alecmc

I'm confused here. The apex hammers do not have any single action mode. How can it " still " be % FTF in single action mode with the apex hammer...when the apex hammer doesn't have single action notch.

Sort of defeats the purpose doesn't it? Nobody to my knowledge makes them.

"full seated" is the correct answer. I've got a 1050, so I can set a consistent primer depth at .009 below flush. ( sweet zone is between 008 and 010 IMO ) You want to eliminate any "gap" between the flash hole on the brass and the bottom of the primer. If the firing pin needs to waste energy moving the primer fully forward before setting off its counter intuitive to what you want. Fully seat and set the hammer accordingly. Also, using the correct firing pin is pretty important. A factory pin that measures .495 will work, or buy an aftermarket pin from somebody like apex or TK.

damn that cylinder looks heavy.

Bless your heart..... If you're still able to set off CCI primers your trigger is not light. Just wait till you get it down to proper weights! Sounds like you'd benefit from a reputable gunsmith to work of your parts. It makes a world of difference.

Uh. Gross. Never.

a rear sight blade is a rear sight blade, no matter the model. Though, now might be a good opportunity to upgrade to something better like a bowen classic arms, or weigand if you are on more of a budget.

Sounds like he bought a gun somebody did the ol' switch-a-roo on.

I use the biggest punch that will fit in the window of the hand where the spring goes to compress it. - Short side in first, long side "up" , short leg of the spring fits in the groove inside the center of the hand - compress the spring with a punch, once its compressed far enough push the hand in ( the hand pins should already be in and semi started during this process , so you can just send it home once compressed enough ) - buy extra, you're going to lose a few here and there. Always good to have spares.

Dont bother with those replacement blades. You cant go wrong with a full replacement assembly. Check out Bowen Classic arms, I think they are the best ones out there. https://parts.bowenclassicarms.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3 As an alternative - LPA also makes replacements.

You can purchase an assortment of shim stock off amazon, or just use an old set of feeler gauges. Cut them to size where needed with a pair of scissors.

If you are truly out of adjustment, you'll need to shim the dot where needed so you can gain the needed space. Get some shim stock thats a few thou thick and go from there.

I picked this one up years ago for removing the extractor rod. Way better than those little nubby ones you need an allen key for. https://gunsmithertools.com/shop/ols/products/xn-visesmith-a-unique-extractor-rod-tool-for-sw-revolvers-uhc74210c

the most insane part about that post is that people are paying $1600 for a stock model 29

Plenty of people do this, successfully.

Eli @ TK CUSTOM Dave Olhasso Mojo Customs Mark @ Pinnacle Revolver Those are some of the main players in the revolver gunsmithing these days.

Here is a quick video of Olhasso going thru some of his Super GP100 mods, including the extended cyl release.

Yup. This. You dont have a problem with it loosening.....until you do. I prefer to take the proper precautions to give myself the best chance of success.

Yes, nearly every screw on a revolver should receive a bit of blue or purple lock tite.

The biggest wear section on my old TRR8s was on the frame firing pin channel. ( where the hammer strikes ), amoung the other normal spots.

Saying it wouldn't work probably isn't the best way to say it. Saying it doesnt really do enough to make a enough of a difference to really matter is probably more appropriate. With the type of powder we typically use there really isnt enough pressures , like in our semi auto open shooter counter parts, to have enough gas to drive it down. I think the most effective type of porting, if any, with revolvers and the common types of powders we use are mid-ports. The powders pressure spike happens about half way down the barrel, so having the ports there make the most sense to be. That being said. I run mid-ports on my open ( minor ) gun and will continue to do so, it helps * a little * , but dont expect a night and day change. My open steel challenge gun I dont run any porting or comps, with my dinky 90 PF ammo it's already very manageable.

I used a TRR8 for many years, for my steel challenge guns. IMO the only reason to go with the scandium frame is to maintain a very light weight for a game like steel challenge, I only ever shot sub minor ( 90 pf ) loads in the TRR8 guns. Moving up to minor, and major loads didnt do me any favors with the light weight frame. ( Yes, you can have the barrel ported, even though its sleeved ) I've since moved on to modified steel frame 627 frames ( Ti cylinders, and a lighter barrel ) I find that it offers a bit more in the longevity of the frames while still being light enough for steel challenge.

The stock firing pin works best in my experience, 7.5 lb DA is what you can expect with a rimfire revolver.

I use the fat man spacers Bob over @ north mountian makes for his rig. They attach to the tec lok belt attachements.