Joe L

4# Glock striker spring and keepers, removed some material from the slide plate to keep it from hanging on the frame, LPA adjustable rear sight, some polishing of the trigger bar and block. Sugru on the grip, JB-Weld to hold the trigger safety in the flush position. This is not a match gun, range gun only. I'm waiting for CGW to release a bunch of parts, then I'll buy everything available and put a red dot on it and might shoot it in a local bullseye match, just like I've done with the P-09 and P-07. Joe

Rowdyb, you might use some of your old Glock spring retainers with any of the Glock springs. I had the keepers come loose in my P-10C when using a Wolff 4 lb Glock spring with the CZ keepers. The inside diameter of the Wolff Glock spring is slightly larger than the CZ spring is what I think caused the keepers to get loose. I haven't measured the keepers to see if they are really different yet, but at least two folks have switched to the Glock retainers when using the Glock springs and haven't had a repeat failure, but we don't have many rounds down range yet either. Just a thought. Joe

The usual problem with using a Kadet on a 75B frame for practice comes about when the host frame has a light hammer spring installed to reduce the DA trigger pull in DA/SA mode. If the 9mm slide is used in matches with a 13-15 lb hammer spring, then the Kadet slide is installed, missfires will result, due to the hight hammer spring. This is roughly 10% misfires with a 15 lb spring and unusable with a 13. With a 17 lb hammer spring, reliability is 100% if the ammo is good. For a couple of years, I changed the hammer spring and the slide at the same time, but that is more trouble than most people want to go to. I have since converted to single action only, leave the 17# spring in the gun all the time, and happily switch between 9mm and 22 as desired. But I only have 50k rounds through the Kadet and shoot it in bullseye matches with an Ultradot red dot sight mounted on a home-made rail. All good in 22 land. The Kadet is as accurate as a Ruger or any other fixed barrel design, but much more reliable feeding under match conditions. I can only remember one alibi in 3 years worth of matches with the Kadet. Yes, I won most of those (small, local) monthly matches. Joe

All I have done to a P-10C is install a 4 lb Glock firing pin spring and an LPA adjustable rear sight from a 75B. Trigger pull is about 4.5 lbs now and very manageable. Here is a video from bullseye practice yesterday. Yes, I know it isn't a bullseye gun to most people. For me, maybe. P-10C 25 yard standing single hand 7-16-17 two targets Joe

It's easy to fix the grip on the P-09 or any other polymer frame pistol. Here is a video I made on how I modified mine for bullseye shooting, starting with the minor changes on the 75B and getting to the latest P-07 bullseye gun. pistol grip modification video Joe

I agree that the ergonomics aren't for everyone. I modified the grip and the trigger reach on two P-09s using Sugru and JB-Weld to get it closer to a 75B shape and reach. But the mechanical lock up and resulting accuracy cannot be beat in a production gun, in my opinion. I've shot mine in bullseye matches for a year and have many videos of excellent results at 100 and 200 yards. I haven't ever had any "bad" results at long distances with my original $400 used P-09, and I've won several local friendly bullseye matches with it, much to the consternation of my custom 1911 shooting buddies. There are more videos than people have time to watch at youtube joemustang99. Joe

No. We shoot single hand standing at 25 and 50 yards. Very different discipline than run and gun. Single hand standing at 50 yards is quite humbling, at least in my case. Shooting at 100 from a bench is just something I do when I want to try something a little different. I also have some nerve and muscle damage in my left hand so that my two handed grip on the bench looks a little different than most also. Here is a video of a normal bullseye training session with a 22 and the same .45 I shot in the 100 yard video. 25 yard bullseye with Kadet and CZ-97 Joe

BCP--Yes, I've tried supports under the dust cover and they don't work for me either. I find that I fight the rest to get the sight lined up. I seem to be able to control the pistol better with it not touching anything and my wrists on the rest. I don't have to add or subract any tension that way, so it is easier for me to pull the trigger without moving the gun. I've shot out to 200 yards with a wrist rest with good results many times (9-12" five shot groups with a 9mm). The limitation to me seems to be to duplicate the dot position for each shot and then not move the gun as I pull the trigger. I can see my heartbeat move the dot slightly even at 100 yards. Shooting long distances with a pistol is certainly a separate shooting discipline, and it helps me with bullseye skills just because it reinforces the fundamentals at a very slow shooting pace, and it is the perfect diversion from rigid bullseye training. Thanks for your comments. Joe

I get bored shooting bullseye practice at times, so I go shoot the pistols at 100 or 200 yards. Yesterday was one of those days. My eyesight wasn't good enough for tight groups with the open sight P-10C, so I got out the CZ-97B"E" with the 3 moa red dot and hung a B-8C target near the top of the frame at 100 yards, went back to the bench, fired off 5 rounds, went and placed a fresh target over the (6") group, turned on the cameras and went back to the bench and fired off 10 more rounds. The aim point is maybe 18" above the target and out of the video frame. Here is the result. 100 yards 7-2-17 CZ-97 This pistol has a CGW 1911 style fitted bushing in the slide. This is my bullseye match gun. Atlanta Arms 185 gr JHP, same as I use in a bullseye match. This was a good result for me, as good as my P-09 and 75B (with a CGW bushing). Joe

