kneelingatlas

You would need to use thread locker to keep the comp on although I'm working on mods to permanently fix the comp to the barrel and pull it out the front like a Tanfoglio. I don't have a good picture of my CZ comp handy, but this Tanfoglio picture shows it well between the stock three port in the center and modified one on the left. Since the first port does the bulk of the work I've found slightly enlarging to helps the effectiveness of the comp.

I shoot USPSA with a slight bend in my elbows, but I don't know if I'd say there's no application for locked joints, I used to shoot Olympic pistol with both elbows and knees locked

I have one and it's in my queue to be filmed both with no barrel ports and with two barrel ports.

I'm a big fan of light comps; Limited guns use weight to reduce muzzle flip, but Open guns can use comps and ports to do that. I opened up the first port of the comp a little (a fantastic mod by the way, I highly reccomend it), so the factory comp may weigh a hair more than this one, but I think if you hack the bottom off it, and put some ball cuts in the sides and bottom, you might shave an ounce off it, which would make it feel significantly lighter in the transitions. I also recommend using a plastic guide rod instead of a steel one to lose another ounce out of the nose. My next CZ open gun will use a custom comp made from either Ti or Aluminum.

1mm = 0.0394" and 1.1mm = 0.0433" Here are the spring diameters I measured on my CZ recoil springs: 10# - 0.0385" 11# - 0.0390" 12# - 0.0400" 13# - 0.0405" 14# - 0.0415"

Over the entire slide stroke yes, but we only want to concern ourselves with the first 7mm of movement before the front of the peanut crashes into the slide stop pin. Don't forget your wrists are doing work at the same time. You might be right that a square bottom firing pin stop would do the best job of protecting the lower lug, but I think it would do so at the cost of more muzzle flip. I guess I'm mixing my desire to reduce muzzle flip with gianmarko's wish to protect the lower lug of the barrel. To that end I think reducing the weight of the comp could reduce the stress on that area.

It looks like the source of the break was the slide stop pin pounding the front of the "peanut" this happens early in the recoil cycle and is what pulls the barrel down to unlock the upper lugs from the slide. This happens within the first 7mm of slide movement at which point the firing pin stop is beginning to cock the hammer spring with very little leverage, so if you wanted to slow down this first little bit of slide movement the recoil spring would have much less influence than the hammer spring. Like I said, I'm just starting to visualize the importance of the firing pin stop and hammer spring weight in the recoil cycle, so I'm not ready to make definitive claims, just thinking out loud It seems like a heavier hammer spring would help, but with the same firing pin stop angle it would create more muzzle flip. If you change the angle so that it contacts the hammer higher up giving it more leverage on the spring you could maintain a higher force for longer. Real world testing to follow...

What weight springs are you using for recoil and hammer springs? I think the hammer spring/firing pin stop angle might have more to do with the break in the picture. I'm just starting to experiment with firing pin stop angles, but I think the 2011 guys are way ahead of us in that department.

Nice shooting by the way Jake!

I love the relative anonymity of the internet! There's no easy way to tell if the guy you're schooling on technique is a struggling B class shooter or a GM Mick, here's a sample of Jake's shooting:

I'm sorry to hear that.

Very cool!

Very strange, are they all the same?

I've always used a horizontally mounted slide ride and when I tried the RTS2 I found it to be too high with too small a lens.

What sized groups do you get at 20 yards?

I tried it for the weight, then switched back.

When the gun cycles, the barrel moves back relative to the frame ~7mm so in the case of Garmil's setup the comp would impact the frame, but the Tanfoglio factory comps are designed to work with full dust cover frames, so they clear the frame rails. I shot the gun above like it is without issue, it just wears on the sides of the comp a little and looks a little off. More than anything I prefer short dust covers on my Open guns to cut down on the weight; the all steel guns like CZs and Tanfoglios get pretty heavy once you add a dot and comp (especially the CZ which uses a steel comp as opposed to the aluminum one on the Tanfoglios). Limited guns use the weight of the gun to mitigate recoil and muzzle flip, but in Open guns that's the job of the compensator, so the extra weight just slows you down in transition. There are some who like a heavy Open gun (50+oz), but I prefer them in the low 40oz range.

Is there a particular coating you're considering which you fear may pierce armor?

I see you were pretty conservative with the saw, I found each inch of DC weighs ~1.3oz.

The downside is that the Gold Team uppers are hard to find and expensive. Your best bet is to get a barrel/comp to drop into your Limited, what caliber is it?

The current Gold Team is 1/4" shorter than the Limited, so unless you cut back the dust cover it looks like this: Luckily a chop saw makes quick work of a dust cover

Pretty well, although I think my custom Tanfoglio is just as good

1. Traditional 1911 terms don't translate to Tanfoglio, but as far as the barrels, the 6" barrel functions like a "bushing barrel", but it can be used with a "bull barrel" style comp or "cone comp" depending on the slide you use. The barrel of a Tanfoglio exits the slide at a different angle of a 2011 so the CFD comp wouldn't work well with on a Tanfoglio. What you want is a straight barrel and a cone comp, either the three port factory comp or a custom one. 2. It's a cone comp, but you'd have to ask Eric about part numbers.

Dawson Awesome cone comp for 2011 (this is a project that hasn't panned out yet ) The other you circled is an aluminum airsoft comp, drilled and tapped for small frame Tanfo/CZ

I've been obsessed with Open guns for the past three years, so I want to share some of what I've learned: