goldfieldshooter

Larrys Short Stories #120 'How I aquired the Bianchi Cup' That would be a best seller!

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There is always a room at our hasienda. Coatesy

If you do not have a mover just set up a static target. At ten yards face the way the target would normally come from and set timer for 5 sec. So you are shooting a static mover at reduced time. Then you repeat but start, faceing to the opposite side. Then move back to 15 yds and repeat. Keep going, do the 3 shot strings at 20 and 25 until you have done all 48 shots.You will be suprised how well it works. Coatesy

Sorry All. Another rule change that never hit the airwaves. That didn't last long. Coatesy

Dead right Chris. She has the Bianchi Highest Score for women and this will go in the record as beating her previous one but it will not be a US National Record. Her previous one was pre 2008 so she most likely got a National Record Certificate as well. Coatesy

Great shooting from Anita and a brilliant Bianchi Cup High Score. Unfortunately she cannot set a National Record of any sort as she is not an American citizen Section 17 of rule book. This rule was brought in about 2008. Don't ask me how I know Coatesy

To bring this to the top again. Was there any official announcements during the Cup? Time marches on. Coatesy

No BS; The Match needs Tom!!!!!

Take your cheque books guys. International prize winners might be paying 30% tax before you can pick them up.

He is one guy that always gets his brass back. Even if I have to bring it with me. Well done mate. Coatesy

Try NZ$90/lb . Thats US$67.50. Coatesy

Make sure it still makes the 3.5lb trigger pull. Coatesy

I have heard nothing. Asked Tom for info on 27th Feb, no reply as yet. Coatesy

Don't drop the rod into the primer tube. Friend dropped the rod into a half full tube and lost the top off his little finger as the rod blew out and into the ceiling. The sight of his finger certainly tidyed up my reloading habits.

This has been discussed many times before and experimented with. The normal use of Dillon caselube does not effect the powder in any way. Do a search I am sure you will find adequate posts on the subject. I can honestley say that in 15 years I have not had a malfunction caused by caselube. Coatesy

It does help being this side of the date line

Welcome Pete You will find a wealth of knowledge on the forum and as for silly questions you can always find one that sillier than the one you have just asked. First stop go to Reloading and check out the info on your XL650. Any problems you run into you can be sure that somebody has already fixed it somewhere along the line. Welcome from Thames NZ.

If you are using Super and S/Comp brass be aware that the Super brass will not fit in the S/Comp shell plate and might give you holdups. I never changed the locator but I do sort my brass. Half a bucket of Super sitting there at the moment and the boys will swap it for the SC they find.

Go the coated bullet route. No leading, very little smoke and cost effective. Bayou or Blue bullets would be my recommendation.

Try TG @ $NZ70 /lb and N320 @ $NZ90/lb. Our powder come via USA and it is just shipping and profit added on top of what you guys pay. For some reason the ADI (Australian) powders, like Clays, are not much cheaper. Never had much luck in 38Super open Action Pistol with Clays but works OK in metallic sight loads. Coatesy

pm me for the formula. Coatesy Kiwi Gunstocks

ede It is not the crimp that holds the projectile in the case but the tension between projectile and case. This is controlled by the sizing die (squeezes case inwards) and the end of the powder funnel that expands the case outwards and bells the case mouth slightly.The size of the funnel end and the projectile diameter controls how tight the projectile is retained by the case. The crimp removes the bell from the case mouth + a couple of thou, allowing the bullet to feed properly. A roll crimp is for revolver bullets that have a crimp groove in the projectile. I would check the size of the new projectiles you are useing against the original ones as this looks like the only thing you have changed. Hope this helps you. Coatesy

Just done the same and struck the same problem. Cleaned up the drop tubes and green adaptors and problem went away. Just a slight build up of c**p and case lube.

Electroless Nickel Plateing. Had a 1911 done to take up wear (frame and slide) and it is still tight and slick after approx 30k rounds.Goes like a mirror when it is run in.