earthshine402

My CK Arms 2011 feeds short or long 40 ammo just fine. edit: not sure about your ultra short SWC profile. I have loaded 180gr FP from 1.135 out to 1.20

I shot thousands of Ibejiheads (similar) through a stock G35 barrel, no serious issues. I gave it a good scrub every 1k or so.

it is probably much cheaper to just to buy the mags already coated.

My .40 minor load for is 2.6gr Clays behind a 180gr Ibejiheads to 1.138" OAL. It makes about 132 PF in my G35 and 2011 with a KKM barrel. I used a 12 lb recoil spring for this in my G35. 2011 has a 12.5 lb spring.

Pic? you never got around to posting one in that thread.

This. Match up that cut in your bullet nose with the bottom of the feed ramp. If it matches.... I just checked. The gouge is definitely from the feed ramp.I cycled some dummy loads. The top round in the mag is always very far forward upon mag removal. I dont feel any sharp edge on the disco rail. v1911, this is a .40, no spacers. I am going to call my builder next week for a solution, he says there is a solution.

organized by basepad color: rear front Black : .3805 .3845 silver: .382 .384 blue : .384 .389 red : .379 .391 took a pic of the barrel..

its on the fed round, it ejects the same. yesterday, i gingerly ejected and it dribbled out of the gun, it still had the mark.

I've got about 1.5k rounds through my new 2011, and I've noticed every time I "unload, show clear", that round has a gouge in the front of it. I load coated lead bullets - 1.180" truncated cone. When I take the mag out, the top bullet is very far forward. I think as the gun is firing, the top rounds are shifting forward, and when one feeds it is very far forward and may be getting jammed against some part of the feed ramp that it should not be. Anyone have any experience with this? Is it the mags? Gun? I think it is effecting my accuracy, as the groups I shot yesterday were not all that great, and I got better accuracy out of my G35 with similar loads, just a little shorter OAL (1.138"). Does this make sense? Can a big gouge like that lower the accuracy? edit:(accuracy problem could be due to shooter error, getting used to new platform) Is my solution to just load jacketed for now? I'd like to figure this out.

one more thing: pay close attention to OAL's for .40. You might get yourself in dangerous territory loading powder charges meant for long 1.180"+ STI length loads in a factory length 1.130" load..

Chrono is nice to have, and a necessity if you plan on shooting any major matches which require a chrono check. If just shooting locals, you will be fine by going off the load data on here.

I like this one. I have one of these with a Cabella's stamp on the lid, pretty nice. Keeps most of the dust contained.

The trigger components (edit: minus the ejector housing - thanks for the input below guys), are swapable gen3 to gen4. However, There is a different ejector for 9mm vs .40. That being said, guys do run 9mm conversion barrels out of .40 caliber glocks without changing the ejectors. I own a gen 3 34 and 35. The 35 trigger is amazing. Nice and crisp, light. I made it even more amazing when I put in the Vanek super trigger. My 34 is kind of mushy, but smooth, as it is all polished. I think there is a lot of variation from gun to gun, being that they are plastic frames with stamped (i think) metal parts. You could try swapping the trigger bar and connector. At the end of the day, there is much variation in glock triggers, and there is only so much you can do to improve them. When you are running them at full speed in a match, you are probably not going to really tell the difference except maybe on tight long shots which you need to take your time on.

If you want a reliable light trigger pull, go with the lighter striker spring and buy a Jager or Glockworx lightened striker.

I recently picked up a CK Arms limited gun from them, and the stipple job is excellent.

Maybe. Maybe not. I can replicate the same problem by just gripping too hard. Not sure that gripping too hard could cause the muzzle dip. If anything, I would think that gripping very hard would reduce motion in all directions. Are you sure you don't mean the post-ignition push?

Just got the FA in today, ran 2 batches of .45 brass through it. It is quieter than my RCBS and holds more.. Not sure how much quieter a Lyman can be. Got a bunch of brass I want to clean to get ready to get rid of, once I reach the required post count.. Its hard to reach that for a lurker like me. Definitely liking the FA better than the RCBS already though..

ohhhh interesting.. this is the symptom my RCBS one has.. just hums.. Might be a good excuse to go buy an air compressor!

can you post the gun firing at full speed? That is really neat seeing the optic flex during the firing cycle.

My one thought as to how my tumblers died so easily is b/c I keep it in my garage that gets to be below freezing in the winters here in NH. Do you guys think this had anything to do with it?

You should be all set at that shorter OAL with 3.2. I ran that load for a while before changing bullets.

I own both the Jager and Glockworx lightened extended strikers. In my guns, the Jager feels a little more crisp. I use the Jager in my Limited setup G35 with the Vanek super trigger, and I still use the Glockworx in my G34 anyway to ensure primer strike reliability.

Individual dies are available - check the benos store.. good choice on the EGW undersized die.

you can also try out a captured Jager polymer or steel guide rod. These make changing springs easy.

I'm not sure you're going to get much better than this... With my newer mags and a very tight 20 rounds, you can barney mag it at the start for 20+1 and push that mag in there hard until it clicks - the gun will run. You will have to reload with 19 in the mag. Edit: what I would do is lock the slide back, insert a 20 rounder, drop the slide, put that mag I just used, now with 19, on my belt for the first reload, and then cram a full 20 rounder in there..