alecmc

Yup. The Bowens are better made, sturdier, and mo' beefy. They can take a knock or three coming out of a port or against a wall, trust me - i've done it. They also offer a cleaner , less distracting , sight picture.

or next time go with the buy once cry once and get this: http://parts.bowenclassicarms.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=43

I'm either or when it comes to using a dremel or chamfer bit, i've got a handful of chamfer bits, but most the time i'll use a couple different dremel bits to take care of the chamfering. Cheaper and just as effective.

really depends . Ti Cylinders or stainless steel cylinders? Ti cylinders eat then up like crazy - I'll try and hog away most the material with a Dremel and then make my finishing passes with the chamfer tool. Stainless? You get a bunch out of them depending on how hard you push them.

Wish I could help, but I do not remember much about the classifier. @2013 was most definitely 6 shot major though. I imagine if this classifier had a reload saved by the 8 shot gun the results would be quite different.

you cut down starline cases from 1.00" to .900 of an inch? Why put in all that work for so little difference ?

TK Moonclips and starline brass in either 38 short colt or 38 long colt. http://www.tkcustom.com

Adjust your sights.

ICORE Would like you to send in your best action shot to photos@icore.org Be sure to include your Name and Location when emailing pictures. Regards, Alec ICORE BOD

I had one walk on me , I intentionally put a slight bend in the pin and re-inserted, hasn't been a problem since.

post a picture of the front sight / muzzle area. some info : https://www.revolversupply.com/blog/replacing-front-sights-on-sw-revolvers-can-i-install-a-new-front-sight/

Yes, you'll stage the trigger - it'll come to a stop, and then when you a ready to actually break the shot you give it that one more extra bit of pull and she fires off. Like I said, i usually dont use this technique , but I might if I have a few very difficult far distance shots. ( very long steel etc ) - but most the time i've fine with my "regular" trigger pulls.

Yes, it's a technique i'll *sometimes* utilize. But most the time, I dont bother. So - You'll want to get your trigger finger deep enough thru the trigger gaurd so that when your trigger finger makes contact with the frame/grip - the the trigger is pretty much full prepped and just a hair more will set off the shot. I usually dont employ this technique because I dont want to be changing my grip / trigger finger for certain shots. Instead I keep one finger placement for every shot with just the front pad of my trigger finger and do smooth straight back trigger pulls. With enough practice you can pretty much tell when the trigger is fully prepped without always doing a "hard stage" Though, other shooters have had great success with always having a deep trigger finger - So try it out and see what works for you. pic 1 ( standard finger technique / front pad only ) pic 2 and 3 - deep trigger finger , bottoms out on frame when the trigger is fully prepped.

I haven't switched, but IIRC stock is a #54 drill bit which measures out to .055" , a bit too undersized for a .0625" (1/16") roll pin. Drill out first for new pin.

Does Phoenix not have any In n' Outs?

I'll be the dummy on this one. What's fire lapping?

Hello! Welcome back to the world of revo! I doubt you are going to find the golden answer here. If they really were all the same splits, with the same sight picture, and same trigger pull ,they would all look like target 4. You're either not squeezing the gun hard enough, jerking the trigger, not letting the sights come to a rest before pulling off the next shot, etc. Only time and lots of practice will tighten those groups up. Best of luck ! -AM

Did they make the boom booms? Yes ? - You good.

Looks buggered. First thing I would do though is replace your yoke screw, and stone off that burr on the end of the crane. The likely scenario is a trip back to smith though, it looks pretty grooved.Smith wont sell you one, so might as well just send it back in - or try and get lucky on the used market.

The outdoor section of the range is pretty big. There might be some smaller speed shoots side by side, but I'd count on alot of walking from pit to pit.

Alot of states, Including mine, Have adopted 10 round mag limits. So, It's put revolver on a much more level playing field as far as reloads during the course of fire go. Obviously this isnt a *good* thing, but an interesting point none the less.

Which area is this? I was the only one at area 3 last year. area 8

via the Membership page on http://icore.org/ICOREMembership.html In big bold letters it says: "To rapidly join or renew by online credit card, request a membership invoice from ICORE's Treasurer." Shortly after you'll get a request to pay via credit card / paypal. If you have the paypal app installed on your phone or an account online you'll immediately get in notice / email to pay directly. Takes no more than 30 seconds or so. Thanks, AM

The only thing that should effect moonclip fit is the groove around the rim of the case where the moonclip fits. What your problem actually sounds like is tight / short chambers in your cylinder that are not allowing the clip to drop in fully. The "ledge" could be a bit short, or the chambers a touch tight. A finish reamer sounds like it's in order.