I've got close to 700 rounds through my P-10C. Runs perfectly on 130 PF Atlanta Arms and Rem UMC ammo. The trigger dingus was a little over protective and didn't fit flush with the trigger face and I fixed that. Other than that, just shoot and lube. I've shot one 2" group at 50 yards off a wrist rest. Accuracy is not a problem. Nothing is really a problem. I put a Glock 4 lb trigger pin spring in it, pull is 4.5 lbs at the break, still a lot of creep, but a smooth trigger. I haven't done any internal trigger bar polishing yet. The slide lock and mag releases were pretty stiff initially, and are fine now. Joe

I have consistently shot under 2" at 50 yards from a wrist rest with a 75B 9mm slide that was only good for 4-6" before the CGW bushing. Here is a group from last week. I changed the zero on the red dot after this. Joe

No slide stop failures on a couple of P-09s yet. I put in CGW trigger return springs, but the same spring is used in the 75 and P series guns, so I am assuming the failure rate will be the same. There are some parts coming out later this year to eliminate the trigger spring issues, I hope. But I only have a little over 10k rounds through the P-09. I've been shooting a CZ-97 more lately. Joe

I have a 97B with the "E" barrel bushing and conversion to SAO by CGW. I use it for bullseye matches. I have long skinny fingers so the large grip is a bonus to me. I put some CZ rubber grips on it, then fattened up the grips a little more with Sugru and added some grip tape. Trigger was easy to tune to the required 3.5 lbs minimum. It is 100% reliable with 185 gr JHP Atlanta Arms ammo. Good groups. The gun is large and heavy, just what I want. Too much so for a lot of folks, however. Here are a few videos out to 100 yards, and the group size is pretty much dependent up the shooter's ability to place a red dot at the same place every round. The gun is good for well under 2" at 50 yards from a rest. Almost as good as a P-09, LOL. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL7GbOFIiTV0wwMk4-4SokhrBLpz9ckRcz Highly recommended, IF the size and reach and weight are suitable for you. Joe

Golly, those P-09's look great!! I shot one with a Burris FF3 3moa in bullseye matches all of 2014. Fine firearm. Joe

I have over 40k rounds through a 75B frame with CGW hammer and sear and the pull and reliability and feel have not changed over the years. I do think the heat treating and the metallurgy on these parts helps. I don't have any concerns at all about the longevity of these parts. I expect to pass them on to my sons. Any chance you need a new sear spring too? I can't imagine a new hammer and sear wearing that fast at all, no matter what the metallurgy and heat treatment they have. Is the slide movement to the rear far enough for the hammer to move far enough to allow the sear to catch it? Did the new parts create a timing issue that didn't exist before? Can you duplicate the problem dry fire? Usually if a sear/hammer won't work in live fire, I can duplicate it in the shop, unloaded. Perhaps try to duplicate the problem in slow motion. Also try cocking the gun with the slide, then push on the hammer from the rear. Can you make the sear slide off the hammer hooks by pushing the hammer from the rear. I am assuming you had some hammer follow issues before you replaced the sear and hammer and then, when you examined the parts, you saw that the sear was worn on the edges due to dragging it over the hammer due to the overtravel adjustment. But could you make the hammer drop with those parts, before you changed them out? I am just wondering if the worn hammer and sear were the culprit to begin with or whether you had something going on in addition to the worn sear? That's all I can come up with. Full disclosure--I've messed up every factory 75 and P series sear I've tried to modify myself and stick with CGW or CZ Custom parts now, the geometry is just too sensitive for amateurs, in my opinion. Even amateurs with good success with 1911 and SIG pistols. In other words, yes, I have some experience creating hammer follow in 75 pistols, all resolved with the credit card tool. Hope you figure it out. Joe

My factory bushing was not good, so my POI shifted some when I put the 10x bushing in a slide that I couldn't really shoot because every other pistol I had was better. After the bushing swap, I re-zeroed the gun and have been happy since. I would expect a zero shift proportional to how bad the factory bushing was. No shift, perhaps you had a pretty good one to begin with, or at least it was concentric. Joe

I know this thread is several weeks old, but I'll respond anyway. We have a very active IDPA and 3 gun match attendance here locally but also have an excellent bullseye outdoor range. A little over two years ago, we started up the local monthly bullseye matches again, after being dormant for years. We have had pretty good participation, and hope to encourage some more local shooters to try it. We shoot a 900 rimfire match followed by a 900 centerfire match, which makes for a full Saturday morning at the range. We lost some people when we started shooting 50 yards slow fire instead of 25 yard slow fire. 50 yard single hand is just difficult to do for average hobby shooters. We've had a few IDPA and 3-gun shooters try it and like it, surprisingly. I like bullseye a bunch, simply because you are either shooting or scoring without a lot of dead time. Plus, I'm older and like the stand and shoot format just fine. Plus I like shooting with red dot sights. We are doing our best to bring in some younger shooters. I will be teaching an introductory bullseye class myself later in the year when we have a little more daylight to work with during the week. Joe

