usmc0326

Hey alaska, part of people using the 155 grain in palma is because they have to because that's the max bullet weight IIRC. They also send them down range with silly long barrels. In my 20 inch I am rocking 175 and heavier bullets because of the extra weight I can get better powder burn in the shortie. Naturally my twist is 10:1 in my 20 inch barrel 308 so I can rock the heavy bullets. I don't bother putting anything other than 20 moa rails on my precision rifles because I fully intend on pushing the limits of whatever platform I am shooting. I don't remember what the LTR barrel twist is, but long range we typically don't bother with anything under 175. Strangely in the 308's I have had there is a huge difference past 600 with 168 and 175. Not much weight difference but whatever they did it is a big change. A Max 178's are nice too, good me plat uniformity from round to round. and 16.25 moa is about what it takes to get a 2600 fps smk to 600. at 2650 that's about 700. 4.7 mils is ~16.25moa

Dude, you should just remember my name for rifle questions lol. Get yourself some kiwi clear/neutral shoe polish. Clean the receiver and the rail with solvent(your choice, acetone, brake clean whatever). Take some playdough or similar clay type product and put it in the receiver screw holes. Use JB weld, devcon, marine tex etc for the bedding material. Apply the shoe polish to the receiver to act as a release agent. Then mix your bedding compound and apply. I think one of the guys from 8541 made a video of this on youtube. Use wd 40 on q tip to clean excess.

Ok, I would say that triggers are one of the key interfaces with the weapon and are very important. However, my shooting with a glock stock box trigger doesn't get any better when I shoot at slow fire speeds with a modified trigger. However, when I am trying to do hammered pairs on targets with a time crunch that is when it will show up. That extra time to prep the trigger, the overtravel and pretravel all take time to overcome. Right? So in a game where it's your score divided by the time (iirc) that half tenth adds up between shots over an entire match. And it's nice to not have a trigger that feels like your rubbing the sear on gravel. The more confidence you have in your weapon the better you will perform (positive mental attitude.)

The first consideration I would have is budget. Second is your skill. If you can't shoot / are new to rifle shooting I would say the barrel matters less. Personally I have a 16 inch noveske recon barrel for my three gun rifle. But in my area the distance targets aren't 400 yards away like some of the east coast matches. A white oak, Noveske, pac nor, krieger (not that you really have to have a kreiger for three gun but they are usually my go to barrels) or similar stainless steel barrel will be fine. I can't say I would buy a rack barrel from midway. 1:7 is the twist I would start with. It gives you the most flexibility of the bullets you can use (at that weight you can use any bullet that I know of ie 77 grain bullets for the long stages). Mid length gas seems to be the way to go at 16 -18 inch. But everyone will have their opinion on that. Whatever you get, make sure if you have an M4 feed ramp upper receiver you have a M4 feed ramp barrel. Overall white oak makes good sticks for the bucks, unless you want to step up to a Noveske, but at almost 2x the price it is probably not worth it in the end. The biggest thing I like about the noveske is the pinned gas block It won't come off till I want it to lol.

Go with the MFG's that actually have support for them. Benelli is spendy but they have a lot of support for them. I run a 16 ar for three gun. On my side of the divide there aren't alot of super long range courses so dropping 40 fps won't break you.

Start with the baseline flare. Run the ram on the 650 all the way up. Tighten the crimp die down till it touches a sized case, add 1/2 turn and that should remove the bell you previously put in it at the powder die station. The idea of the crimp in pistol bullets is just to remove the bell, in canallured bullets your trying to crimp it into the void. This is usually the exception rather than the rule for our application. Cheers

The offhand and Ransom Rest testing I have done with OAL in my glock 17, 34's have shown that shorter oal are more accurate with the same powder charges... I started at max oal, with the same powder charge and only varied the oal and the groups tightened. Starting at ~1.165 (if I recall correctly) and went down to 1.130. Groups started at about 5 inches and went down to 2.75 at the shorter oal at 25 yards. Also I found that best accuracy was either above or below the trans/ supersonic transition. Naturally every weapon is a bit different but overall with the stock barrel I was able to get groups as small as ~1.25 with 10 rounds at 25 yards, the best repeatable was ~1.50. My uspsa production loads (shoots clean, low recoil, accurate, and cycles quickly) are with variants of 124gr, 147gr and N320/ power pistol. Generally I am satisfied with 2 inches or less at 25 with my stock barreled Glock race pistols. My favorite carry round also shoots under 2 inches. These are all shot with stock top ends (barrel, slide/ frame fit is unchanged from factory) and federal (FC headstamp) range brass cleaned with stainless media, winchesterSP primers (cheap and decent es/sd for when I can't get federal SP). So I am a bit skeptical of having to pay someone a bunch of money to get 2 inch groups out of my glocks when some time and attention to detail Sidebar- if anyone wants me to test their bullets or components feel free to send them to me

I forget the company but you can get various weights of striker springs. The light strike magnet is the 4.0 lb spring, do not use with winchester small pistol primers or harder (wolf etc). About 1:100-200 are light strikes. Try a 4.5 or 5.0, iirc 6.0 is the stock version. The lighter recoil springs are fine with most ammo. If your going to run factory ammo like winchester white box check out a 15 lb spring, with minor loads I run a 13 lb spring in my 34.

