PatJones

It's my understanding that the notches are intentionally longer, and off center from where that used to be. This was one of the changes made to the guns a part of the "endurance package" the gun writers like to talk about. The magnum guns were unlocking during recoil and the new design helps with that. If you deepen the notches you will alter the timing of the cylinder stop and you may run into problems. What is your trigger pull weight? Below 6.5 lbs i find that i skip by chambers when i hesitate on a sight picture. It's a user error, but a little extra weight on the trigger completely eliminates it for me.

Not that long, you'll be good at your first match. You'll be very aware that you have an extra two. The only mistakes I made were when I got flustered and lost track of where I was at.

Bo Clerk passed away last year. http://www.assra.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?num=1335879100/0

Senior moment? I almost typed Patridge rear sight last night. I'm only 43. If you have access to the facilities, sights can be parkerized and then blued before installation. It makes for the darkest matte black you can imagine.

Kirby, Did you use a .312 barrel or a .308? The .308 diameter bullet selection seems a little better in the heavier bullets.

I do this as well, but I use the correct hand. On little guns like my j-frame I move my support hand thumb to the back my shooting hand and press down on the base of my thumb behind the web.

All open sights are effected by light to some extent. With side lights we tend to hold the front sight off center to allow equal amounts of light to enter on both sides of the front sight. This makes it look more equal to the eye but it causes the firearm shoot to one side. A small radius at the top of the sight blade can catch a glare and this can change the apparent height of the sight blade. This can effect the elevation of the shot. Cowboy guns are particularly susceptible to this. For my eyes I like a front sight with a vertical or nearly vertical rear face and a sharp edge at the top. I do not like painted or colored sights, but I don't mind a fiber optic insert in a black face. I zero my sights in neutral light and I don't worry about it beyond that. I believe you are confused as to what a Patridge front sight is. A Patridge front sight has a vertical rear face and provides a sight picture similar to the undercut sight you mention. From Keith's Sixguns:

Over the years I've found that universal clays seems to lead less for me. Even in my old colt with the oversized throats. My current .38 load is a 158 rn from Colorado Cast Bullets over 4.5 gr of Universal. I intentionally put over 400 rounds thru without cleaning as a test and there was no change in accuracy.

I forgot to note that the Bladetech I have is the production-legal version not their race holster.

I have both the bladetech and the double alpha racemaster. The racemaster is about 4 tenths quicker for me. I do not own a Glock, but the double alpha draws really smooth for me. As noted before it accepts n frames of any barrel length without adjustment. I've used mine with a 617 in practice, but it was a bit loose with the smaller revolver. The blade tech works well and I don't spend the day checking the lock on the holster. It draws a lot smoother after I lubricated it with silicone. I've used this with the 617 as well and it feels more secure for practice.

I recently removed my Weigand rear blade from my 627. I loved the sight picture with the .140 rear blade but it kept bending down over time causing the gun to lose elevation. I straightened it a couple times but stopped trusting it. I used a small endmill to open up a factory rear to the same notch dimensions. The corners are a bit crisper than the notches I've done by hand. My old blade wiggled as well, it was never a problem as it was loose enough to settle to the same position between shots. I installed one for a buddy and his was tighter, it would not settle between shots causing vertical stringing. I loosened the nut on the left side of the sight a bit and it helped.

I was getting inconsistent reloads with my old double-stacked moon rack. I find it much easier to find a moon on a single high rack without looking. I bent the kydex into a curve to fit my waist when i built it. The 15 degree angle makes it easier to grab the clips all the way to the left (strong hand reload).

I wanted a single-high rack that works with six and eight shot moons. I couldn't find exactly what I was looking for so I built this one.

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Loading moon clips at a match isn't any worse than stuffing magazines. You just need the proper tools to do it. You will want extra moons in case one gets bent. The moon clips for a 625 are about 50 cents each, vs $4-$5 each for the .38's.

I put a detent ball behind the spring on my DX front sight. The Dawson front sight needed a little more spring pressure to stay in. I assume the Wiegand base uses the same plunger system.

Apex isn't currently taking in work other than j-frame carry or M&P work.

Why all of this talk about speedloaders? The typical gun shop in the US doesn't even have enough of them on the wall to complete a USPSA stage nevermind a way to hang them on your belt.

It seems to me that the vast majority of these "6-shot minor" guns are chambered in a caliber that easily makes major power factor. .357 magnum.

All of the 625s are cut for moonclips from the factory. They reload faster with the big holes, but there is more recoil. They score major power factor in USPSA, but I don't believe there is an advantage on steel. They would definitely do better on pins than your 686. Most of us that do not choose to shoot IDPA prefer a longer barrel than the 4" that is currently manufactured. There are some long barreled model 25s out there in blued steel if you're shopping. I shoot a 627PC, my ICORE Limited rig. I shoot Limited 10 at USPSA. The combat league at the indoor range I work at doesn't differentiate by equipment or power factor so the extra 2 rounds are nice when trying to beat the bottom feeders. The 8-shot guns are not currenty allowed in USPSA Revolver division, but this may change. They offer a real advantage if shooting steel or ICORE. You could have your 686 cut for moonclips. They can be faster than speedloaders but not by much. I was schooled pretty good last year by a master class shooter with speedloaders. Be aware that if you use .38/357 brass with moonclips (your 686 or a 627) you need to be particular about the brand of brass you use. The undercut in front of the rim is not standardized. Thicker moonclips are more rigid and they reload much faster. Remington brass has the largest undercut and allows for the thickest moonclips. The factory moonclips are crap, they are really thin to accomodate any brand of brass and this makes them really floppy. Thirty eight caliber moonclips are quite frankly a pain in the ass, but you can have 2 extra shots.

The grips on the 625PC are two piece grips. Jerry's grips are one piece and are made for him by Hogue. I like mine a lot.

We just got a 625PC into the shop a couple weeks back. They look like Jerry grips from a distance but they are much flatter. They feel pretty bad in the hand, nothing like the Jerry grips I have on my 627. You'll be much happier with a real set from Bang inc.

A .30 caliber ammo can holds 52 8 shot moonclips loaded with .38 special. They stack up very neatly. I have a brass bag i use to segregate the fired moons in the ammo can.

The thicker moon clips offer a much better reload, just keep in mind they only fit particular brands of brass. I use Remington brass with mine, Winchester will not work. What brand of brass you you already have?

Many of these guns are chambered in .357 and can make major.