I have tried to convert a P-09 to SAO. The problem is that I couldn't find a good place to install a set screw stop for the trigger so that it can't get far enough forward to reset the trigger bar. Maybe with a little more time it could be done. On a 75 it's easy, just install a trigger with both set screws and limit the pretravel enough to let the sear reset but that's all. You don't have to remove the disconnector but I do on the 75. I'm thinking drill and tap a hole in the frame for a pretravel stop and do it that way. I went back to DA/SA after mocking up a trigger pretravel limit with JB-Weld. That worked, but wasn't permanent. By the way, the trigger metal is not soft. Joe

Take the firing pin out and clean everything, put it back together, then try the pencil test again. Especially if you dread sending off the slide. If you don't mind the gun or slide being tied up for a few weeks, sure send it it, but I bet it is an easy fix. Joe

Here is a video demonstrating 18 good shots and 2 where I still moved the gun when pulling the trigger. These are NOT from a rest, this is single hand, standing, 25 yards, bullseye timed fire. But this also demonstrates what one can learn to do, starting with the fundamental drills from a rest that BE detailed above. https://youtu.be/RxB9sNLJcIY One of these days, I'll shoot 60 good shots in a row, pulling the trigger without moving the gun! I also went two clicks up on the Burris FF 3 sight after this video. Joe

There are two considerations for me regarding the way a gun feels. The first is the reach to the trigger after all the pretravel is taken out. If the reach is too short, I have a tendency to use too much finger insertion. If it is too long, sometimes I can't get the pad of my finger on the trigger. The other is the shape of the grip and the contact I get on the sides. I have long fingers and large hands, so I usually want a fat ovalized cross section grip. Most polymer guns are the shape of the magazine plus a little. I have JB-Welded the flat sides of a CZ P-09 just to make it more oval. This also increases the reach to the trigger. I've also added some JB-Weld to the front side of the trigger blade to increase the reach. When the grip shape is right and the reach is right, you trigger finger goes to the right spot when you pick up the gun, and the gun has full contact with the palm of your hand. I have spent a lot of money on grips, grip tape, JB-Weld, and then used an X-acto knife and files to get what I want. It makes a difference. I also have found as one poster stated above--sometimes it takes a while to figure out what needs to be changed and by how much. I give a new gun a few sessions without change before I start modifying it, but modify I will definitely do. Lots of options for a 1911, but one has to work at it on a polymer gun. Joe

I know this is a not a recent thread, but I wanted to add a couple of variations for your consideration. Here is the sequence I used to become pretty good at precision shooting. 1. Two handed from a bench rest like BE described. 50 yards minimum. 2. Two handed from a forearm rest without the gun touching anything, just resting forearms on the rest, with one's wrists and gun forward of the rest. The rest takes all the movement away except what you induce with breathing and pulse rate and ... trigger pull. With a red dot sight, I've shot out to 200 yards this way, only to 100 with open sights and not recently. 3. Single hand from a forearm rest without the gun touching anything, just resting one forarm on the rest. This is a bullseye type grip but with much more stability. However, it WILL result in large groups IF you can't seem to pull the trigger without moving the gun. That is the value of shooting from a rest but without any constraint on the gun as one pulls the trigger. I know most of the folks here are not bullseye shooters. One can't do well in bullseye without being able to pull the trigger without moving the gun. Bullseye practice will help you with the run and gun disciplines as will shooting from a rest. If you are interested in watching some videos of 100-200 yards, two handed grip from a bench, take a look at these... https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL7GbOFIiTV0xt-yUxqYvFX6tek_pEmLes Joe

I shot bullseye matches with a CZ P-09 polymer 9mm pistol all of 2014. I won several matches with it. For 2015, I switched to a steel CZ-97, more weight, larger holes, LOL. Grip and trigger control have to be good with either pistol. I enjoyed shooting the light 9mm polymer gun so much, I may go back to it. This particular pistol is full of CGW parts and is a tack driver. I've shot it very well at 100 and 200 yards with good ammo. Yes, the recoil distance off target is greater than with the heavier gun, but it is also quicker to get back on, so overall, not as big a problem as I thought it might be when I decided to shoot it instead of an all steel SIG in 2014. Here is a practice session at a timed fire pace during practice at 25 yards, using Atlanta Arms 115 JHP ammo. Joe

You need the starter punch for a 75 frame trigger pin and hammer strut, but not for the P-09 /07 trigger pin or hammer strut. I have a few CZ P-09 parts intallation videos on my You Tube channel if interested http://www.youtube.com/JoeMustang99 Joe

For someone switching hammer springs between a centerfire slide and a Kadet, it will save a few seconds, plus it's ingenious. The reason it is on CGW's site is because a lot of fellows over on the CZ Forum wanted to buy the tool, so CGW sells them for Joe (not this Joe). Joe also makes several other CZ specific tools, especially for the Kadet. He is a genius, but not a business person. The tool is useful, but not a necessity. I have one because I used to switch the springs a bunch before having a dedicated 22 frame converted to single action, and left a 17# spring installed. Joe