Reloads are fine if done properly. Don't tell glock that you have a problem and you used non factory ammo lol. Voids the warranty or whatever the deal is.

wow, Well my first question would be if you were still using tite group. I use tite group, power pistol N320 and they all meter VERY well through my 650. My best guess if your getting that sort of spread there is an issue with the powder bar or linkage. Maybe static, but that would have to be an ass load of static. My powder measure prep is tearing it down. Cleaning all the parts with electric parts cleaner (milder break cleaner, so don't clean the plastic cylinder with it only the cast metal parts). Then reassemble. without the powder bar linkage connected to the base. Move the powder bar full stroke manually to check to see if the problem lies in the powder measure or in the linkage setup. I would shoot a quick video so maybe someone that has had a 650 longer might see something you may be over looking... The powder measure die height was the hardest part of the setup for me. Cheers

I did other, Which was purchasing one of the cnc laser cut grip tape kits for less than 20 bucks. Allowed me to get a positive grip on the weapon and still have the ability to peal it off if USPSA makes a rule change. (I shoot in both production and limited so it makes it nice to be able to revert back to stock if I choose. It's not the best route, but for the price I would say the retention with sweaty hands likely can't be beat.

4.5 grains of Titegroup behind 115gr Montana Gold CMJ. Check my load against the loading data before you load. I would take a look at your overall length. I did some testing with OAL from max to about 20 and the shorter rounds were more accurate in my glocks. I was getting 5 inch groups with winchester white box. 124 grain mg, 5.5 grains of power pistol at 1.120(iirc) and we are under 2 inches. Even winchester white box bullets 115gr, 4.0-4.5 tg, and 1.135 oal I was in the 2.75 inch group range. My top end is stock, the only change I made to the upper is the recoil spring and guide rod. If you take some time and dial in the load with testing glocks are surprisingly accurate out of the box.

For shits and grins give us some measurements of the ejector position and a video impression of how tight the extractor is. If the extractor is under sprung it can cause ejection issues. The original photo looks pretty nasty with carbon build up, I would suggest tearing it apart if you know what your doing and physically checking each component for hangups. If the plunger channel for the extractor has a shit load of carbon buildup that will hamper ejection in glocks also. Couldn't see much from the video. What area are you in? Maybe we could meet up and I could help you out. Even high speed analysis of the issue if your available. On a side note, I have yet to have a glock with a solid/ predictable ejection pattern like my 1911's. Brass goes 1 O'Clock to 5 O Clock. Where most of my weapons (ar, bolt rifles etc all go in a 5 gal bucket) Cheers, Patrick

Modified function check for a glock should be as follows. (naturally with weapon clear, no magazine inserted, no ammo in the room etc) Starting with the striker in the non cocked position. Charge the pistol( aka rack the slide), with trigger finger applying pressure to the rear. With the slide back in battery, release the trigger pressure, trigger should reset to the forward position (and click). Press the trigger to the rear and the striker should fall. Charge the pistol (aka rack the slide) without depressing the trigger safety in the center of the trigger, attempt to press the trigger to the rear. The striker should not fall. Sounds like you have to much over travel limiting. To start with dial out some pretravel and some overtravel and start again. Worst case shoot a quickie video and post. Easier to diagnose when I see it. lol.

Short stroking is common with the glocks with minor pf ammo (using stock recoil spring). They are sprung from the factory for what my best guess would be is +p defense ammo. I had the same problem with my glocks in "race". I swapped out the recoil spring with an ismi 13 lb spring and all of my pistols run after that. So if your running 130 PF ammo you need a lighter recoil spring for sure, or it will short stroke all day long.

I have had both G4/G3. I am a right hand shooter, I like the grip texture of the gen 4, and the grip shape of the gen 3 (My gen 3 has grip tape to compensate for the difference in texture). The Gen4 would probably be better for your bro however since the mag release is easily swapped. The recoil spring assy is more difficult to swap out, but it can be done. I didn't like the lockup of the 13 lb ismi spring / adapter assembly in the gen 4. But given that is a lesser evil than wrong side mag release I would green light the gen 4 for him.

I have a couple tricks lol.

BSI Scene safe? lol

below the stock adjustable range of 3-4 lbs, think india stone, drilling rivets etc.

