usmc0326

I got a case of them to start and I haven't had to look anywhere else for shells. I run 7 1/2 and choke for the longest distance piece of steel. Easily 400 shells with 0 issues.

I got mine new for 1040 stock with 0 rounds.

Monthly. Get out and shoot wanker...

not only can you buy 6.5 creedmoor loads, they give you the recipe on the box from hornady. That way if you decide to reload you can have the exact load from the start.

Gotcha, I had read that somewhere but I didn't remember. I was half paying attention at the time lol.

Why is that? I use 3.2 universal clays /147gr lead and recoil in my glock 34 is like a duck fart.

Yeah, unless you can remove the button from your decapping die. With 223 I choose to do everything in separate steps due to having to deal with the crimp on the primer pockets. I guess if you were to decap in one station and size in another you could do something like decap in station one, charge in station 2, size in station 3, powder check station 4, and seat station 5? That is if you really had a hankering for doing it in one step. I personally decap with a lee decapping die (10 bucks) and the rest of the quick change plate is empty. Then if it's a new to me lot of lake city brass I use the dillon swaging tool and remove the military crimp. Into the stainless media tumbler. Dry, then put them in a cookie sheet, spray with dillon spray sizing lube, run them through the 650 with a bushing sizing die(full length sized) (I need to size the necks before I can trim with my case trimmer), Then they get trimmed in my giurad tool company case trimmer, and then standard media tumbled for 30 min to get sizing lube off. Loaded into 650 hopper one last time and size station1 (doesn't really do anything), charged station2, station 3 is powder check, station 4 is soon going to be bullet feed from hornady, and station 5 will be seating. (same process has been used for exceptionally concentric ammo, but I currently don't have a bullet feeder but that won't change concentrically.) For consistent OAL, make sure you get a thrust bearing kit for the shell plate. If you don't have one pm me and I will get you part numbers for the 6 dollar fix in parts from McMaster tool company. The key to good ammo is right powder charge (easy with the dillon as long as you use ball powder), the bearing kit, and the right sizing die without the little neck sizing ball. Those are evil. You might notice when you use the regular way that when you pull the handle down it goes up easy, but when you push it back up there is a hard spot. That hard spot is what is tweaking your brass and making it have crazy runout. Good luck, email/ message me with any questions.

After I posted this I talked to a couple other people that shoot more than I do and some had already figured this out. I also talked to Doug of gairud and he said they do offer this but most people want cheaper, not more stuff. This along with a cutting head for each case mouth diameter makes changing quick and simple.

If your one of the lucky people that own a Giraud case trimmer and you reload multiple calibers then you might want to check this out. It's really simple. I was trying to figure out how to make the case trimmer "chamber" into a double jam nut deal so I could change calibers without changing the settings and measuring 4 times. I was about to make a new die body when I measured the thread pitch and diameter. Wowzas it's the same as the reloading dies. I took a spare hornady lock ring and threw it on. Now I don't mind switching between 223, 6.0, 6.5 and 30cal cutting tools! (5.56x45, 6.0mmx47, 243 win, 6.5x47, 7.62x35, 7.62x51, 300 win mag and 338 win mag). Before it was annoying enough for small runs to where I would just use my manual trimmer instead. No more...

So it sounds like your brass sizing operation is making non concentric brass. I have a smaller amount of your problem with my trimmer, but I haven't exhausted all the possibilities yet. Any degree of cant in the build of the machine would be removed by turning the brass in your fingers and you would have a uniform cut. I have found that if your resizing brass with the decapping / neck sizing button that I get a LOT of runout in my brass. If you use a honed neck area full length sizing die you should get 0.000-0.001 runout in each piece of brass. I have found up to 0.004 runout with several different sizing dies as delivered from the factory (hornady, dillon, rcbs). If you go on accurate shooter.com a lot of the guys don't use the decapping rod/ button because it tweaks the brass. I am actually sending in one of my hornady sizing dies tomorrow to get custom sized if they still do the service. OOPS, reply to kinda old thread.

I am looking for the same information (bump)

Depends on what you were trying to use this for. Home defense or race gun? I have a super light weight 14.5 barrel, but if you send to many rounds down range the POI shifts from cold bore to 40-60 rounds. Vs Medium-recce profiles don't shift hardly at all. Also for a non race gun I would use a Young MFG lightened bolt carrier with the forward assist.

dawson rear, match with 285 front sight for a 34 http://www.dawsonprecision.com/ProductDetail.jsp?LISTID=2160000-1094593467

I am pretty sure that what happens with a low charge weight is one of three things: 1 the primer ignites the powder charge and the bullet leaves the muzzle but at a lower than optimal velocity. 2, the primer ignites and the powder charge isn't reliably ignited and you have a partial ignition situation, bullet may or may not leave the barrel. or 3, what is called a squib load which leads to KBoom. With the squib load or low pressure charges the bullet leaves the case mouth and lodges somewhere in the barrel. The following round if ignited properly hits the round stuck in the barrel and causes the kaboom. (the third is most common with loads with just primers and the loader forgot the powder charge. Generally to avoid this just make sure your observant while doing load development or if your pistol feels like it recoiled softer than usual or the bang was abnormally quiet. The key part is staying with the load books min/ max. Be sure that you also observe the OAL length suggestions. Loading to long and the bullet is touching or jammed into the rifling can cause excessive pressure, along with loading to short can cause excessive pressure due to the reduced case volume. Testing ammo with a chronograph will also tell you if your in the right range.

