PatJones

Hey, I shoot my production rig in ICORE too, my S&W 627.

In the above photos you can see how low he red dot is. It also shows how clear the dot is on the C-More slide ride scopes. The little C-Mores are not as nice in this regard. The S&W revolvers with the rear sight that is rounded at the front are pre-drilled for scope use and this will drop right on. -pat

I installed one of these on a customers 627 this fall. It indexes just like open sights. I'll see if i can post a Picture -pat

If you have a factory 8-shot revolver with open sights and no compensator as I do you can shoot: ICORE Limited. Boatload of fun, come on out and shoot. USPSA Limited 10 or Production. We fit best in production where everyone scores minor. Limited 10 allows major scoring for .40 caliber and up. Any external modifications other than sight changes are illegal in production so if you have something like a bobbed hammer shoot Limited 10. If you have an open front race holster, shoot Limited 10. As stated by Bosshoss, we can shoot in revolver division but only if we reload after 6 rounds. This seems like a recipe for trouble given how often I click on round #9. I have not shot steel challenge, but I believe we're welcome there. I understand we can shoot 8 shot guns in IDPA if we load _only_ 6 shots and click through the empty chambers. Also, they have a 4" barrel limitation for revolvers. -pat

I second this. This problem combined with aging eyes led to the retirement of my 4 station progressive. -pat

The L frame revolvers (Mod 686 and it's cousins) have more room for speedloaders. The L-frame is taller to allow for more metal around the forcing cone, this makes the yoke taller too so the cylinder protrudes further to the left when it's open. Thinner grips will benefit a K Frame. -pat

I second the question of what length you seat your 158 gr Berry's at. I started with 3.1 grains of Clays under a 158 gr Berry's seated at 1.500 in .38 brass and I only got 575 fps over the chrono. -pat

I went with a Dropped & Offset holster from Blade Tech for my 627. Kydex seemed a little more durable with all the draws I'll be doing. The kydex does rub the finish, but it's a dedicated competition gun so that's ok to me. It's also production legal; my 8 shot gun isn't welcome in revo. The Bianchi "Cup Challenge" 002 holster is a good value and quicker than mine: http://www.brownells.com/shooting-accessories/holsters-belt-gear/holsters/002-cup-challenge-revolver-holster-prod12485.aspx#.UK-NB4bhfro Someone who owns one may have to chime in, but I believe the basket weave one has some sort of leather lining over the plastic. Virtually all of the local ICORE crowd use this holster. For speedloaders you definitely want the Safariland Comp III's: http://www.brownells.com/shooting-accessories/speedloaders-accessories/cylinder-speedloaders/comp-iii-speedloader-prod12501.aspx#.UK-PSIbhfro you will want the 002 ones for the K frame. Safariland makes 2 styles of speedloader holders: http://www.brownells.com/shooting-accessories/speedloaders-accessories/speedloader-holders-carriers/speedloader-holder-prod12496.aspx#.UK-Qbobhfro http://www.brownells.com/shooting-accessories/speedloaders-accessories/speedloader-holders-carriers/333-speedloader-carrier-prod12500.aspx#.UK-RDYbhfro I shoot moonclips, so I don't really know what the best option is for holders. .38 is easy to load for. Bring more ammo to the line than needed to complete the stage. Revo shooters make more tactical reloads. Welcome to revo, reloading is fun. -pat

Sounds like you have excess cylinder endshake; the loose fit of the cylinder is allowing it to drag on the rear of the barrel. Have a qualified gunsmith eliminate the endshake and go thru the gun to make sure it is in factory spec. A good article about endshake can be found here: http://www.grantcunningham.com/blog_files/3209f130b2430cae4129a3f52ac0d2d5-127.html -pat

The recess helps guard against objects bumping the crown but most crown damage I see comes from improper cleaning. -pat

It is not uncommon for at least one of the grooves of a barrel to be slightly deeper than the others. It's usually only a half thousandth or less, but if the crown is cut at an angle that groove will release the gasses after the other grooves. This can kick the base of the bullet sideways as it exits the bore. The flip side is that it is easier to damage a 90 degree crown. With a little care this isn't a problem though. -pat

Believe me, if I had enough speed loader holders for my belt and a couple more speed loaders I'd show up next month with the 629. 240 gr lead at 1200. You think 288 PF would put them down? I might be a wee bit tired at the end of the day though. -pat

Is it a 686 no dash? The hammer nose bushings were replaced under a factory recall. As a police officers gun, the work was likely done at the department by a factory trained armorer. After driving the bushing into the frame you file the hamer nose bushing flush with the breech face. Those look like coarse file marks to me. If the gun functions correctly, i would leave them alone. Removing the marks will increase headspace. -pat

Some of my hits were better than others, but all were in the calibration zone. I like the extra velocity I get with the 125 gr bullets and selected the load because it should be very similar to what the 9mm guys are shooting. Some of the other shooters exprienced a couple problems too, but I think only two other shooters in my squad were shooting minor. While I'd like a load that drops steel more reliably, how do you handle things when the steel is set too heavy? None of the local matches here use chronos and I was getting a few looks. I used a chronograph to develop my load and I'm confident I was making minor. -pat

I shoot a S&W 627 in USPSA production class. I am scored minor and would prefer not to shoot magnum loads. I have been competing a couple times a month this summer, but not untill Sunday did I have a problem with steel not falling. The first popper just _barely_ fell with a 9 after I challenged the calibration, so after it failed on a the next guy shooting .40 major it was re-adjusted and I got a reshoot. The steel was set pretty firmly for the whole match, and it did cost me some time. I understand that there will be occasional problems shooting minor with poorly set steel, but what loads do you folks shoot to minimize these problems? I have been loading a 125 gr Berry's over 6.1 grains of Unique in Remington .38 special brass with Federal primers. It chronographs at 1080 out of my revolver for a power factor of 135. It was in the 50's Sunday, a little cooler than what I've been shooting in all summer, but it should not have made a huge difference. I bought 500 158 grain bullets on the way home from the match as I was told these drop steel a little more reliably. I also picked up a pound of clays as this is what most of the ICORE locals are using. Anyone have any thoughts? It's awfully frustrating to nail all the poppers in a stage only to have to go back and shoot them again. -- Pat Jones

Good luck tomorrow. Have fun.

How long is it taking to have a new user account approved for global village?

I'm running the .140 rear paired with a .125 front from Dawson. I've shot the SDM gold bead but prefer the smaller fiber optic on the Dawson sights. It allows for a better sight picture on long shots.

The SDM works well for me.

I am fortunate enough to live in an area with an ICORE match held each month. I purchased a 627 for ICORE Limited and I shoot this in USPSA production as well. If you want more revolver shooters, the rules should be changed to accept more revolvers. 6-shot guns only? 4" barrels only? No thanks, there's too many other games where my equipment is welcome. -Pat Jones Longmont Colorado

I just dealt with this for a customer. Extractors have always been a factory fit part, only recently have they started to sell them individually. In a S&W revolver it is the width of the hand that carries the cylinder up to the next chamber. A new extractor has teeth that are too wide to fit a hand to. This wide tooth prevents your hand from slipping by and ties up your revolver. There is a tool called a "cutting hand" that is a hardened hand used to make the final cut to each tooth of the extractor. The parts are installed in your revolver, the cutting hand replacing your normal hand, and the extractor is cut to fit _your_ gun. You could probably fit a new extractor by careful filing of each tooth with a barret file, but it would be easy to take too much off one of the teeth. The factory told me it would cost $45 to fit a new extractor, but they did not charge me for the work. We did have to ship the firearm back to the factory. -- Patrick Jones Longmont Colorado