earthshine402

Those of us using a S2, S3, Lim Pro, that put a 1 pc sear in and light hammer spring that are chasing that nice trigger pull have to deal with messing around with extended firing pin blocks and then have to tune it. and some combinations don't even "work" - gen4 Henning pin with extended FPB. I would love to be able to use the gen4 pin for reliable primer ignition - with the Titan hammer also, but it does not engage my extended FPB. I had the ext. FPB with a gen3 Henning, and i was not quite tuned right, so i was getting many light strikes or instances where the pin was getting hung up on the FPB. It is just sort of a pain in the butt to get to the right place..

It would make things so much easier for everyone gaming with these things in production.

Given the fact that my FPs and JHPs at 1.110 don't actually feed smoothly, I'm probably not going to bother.. gonna get some round nose of some 124-147 variety.. a friend may have some 128 Ibejihead RNs for trade.

LOL.. i initially had them at 1.135, and squished them down to 1.110 after i realized that the bullets were contacting the rifling when doing the plink test.. maybe ill try squishing a few and see if they feed..

I just "slow fed" some round nose snap caps in all 7 of my mags, 2 rounds in each.. they all fed perfectly.. so looks like i have some 147gr FP to dump... movin' on to round nose! edit: and movin' back to the 7 lb recoil spring!

in my stock 3 and probably others, the gen4 FP is not blocked by even the extended FPB.. my guess is the extended FPB needs to be MOAR EXTENDED.

Based on my test and match, it happened when i started a stage by shooting 10 rounds and dropping the empty mag with that last round jam fed

I have just over 1k on the gun, i might try a new hammer spring. What is the 45 bump insert? Where you slow feed it and smack the back of the slide to push it in battery? What i have done so far was slow feed mags- it works until the last round in the mag and then it hangs and the bump wont even help, i have to extract the round. I have been running 9lb spring for most of it. Tried a 7 at first snd it was clear i needed a heavier one.

T3 disco alsoEG extreme light hammer spring My bullets were bayou 147 at 1.110, then i ditched those after a few terrible stages for 147gr zero jhps at 1.110, which were very tried and true in my g34, and case gage much better than my bayou load.

I had all sorts of probs last weekend, first match with my stock 3. Henning gen 3 pin, 1 pc sear, ext FPB, titan hammer. Lots of what seemed to be light strikes but some had no indent on primer, indicating hang up. The damn thing was having feeding problems as well..

not to be a jerk, but how bout that "bad non scientific advice"

Ahh the Tripp Corey mags.. Well.. Best of luck, let us know how that goes.

how many rounds in those mags and does it fit the box?

Please don't give bad, non scientific advice here Your spring weight is going to dictate the rate at which the recoil energy of the slide gets transferred to the frame, as well as how far the slide travels. The gun will still cycle even if the slide barely goes past the base of the next round or bottoms out on the frame. Tuning this is how you can achieve a flatter shooting gun. Sorry, i have to disagree with you on achieving a flatter shooting gun. If you use a spring so heavy that it does not allow the slide to travel fully back, the muzzle dip would be huge, you should watch the youtube vid and see the dip with heavier springs.I prefer the light recoil spring with a hard grip for flat shooting.

Just caught up on many months of this thread... For the life of me I cannot understand the hype of these.. I think you would be much better off getting a CK Arms blaster, many of which are stocked at Shooter's Connection and Speed Shooter's International. For just a little more money, it is a completely gunsmith fit "pre-canned" custom quality build. I picked up a CK Thunder series limited in .40 directly from CK in 2014, and it is a really nice pistol with a 2 lb trigger.

question about the no gap magwell and Tripp mags: was it easy to trim the basepads and is there much of the basepad that sticks out once seated- is there enough leverage to ensure positive seating?

Does anyone have any experience using Dawson base pads on these Tripp 10mm mags - I am interested in using the Dawson no gap magwell, and realize it requires special base pads. Wondering if these pads still work on these specific mags and if they fit the USPSA box, or if there are any issues... Does using an EGW higher mag catch matter at all? (how much room is there with this?)

I use the EGW U die for .40 and the regular Lee sizing die for 9 and have no issues.

have you closely examined the internal parts? They are crappy stamped or molded metal with seams, creases, and machining marks.

I think Matt meant to say stock FPB, not "sear"

I don't think that the Gen 3 Henning pin is all that bad of a thing to be "stuck" with if you have the Titan Hammer. Initially, these aftermarket firing pins were extended/ lightened to improve reliability... and same thing goes for the Titan Hammer, right? I would think that we'll be alright with the TItan hammer and the Gen 3 firing pin, but time will tell..

lucky then.. i can't even use the gen4 pin in my S3.. even with the extended FPB.. I think I got 1-2 spare gen3 if wanna trade? Haven't had an issue with any of gen4's in any of mine I'll let you know..

lucky then.. i can't even use the gen4 pin in my S3.. even with the extended FPB..

Checking the functionality of the FPB while the slide is back is meaningless for a Tanfo. If you have: the 1 pc sear, the titan hammer, and the stock FPB, does this combination successfully block the firing pin from moving forward with the slide forward, hammer back, not pulling the trigger? Does the firing pin move freely when you hold on the trigger, and does it pass the "pencil test", no light strikes at all?

So you're saying you got the titan hammer put it in your S3 that had already been switched over from 2 to 1 piece sear, and left the original FPB in and when you cock the hammer and push the FP with a pen or something the FPB catches it and keeps it from depressing? What FP are you using again? Yes. I installed it along with one piece sear at same time (whole trigger job done at once thing) and all I did was polish the bottom/top of FPB (whatever end sear touches) and no issues. Running a Gen4 Henning pin now but had a Gen3 in it for couple times cuz gen4 hadn't made to me yet and no issues. I can push the firing pin and won't go forward unless I press the FPB (such as if I have slide locked all the way back) and then will move forward but functions fine. I had ordered some extended FPBs while back just cuz I'm a spare parts junkie but never have had to install one. Both my III's and II's are stock FPBs if the slide is forward and the hammer is back, can you push your firing pin forward with a punch? I'm doubtful on this one, particularly with the gen4 firing pin.