PatJones

Looking at the topic, I thought you were talking about classifiers.

You need an auxiliary moon system to the rear for prone stages anyway. I have a couple kydex post holders behind my right hip.

I'm currently using a .100 front and a .125 rear. I'm considering ordering a custom .115 rear from Hamilton Bowen

I've been shooting Unique for years. It's not dirty at all.

Sweet

It's just smaller runs of unique firearms, that's all it's ever been. No change.

The pins at the back of the Rhino's cylinder that form the ratchet would get awfully tight if you added too many more.

What you're not looking at is the space behind the case. Headspace literally means the space behind the head. Different cartridge types control this through different surfaces. All firearms, even bolt action rifles need a little space behind the casehead to operate the action. SAAMI specifies cartages with an appropriate headspace measurement after taking into account their pressure and action type. As an example, a revolver needs more clearance around the casehead to turn a cylinder full of cartridges against the breechface than a bolt action rifle needs to rotate the bolt closed. Engineers handle this for us, that's why we have SAAMI. If you look at the SAAMI spec for 45 ACP, the maximum allowable headspace is 0.032. This is a huge number in headspace world, 40 S&W has a maximum headspace of .022. many rifle cartridges allow only .010. I didn't measure it, but the photo shows a gap larger than .032 inch. With the shoulder at the front of the chamber, it provides a great place for crud to build up. We don't have a big spring to chamber the round, revolvers only use gravity. Smith solved this problem by cutting the chambers deeper than the SAAMI spec. There's still a shoulder in there, but the cartridge doesn't touch it. This allows the cartridge to drop freely into the chamber. The late model 625s headspace off from their moonclips. I believe the old model 25s headspace off from the case mouth, but when they're dirty you might need to seat the clip with a little push. That's not ideal in practical shooting.

That's not the case in my 625-4

I build rifles for a living. I use a recessed 90° crown on the rifles I build. If you measure the grooves in the rifling on a cut rifle barrel, you will see that the grooves very in depth due to the manufacturing process. In an angled crown, the the shallower lands will release the gas sooner than the deeper ones. This can kick the base of the bullet slightly to one side as it leaves the barrel. Flat crowns are easily damaged by improper cleaning. An angled crown is much more resistant to cleaning rod damage. In handgun world, especially our game, I don't think there's any noticable accuracy difference between different crown types as long as they're straight. I think the durability of an angled crown wins out in our application.

I too like a snappy rebound. I cut 4 coils off an 11 lb rebound spring and drop it into the rebound slide with the largest detent ball that will fit in there with it. This changes the spring rate, It's a little stiffer at full compression due to the springs shorter length.

Stance was different back in the day. If you're shooting weaver, a cross draw isn't necessary behind the 180.

It's been a few years since I've had the sight out, and this is from memory so bear with me. My old Dawson sight had a smaller foot on it than my current one does. The new ones stay in better than the ones from 8 year's ago did. I don't remember if I had to take the detent ball out to get the new sight in. Take the sight out. There's a small pin that retains the spring. Drive that out, take out all the parts, and put a small detent ball behind the spring. I do remember it wasn't the biggest detent ball that would fit in the hole. Resemble. A longer spring would do the same thing if you have one, we're just using the detent ball as a spacer to increase spring pressure. If you're changing sights regularly you might find the added spring tension to be a pain. I never change my sight.

I wouldn't want to throw more than one moonclip on the moonclip server while the clock is running. I have a couple double-post kydex moonclip holders behind the hip for table starts and prone stages. They're also used to load from at make ready.

Be aware the DX front sights can come off if you catch them on the edge of a port. I have a detent ball behind the front sight spring of my 627 to increase the tension on the sight blade.

Huh?

Do you load weak hand? I load strong hand and I picked up the moonclip server specifically so I could sweep back with my strong hand like you describe. After my server is empty I have what used to be a North Mountain rack behind my holster. With a traditional moon rack across the front of my belt the last 2 reloads of each stage was costing me more than a tenth.

Are you trying to shoot a match that doesn't offer revolver division?

I always struggled with taking the moons off from the double stack holders in a manner where I didn't have to search around for one by the end of a course of fire. I spent a few years with a homemade single high kydex model, but I've since picked up a moonclip server. The moonclip server allows me to put my hand on a moonclip without looking down or fishing around for it. It's the only piece of equipment I've ever bought that I can say actually saves me time on the clock. I do have a double post north mountain rig behind my hip for empty table starts, but I've had to rebuild every part on it except for the Tek-Loks.

That would be awesome

There's also http://www.dsperman.com/products/default.html

My every day J frame is a model 60 ladysmith; No lock with a hammer nose mounted on bobbed hammer. I've not really tuned anything on it, the trigger pull is fine as is.

My old 625 "Model of 1989" is running at 6.25-6.5, no special treatment. It still has its hammer spur too. If need be, you can adjust hammer nose protrusion by filling the face of the hammer slightly.

And sometimes they just step on them instead... I think they're just jealous

I do not own a 929, but on my 625 I put the sharp edge towards the case head and the rolled edge towards the cylinder. On my 45, more of them pass the moon clip checker this way.