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usmc0326

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About usmc0326

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    Looks for Target
  • Birthday June 6

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    Portland, Or

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  1. All of my TTI base pads are on gen 3 mags. I can try to swap them later today and see if they work.
  2. I had a similar problem, the front strap of the trigger bow was concave, it should be somewhat convex otherwise the trigger hits the mag body.
  3. On my latest batch of STI 140mm mags the slot for the mag release is JUST larger than the mag release button. Vs the older 126 mag that never binds (dont have to rip it, always falls free). the slot for the mag release is larger in height. I took some measurements and mad a go/ no go gauge based on the 126 mag. The 140 mags now fall free 100% of the time. First check tomake sure the body itself isn't oversized. Out of the box they need some massaging to get down below 1.365 front to back measurement to drop free. If you need more info PM me.
  4. the TTI followers from the factory i am pretty sure are for lock back. Which is why they lock back, with a round still in the mag. The 126 that is almost stock does have a TTI 4g2 on it. I guess I will try that mag with the stock base pad. I have a feeling it will lock back correctly after that. Not sure what needs to be done to the 140mm mags for lock back. Going to call TTI tomorrow and find out more if I have time.
  5. That would be the correct answer, screwed around with a caliper to replicate the position and realized that the round was getting stuck under the bump on the mag body, Used a harbor freight sanding tool to make that more of a ramp and mags fit 23 and bench feed all 23 rounds without binding. http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/sanders/38-in-belt-air-sander-60627.htmlWas perfect for this job! Were you the gentleman who called us earlier yesterday? No sir. It's all sorted now. Just need to figure out how to get the mags to slide lock, on the LAST round, not second to last.
  6. That would be the correct answer, screwed around with a caliper to replicate the position and realized that the round was getting stuck under the bump on the mag body, Used a harbor freight sanding tool to make that more of a ramp and mags fit 23 and bench feed all 23 rounds without binding. http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/sanders/38-in-belt-air-sander-60627.htmlWas perfect for this job!
  7. I also tuned my mags with the dawson kit. The dawson vid actually falls short a bit, the new 2011 sti mags need to have more work done to them to even function. The "bump" that makes the 23rd round in 9mm stick, after the first shot the 23rd round sticks on that bump. I have TTI mag followers, springs, base plates etc.
  8. I have some STI mags that either slide lock and leave 1 round in the mag or don't lock the slide back. I was wondering if there was a reasonable method I could do in the mill or similar to get the followers / slide lock to work consistently for IDPA in my marauder.
  9. I have 2 pretty new "tuned" STi 140mm mag bodies, TTI Followers, TTI springs, TTI spacer, TTI Base pad. When I put 23 rounds in them they feed the first round, but the mag follower sticks. There is 0 spring pressure after that and I can turn the mag upside down and rattle the rest of the rounds out, save 1. The follower is pushed to the side and the last round is wedged between the mag body and the follower... anyone have a fix for this? Not thrilled that my $2400 dollar gun with 500 dollars or so in mags doesn't run lol. How do we get 4 digit prices on guns that don't work lol? If your answer is anything along the lines of buy an MBX mag, please don't bother replying.
  10. Sarge- To be clear it was a gun built by Matt at Predator Tactical. The whole gun was a pile of shit. I sold it for way less than I had into it. Bought a Stock STI Marauder and have been shooting the piss out of it. The factory STI was tighter in slide to fit, barrel lockup and the fit and finish was WORLDS Apart. The PT gun was delivered to me full of blast media, which had been shot in the gun. The slide to frame fit lateral measurement was 0.0063 inch clearance... There was a laundry list of issues starting with the barrel fit being looser than my factory glock 17 barrel. Dude is under investigation by the ATF/ FBI. I hope he goes down... I told him I wanted a new gun, he vanished from the face of the planet. I have pics and dialog if anyone needs that so I don't get slammed for slander or some hippie nonsense. But it was funny, the same things he said in his shooting skills video featuring don beiski (sp?) about gunsmiths, is everything he became. New STI Marauder with a transplant DVC grip, Dawson 2011 mag release and gunsmith trigger are awesome. Not talking 50 yard bullseye gun, but excellent for three gun and has made me up my game shooting limited minor.
  11. Disco fixed, still f*#ked up. Swapped out sear spring from my kimber just for fun. Passes function test. Thanks for the help guys. I may be good with making things. But I am still not a 2011 gunsmith lol.
  12. They might not cold. So I found the blueprints for the 1911, the disconnector hole call out is 0.164 -0.000/ +0.003. So it's within the range it should be. However the bore is irregular. a 0.165 gauge pin fits and is loose (hole larger than 0.165), 0.166 minus gauge pin slides in 0.062 ish and stops. Will order a 0.1665 reamer (since a chucked reamer will only cut to about 0.1667... still within our tolerances. Interestingly I borrowed a friends kimber 1911 and his hole gagues out at about 0.1705.
  13. Usually the middle of the second leaf is furthest forward. Where do you think the pressure comes from to reset the trigger? Bending it back further than the leaf that rests on the sear is a pretty good way to fail a function check, but... OK... Clearly you don't need my help here...I'd be interested to see what CK have to say about the odds of a spring looking like that leaving their shop. Looks like something that was fixed until it stopped working. Bobby and I had a lengthy discussion about the geometric and machining issues with this frame. I said usually when I buy blem frames and such I can't find what the blems are. This one there were a bunch of issues that I found, he said he was fine with selling them as first line product... He said return it and he would refund, however the shop I was speaking to about the build said that they had all the tricks for making frames work right. So I trusted that pledge. Didn't help that I waited 6 months for it on a 2 month promise. I looked around and it would have been another 4 months or more to get a Pheonix trinity or similar short/ tactical dust conver gun and STI wasn't selling them in frame/ grip sets. I updated the comment above with an example of how the spring was bent when I pulled it out of the gun ( not like it's going to go back in the gun anyhow lol). The story line to me says they bent it that way in an attempt to preload the disconnector trying to get it to reset. and all the hammering and nonsense was an attempt to get the gun to work right without actually diging into each part. Hope this provides a more clear picture. It's a new (2014?) factory sti grip with the bevel on the left to accominate the narrower sear springs.
  14. Usually the middle of the second leaf is furthest forward. Where do you think the pressure comes from to reset the trigger? Bending it back further than the leaf that rests on the sear is a pretty good way to fail a function check, but... OK... Clearly you don't need my help here...I'd be interested to see what CK have to say about the odds of a spring looking like that leaving their shop. Looks like something that was fixed until it stopped working. Your clearly not getting it, The ENTIRE second leaf was bent THE OPPOSITE WAY as it comes... The grip/ frame etc were all 2013/2014/2015 parts.
  15. Yes, this was a new build. The spring was photographed as an example of how not thrilled I am with the build... I didn't take a picture before I bent it back. (pictures were after thought since camera wasn't in my office) Usually the second leaf is somewhere between the first and third leaf. The second leaf was bent toward the trigger bow (presumably to add pressure to the disconnector/ trigger bow to reset the disconnector). When I get some time I will massage the disconnector and see if that fixest things. In the mean time I need to check with our local gunsmith to see if he stocks these parts.
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