bigfish

http://www.thespeedledge.com/

After this happening twice I think I would consider gettting an auto indexing press

Shorts if its warm enough, they dry faster and hold less water after they get wet so they are lighter

If youre having a hard time finding beginners to help out, you could always auction them off and then give the money to the nra!

I though I read somewhere that the 5" models where supposed to be coming out around June. But that was a while back that I read that

If you can find a G17 4th gen to rent that will give you an idea of the G34 4th gen feel since they use the same frame. Glock has to by far have the most aftermarket parts out there if you dicide to change anything on it. The m&p has changable back straps so you can change the feel of the gun and is the only one of the three made in America. If you decide to get a XDm get the 5.25 for the extra sight radius.

Use your origanal tac grips if you still have them to trace the pattern onto staketape so you don't have to spend as much time trimming after you get them installed

The only thing that Ive broken in a m&p is the factory striker and thins gun get used alot. That being said the old striker was the old style and replacement one is the new style. My replacement one has aready lasted twice as long as the origanal one. Other then that maybe keep a couple of replace FO rods for the front sight in your bag.

There seemed to be plenty of reloading supplies at gunshow I was at last weekend, some vendors are honost, others are out to make a buck.

Not all semiautos like to release the slide using the slingshot type method. I have two 1911s that dont like to release from slide lock that way. Sometimes you might have to rack that slide a dozen times before it releases. Then there are some cheap handguns out there that dont even have a slide release so you have to rack the slide to release it. You need to know both methods. Just something to keep inmind.

I love the FBS bowl season, I know there are plenty of reason to hate bowls and say we need a playoff system (I agree but thats not the point so don't go there) but it is fun to spend a week coming home from work and almost everynight watching some of the best teams in the nation go at it. Another thing that makes it great is the fact that if your teams are not competing you have no skin in the game so its all just for fun! And as for my last .02, Go Notre Dame!

If you are just looking to get your feet wet and test the open waters, then go with the m&p. It will most likey be a easier gun to build since the parts are going to be drop in, and also cheaper. If you are planning to be a serious open division shooter, then get a 2011, it will cost more, but probably perform better. I love my m&p and shoot mostly production, but at the end of a day its a striker fired gun will never have as good of trigger as a 1911

They have them in stock right now using the link, just not with the extra power spring. You might have to find and order those from somewhere else.

The other thing is if you not staggering you stance just a tiny bit it will make you lean more forward then most other shooters because the gun isnt ever centered right in front of you. It should be in front of one of you eyes making your other side arm too short to reach up there squarly. If you dont stagger your stance alittle bit you will tend to lean farther forward and compensating with your upper body to get you week hand up there.

I think that alot of times people tend to hunch when they are looking hard/reaching for more difficult shots. You shouldn't have that problem on these closer shots from classifiers, but thats not whats going on here is it?

Welding is a great skill that can be used you whole life, and made much easier if you have a mig welder. Its such a hassel to have to take the time to go and have someone fix something for you, especailly if you break a target on the weekends when everyone is closed.

Sand it down with finer grit sandpaper until the texturing is gone. Then duracoat it and you will be fine. It would be an easy and cheap fix. After you get down to maybe 800 or 1000 grit the duracoat will fill in the rest. Maybe you could just beadblast it and have a stainless colared slide.

What a deal, that $20 dollars cheaper then the used colt military turn ins that they had last week!

You might get gouged a little bit, but if you need primers right now a gun show might be your best bet. There where plenty at the one I went to last weekend.

It could be that you are putting too much crimp on it. Berry bullets are really soft, so if you are putting too much crimp on your groups will show it. Look at the holes on the target and make sure that they are good circles and not oval or keyhole shaped. If they are you most likely have too much crimp and the bullet is starting to tumble/wobble in the air. The other thing to consider is that plated bullets are not as accurate as jacketed bullets usually.

I've played with red dots and finially got an eotech. A good red dot works fine but they arent even on the same level as a eotech.

I also shoot 147 precision bullets. They smoke a little bit but not as bad as a regular hard cast bullet. They seem to be accurate and and cheap. I plan on buying more this year again, but if I shoot any major matches then I will use some type of jacketed bullet for that

I'm sure it's not what you want to hear, but you could forget the 2011 and buy a XDm 5.25 and a XDm subcompact. At that point you could also use the 5.25 for production and limited, plus you would still have a single stack

I shoot 147's. I had to switch to a lighter recoil spring to make the gun run reliably, but I like the soft recoil. Cost isnt that big of a deal to me when its maybe a $100-$150 extra over the course of a year. That isn't that much compared to all the little things that nickle and dime you though out a season of competition shooting.

I'm not sure if the gun would be production legal if you remove the sear disconnect since it serves as a saftey to make you look down the gun to verify its clear to break it down but I could be wrong. But yes, once the mag saftey is removed you can break it down just by pulling the trigger with out doing anything with the sear disconnect lever.