There are a couple choices. I use some off the shelf Surefire EP5 (whatever their highest rated plugs are), and Howard Leight ear muffs (they have adjustable noise canceling and amplification). You can also run some custom molded ear plugs which are sick. I lost the last pair I had but they are super comfortable and iirc they were about 70 bucks and there were no ear plugs that reduced noise more. But if you shoot alot like most of us do. I highly suggest using double ear protection. The first 5 years in the corps I used single and my hearing tests actually show huge decrease in hearing because of that.

Damn, I guess you like solid hits on all steel? I don't remember ever even using anything tighter than a Mod. Semper Fi

I think I remember talking to the Trijicon people about that back in 2003, I think it had to do with the design of the acog Reticle vs the etched reticles or something. Thanks for the throw lever assist, that was one of the things I needed to find since the normal vendor I use didn't have one for the Meopta.

I have used many of the trijicon optics in the ACOG and RMR etc, my main reason for asking was I haven't personally looked through a ZD, I have seen and used other competitive optics but I am wary of buying an optic sight un seen. I was hyped up about the Leupold three gun optic till I got a look through them and noticed the optical barreling. Looks like the ZD wins. I was leaning that way anyhow but wanted feedback from the community before pressing the trigger on the order. My local matches are fairly short range. Winter we have been shooting in the bays out to 50, summer we will get out to 3-400 and I plan on doing some of the three gun nation matches in 2013 if my schedule allows. Which means I need to be able to engage any target on the pro series and have an optic that is durable enough.

So I am at the point where I am about to order an optic specifically for three gun. I have about a grand to play with. I would love to get a swart or sb but I just can't do that yet. I have come to the point where I am torn between the trijicon and the Meopta. The trijicon would be a slam dunk if it had some sort of vertical scaling / bdc. I want true 1:1 because i have been shooting so long with aimpoint/ eotech it was strange when I tried a 1.25 low power optic. Looking to get feedback for each optic. Thanks!

I guess it depends on which rounds you use. IIRC Montana gold 147 tmj, 124 JHP and a couple others showed a single mark loading 1.170.

Keep in mind there may be a couple OAL combinations that get excellent accuracy. There seem to be OAL / velocity nodes for accuracy. Sometimes loading long, sometimes loading short can also get excellent results. Example I found that I get more consistent groups with fewer fliers with MG at shorter OAL's. Try chambering a few long loaded rounds, note how they can mar the bullet with the rifling. My production load used to be 1.170, I have since backed it down to 1.135 and seem to get more consistency with few fliers. I also load with the 650. For minimal OAL variation make sure your using a thrust bearing on the shell plate. You have to bend the ejection bar that dumps the rounds into the bin on station 5 iirc, but it really helps along with cutting 1 coil of the shell plate detint spring. At this point unless you find something in stock order a Barsto gunsmith fit barrel. There isn't anything more accurate that I have found. The Marine Corps MEU(SOC) pistols have barsto barrels and shoot raged holes at 25 yards, so far I have yet to find a pistol I liked more with the exception of a couple 2011 limited guns. Tests didn't happen today due to the ridiculous amounts of fog we had this am when I had time to go to the range. Hopefully I will get out tomorrow. Hmmm that is odd. I've found fast powder and heavy bullets offers the softest shooing loads... It's slow powder that is snappy. lug nut- Assuming your using the same bullet and switching powders I have found that to be the case. Like titegroup is in the top 15 for powder burn speed and some of the snappiest loads I have made were 115gr with titegroup. And the softest are N320 with 147's and power pistol.(slower burning powders with heavier bullets ). I guess it's hard to quantify recoil impulse "Feel" because it's based on your perception of the shot.

At my local range there is a steel plate at 200 yards on the main range. I usually run the plate rack to practice. My buddy was stoked he was hitting the plates at 200 with his 308 savage, I upped the anty with shooting the same plate with my glock 34 with 135 pf ammo. Took a couple shots and adjustments, but previously the max I had tried a pistol shot was 100 yards. We will try 300/ 400 the next time I am at my alternate range.

It really depends race or carry. My race glocks are gen 3, carry glock is gen 4. The guide rod situation on the gen 3 means you can drop in ismi 13 lb spring and rock it in production. The gen 4 revised recoil spring assy works 100% with my carry ammo, 0 failures over about 2000 +p rounds (+ power striker spring, 0.25 cent trigger job with 3.5 connector). If your left handed get a gen4, if not it's really personal preference. Put both in your hands and then decide.

I have personally done accuracy testing with several glock factory barrels fired offhand, benched and ransom rest. I can tell you that what works in one factory glock may not work in another. Just like with any other factory barrel they are made for high production numbers, not bullseye shooting. The BEST I got out of any factory glock barrel was 1.75 inches for 10 shot groups at 25 yards with lots of hand load testing. I found that the bullet type has the largest affect on accuracy. Example winchester 115gr bullets have good weight consistency but the bearing length and an X factor make them shoot between 5 inch groups and 3 inch groups,Sierra and hornady were at the best accuracy end of things. But you really have to try each bullet/ powder OAL/ primer / brass to find a good load for YOUR gun, if you get a Barsto, or wilson barrel you will NOT regret it. Even marginal loads still shoot 2 inch groups, stellar ammo shoots a 1 inch hole. I am doing more accuracy testing with my new KKM gunsmith fit barrel this weekend so we will see what just changing the barrel and keeping the same ammo does (previously 1.9 inch average at 25yds with montana gold and power pistol). I have also found that tite group is very accurate with the correct bullet, but burns a little to fast (snappy recoil).

Welcome. Cody- When I first got in, we polished our boots and rolled sleeves...