earthshine402

is everything assembled properly - the spring cups on the striker, and more importantly - the trigger spring - sometimes when you go to put it in the housing, the spring goes off to the side and if you assemble it like that the pull is terrible. Make sure the trigger return spring is straight when re-assembling.

Yea, I realized this in a panic after taking apart the awesome G35, putting it back together, and it feeling like crap. I took it back apart and realized I had not assembled the spring so it was in the bar properly. I am aware of the "S" shape. My G34 just feels drastically different, even with everything assembled properly.

I just picked up a new gen 3 35 the other day, and the trigger felt pretty crisp. I then put all 3 Wolff competition springs in, and not only did it still maintain all functionality, such as properly resetting the trigger all the way, it felt super light and crisp. I put a Jager striker in it also. No parts were even polished. It almost feels as good as a friends Vanek on a G21 I tried. Now, when I compare this to a gen 3 34 I have - this trigger is much different. I have polished all parts. I am unable to use all 3 competition springs in it or the trigger will not reset all the way forward. After the take-up, there is a heavier (but smooth) mush until the break. What is the deal with these drastically different triggers? Is this a known occurrence?

I recently watched a video, maybe by the powerfactor show, about trap shooting. The person said before starting, to focus far away, so that when the clay launches you can easily focus on a closer distance. It had to to with relaxing a muscle. when you are focusing far away, your eye muscle is tense, and changing focus to a closer distance is quicker than changing your focus from near to far. I wonder if this has anything to do with it? I know you are supposed to be watching the sights and not the target, but maybe it could be part of it.

news to me. maybe i got confused because zev's striker is for 9/40. thanks for the info.

I'm pretty sure this is wrong.. I thought that the 9mm and .40 striker are the same part. Edit: I've measured the factory, glockworx, and jager strikers. The aftermarket ones both have extended tips.

cocked an locked means cocked with the safety on.. not sure what you mean here.

Yup - this was exactly it - thanks!

Firefox... Huh.. good tip..I just "saved the file" and opened it with Adobe, and it worked. I also tried viewing the page in Chrome, and it worked... odd... Anyway, thanks. I wonder if the fix is easy..

Has anyone ever run into this issue- when I pull up a classifier, for example : http://www.uspsa.org/classifiers/03-02.pdf the targets don't show up. I just see the X's for the no-shoots, and that's it. Is there some Adobe upgrade that is needed?

GRd?

Thanks.. I was leaning that way also, but was not able to find a definite answer..

If the pistol (G34) makes weight (<= 28 oz), is this guide rod legal? It sticks out further than the factory one when the slide is back.

I used to load Berry's 147 with 3.1 or 3.2 gr Titegroup at 1.135". I now load 147 Zero JHP at 1.105" with 3.1 gr Titegroup - both make about 133 PF out of my G34. DON'T use Clays with 147 gr. All the research I've done on the web points to that being a dangerous combo. I shot a match a few weeks ago where someone had one of those blow the magazine out of his G34, but it could have been due to weak brass. Clays is good for 124 gr bullets.

The big muzzle flip could also have been attributed to shooting factory 115 gr loads - lighter bullet loads require more powder and often have more muzzle flip. I currently prefer 147 gr hand loads at about 132 power factor. I don't think changing your recoil spring is necessary if you will only shoot factory loads.

I just tested out some Missouri 158 gr LRN yesterday. Nice results. I crimped in the grove enough so the rounds would glide into the cylinder without hanging up.

I failed to notice the excellent thread here http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=132306&st=0

I've got a bunch of federal primers and 158 gr LRN from Missouri Bullet Co. I have a bunch of Titegroup that I load for 9mm, and I'm not really planning on using this for .38, too hot. Small jars of 231, wst, wsf (just threw them in a haz mat order to try at some point) The powders I am leaning toward using are Solo 1000 and Clays, each of which I have fresh 8 lb containers of. Anyone have some nice load data for Clays or Solo 1000 with this LRN?

Get a light and shine it down to examine each case to double-check the powder charge before you put the bullet on. I bought a clamp-on LED light from Target that works well with my 650.

I use Titegroup. Others use N320.

Recall that the original poster has a G34, not an M&P... similar, but different!

I know that I can put a lighter recoil spring in and make it work, but I'd like to resolve the current inconsistency I'm observing. It seems like other folks don't need to use 3.6gr to get the stock G34 to run. Furthermore, I want to run the G34 stock for several reasons, so I won't be replacing the recoil spring. I talked to Brian by phone and his feedback was that if the scale calibrates correctly that he feels there is almost no chance that it is not reading accurately. His take was that it is most likely due to variations in the powder from lot to lot. Based on my experience, 3.2 gr of Titegroup will not reliably cycle the gun (G34) with factory springs. I had fits when I tried this combination and shooting from retention at a local IDPA match. Retention is my least favorite thing - I had malfunctions about 75% of the time with this combination - due to a weak grip/ limp-wristing from retention. Also, weak or strong-hand only was not 100% cycling with factory spring. You need to increase the charge if choose to stay with the factory 17lb recoil spring. I initially was also of the same train of thought, but I'm glad I experimented with other spring weights.

I was using Berrys 147gr at 1.135" OAL with 3.2 gr Titegroup, and had a few malfunctions with the factory guide rod assembly. I bought a Jager captured guide rod and tried various spring weights. 13 lb works well with this load. I chrono'd and got a PF of 133, 134, 135 different days with reasonable velocity spreads each time I did it.

I've heard that CCI's are hard. Some other shooters I've talked to like winchester, others with tuned revolvers and 1911's like federals because they are so soft. If you are using the stock striker spring in the glock with the stock striker, the CCI's should be fine. I came across a thread somewhere that mentioned if you use a lightened striker spring, a lightened striker will handle hard primers no problem. I don't know anything about tula or wolf, but for some reason prefer to stay away from those. I recently picked up 20k magtech from a site which no longer carries them, for $20 per thousand. I saw the deal and had to go with it. It was a bit of a risk b/c I had no experience and there is little online about them.

I just put that in my G34. So far, about 500 rounds of CCI with it, no problems. I now have a bunch of magtech primers to use. Previously, I hand-seated about 5k CCI with the factory striker and lightened striker spring. No light strikes. I went with a Dillon 650 (huge improvement), and had 2 CCI light strikes out of about 2k with this setup, but I chalk it up to me not seating the primers fully.