Depending on which model you have, X Mark Pro you can usually dial down to about 3 -4 lbs without breaking it down. The older triggers are more adjustable. But I highly recommend not going below 3 without a trigger pull gauge to verify what your final settings are. Cold fingers on a 1.5 lb trigger makes for negligent discharges when not extremely careful. My personal preferences for triggers are Geissele triggers in Ar based rifles and stock or jewel triggers in bolt rifles. The first Remington trigger I had tuned by GA Precision reminded me that the stock trigger can be excellent with a little massage. 2.5 on rifles, 3.0 on pistols are both plenty light except for benchrest, But I don't play in that water. The recoil lug of the scope gives the rail something to aid in keeping the rail stationary and hardware tight while the rifle recoils. Check out the M40 A5 for an extreme example (the scope rail is installed into a machined notch in the receiver)

I would suggest the night force 20 moa rail. From the looks of the larue, it doesn't have the recoil lug. TSR rings work fine and are about 75 bucks. Trigicon does a good job with their glass. But you may want to look at other options like leupold ffp/ nightforce F1 if you ever plan on doing unknown distance shooting (without range finder). Features like zero stop are nice to. I would say the ideal is the F1 if you can swing the cash for it. (I typically spend about the same amount of money or more on glass for a rifle than I spend on the rifle itself). My muzzle break of choice is the surefire, it's also going to be nice in about 2 months when my Form 4 can comes in. 308 is a joy to shoot without the report. I would suggest not going below 2.0 on the bolt rifle before you get some time on it. (a friend of a friend adjusted his trigger to below 2 lbs and I ended up having to rework it because closing the bolt would sometimes drop the firing pin) All of my x mark triggers are tuned to 2.5 lbs and they don't break quite like glass and there is a slight amount of creep. But 98% of shooters would swear my triggers are jewel. However if you want to spend the 200 bucks, go with jewel. In precision rifle there is no equal. Breaks like glass, no creep, and just a joy to shoot. If your running a muzzle break there is no need to change the recoil pad. Most people end up changing stocks first, Stock fit (length of pull and comb height) are made for some mythical person, I have yet to find someone that actually fits a factory non adjustable stock. Check out mcmillan, manners or similar stocks. The most common mistakes I have seen which damage barrels is improper cleaning methods and damaging the crown of the barrel. Get a PROPER bore guide (min of sinclair bore guide with chamber oring to prevent solvents from getting into the stock and action/trigger). 308 rifle barrels last a LONG TIME. I have yet to see someone shoot one out in less than 5000 rounds. So make sure you read up on it. Reloading also makes shooting precision rifle more bearable. ] Hope this helps.

I believe 26 + 2 = 28 where is the like button?

I have about 2500 Montana gold bullets sitting on my work table at the moment and I can't complain about them. When properly loaded all provide less than 2.5 inch groups at 25 yards with box stock g34. The other go to bullet I have found is buyou bullets, great overall value. The down side is the taper crimp has to be more exacting and not over crimped on lead bullets. They are hard to beat at the price point, just buy alot to justify the 14 bucks or so in shipping. I buy montana gold by the thousand with free shipping from one of the vendors, forget which but it's something to factor in. Home defense use, I have a couple boxes of Speer gold dot 124 gr jhp with boxes and lot numbers. Cor Bon is also exceptionally accurate and performs well in a factory glock. Lawyers these days can and will do amazing things for the bad guys (the book how to own a gun in california opened my eyes a bit to this concept). Hand loads can be called into question and they have been used to make the person that used them look like they are out for a fight and got people in trouble, same with the punisher inscriptions and similar customizations. I have carry ammo which I can tell you the lot number of each magazine, and then there is competition ammo / zombie ammo which doesn't need to be accounted for.

If your going to do a barrel swap, Throw in a Bar Sto. No sense in going half way. Bar Sto accuracy and quality are hard to touch. They are certainly better than Wolf or KKM. Why do you say this? I'm considering putting an aftermarket barrel in my Glock 34 right now. I have used Bar Sto and Kart for 1911's; got better results from Kart. Don't really want to do discovery learning with the glock. Every really accurate pistol I have had/ shot all had Bar-Sto barrels in them. But, I guess the big thing is how good of a shot are you. The BarSto barrels are used in all the one off pistols for the USMC for the MEU(SOC) and shooting team pistols and they are hard to beat for accuracy. If there is any fitting needed that can be done by a good machinist or BarSto. Granted if you have a decent glock barrel you can get sub 2 inch groups out of a stock glock with the right ammo. I am averaging abour 2.5 with random combinations on my stock barrel. Best is about 1.75 (one was 1.51 but wasn't repeatable). There isn't really discovery learning, the barrel twist is slower, so if your shooting 160 grains now it might make a difference. But I shoot 147s and 125's and they both are money, I can take random jacketed bullets and most powders and still come up with 2.75 or less with some powder charge and bullet testing. When the rain lets up I am doing more lead 147 grain accuracy testing/ stock barrel. But if your going to buy a barrel, jump in and get the best.

I have a couple miles on my bod. I recently gave in to the idea of pain management, before it was the typical "Pain is weakness leaving the body" mindset, but I found I discovered more weakness leaving than usual after I hit 28 lol. While I got this information from my physician I would suggest asking for your own personal doctors input. The idea is that you can take anti inflammatory medicines prior to the pain to prolong the activity and reduce discomfort. Assuming you have a healthy liver and your internal chemistry is within spec you can take 800 mg of ibuprofen 3 times per day not to exceed 2400mg/ 24 hour period. My initial reaction was holy shit that's alot, but my doc said it's fine to take. I would suggest trying closer to 400 to start and seeing where that gets you.