass mistakes not to make when modifying firearms...i'll buy two copies in case i lose one. At least i have managed not to shoot myself!

I just had this same exact problem and CGW told me exacly what to do. You have to chamfer the shoulders on your disconnect and you'll be home free. I still advise you to call them but I am sure that's the problem cause my compact was doing the same exact thing at the end of the pull. I took a strip of 600 grit paper and put the disconnect in a vice and slowly softened the edge of the shoulder on both sides. This is on the what i call the inside of the disco (inside the right angle). Then i did the same thing with a strip of 1200 grit to make it smooth. Once you take off that edge the hammer will fall without any hitch. You don't have to take off much...just round the edge of that shoulder.

thx for the quick reply...what springs do you run in these. I'm assuming they are Dawson as well but maybe wolfe or some others are better?

I made a trade for a used XDm 5.25 last year from a local that had a number of mods. I have most of the mod info but I didnt get the name of the mag extensions the guy put on the springfield mags he sold me. He sold me 5 total mags and two of them had extensions that allow 21 or 22 total depending on what day it is:) Anyway, I have been having some trouble lately with one of them locking up half way through loading. It has happened on both but one does it constantly. I want to take them apart and see what springs are used and to clean etc. but I can't figure out how to get the damn things apart nor can i identify them. They have a mark on them you will see in the pic but I am not an XDm afficianodo so i don't recognize it. Surely some of the XDm brotherhood can tell me who makes these, whether they are worth a sh%t and how to get them apart. Thanks in advance for your help.

If you get the Stainless Steel brake from CZC, it eliminates that annoying tab and makes switching out the hammer spring easier. Since it is also a little thicker, you don't have to worry about it bending and it is only $10. Already ordered...info overload...love this site!