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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About halogrinder

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    Finally read the FAQs

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  • Location
    houston tx
  • Interests
    shooting guns, going fast
  • Real Name
    alex noll

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  1. I would avoid Redx like the plague. Their customer service is pitiful, their lead times were months for a stripped upper and some other miscellaneous parts, and the machine work is less than stellar. Avoid avoid avoid.
  2. update: Ill be putting more videos into this area...... http://contour.com/users/halogrinder if you see anything you like/dont like/comment/suggest/props i would appreciate it. its my local IDPA practice i do..... need to keep recording so i can see my mistakes! this group of videos were from 2/23, i got 3rd out of 15.
  3. thanks for the responses folks. the reason i do the slingshot teqnique is because i *KNOW* with authority, any gun i pick up, will charge the weapon like that. Being a LEFT handed person in a RIGHT handed world does not equal equality unfortunately. I try to shoot IDPA like i would shoot in real world. yes, i dont carry a 5.25 XDM daily, but carry a XD9sc, same ergonomics. I would have to say, that i appreciate the input and will follow up with what I find. I especially like the idea of using the right hand index finger for slide lock release, and will look into it... but at the end of the day, small motor functions dissapear under high stress environments, and the slingshot- while slightly slower will charge any semi auto, any day. I'll try to get some better video, and some better skills shortly
  4. 100+ have viewed the post.... Nothing? I plan on putting a few more vids of movement and shooting to see what y'all think
  5. I am a noob IDPA shooter, but have been shooting all my life. please review this video for me, and tell me what i could be doing better/faster. all shots were "A" shots, no wild ones. the shot timer was off of my phone, i was trying to use a 2.7 par time..... and was trying to react to the buzzer, thats why my shot has a gap before i reload. thanks! http://contour.com/videos/watch/reloads http://contour.com/stories/reoads-2 now, i know these arent the best videos, but any help is better than no help
  6. Since it seems that almost all posts are somewhat related to oil changes- get a sample sent to blackstone laboratories if you want to know ACTUAL distances you can go on your oil changes SAFELY.
  7. I dunk the head of the bolt in redline shockproof and Lucas oil treatment mixed, shake it off hard and drop it in. Done.
  8. If you want ultimate stickiness use Lucas oil treatment. Stuff is AMAZING. I agree, shockproof oil from redline is fantastic stuff. Mix it and you shoot A shots only!!! But seriously, it's what I use, and use in my cars/trucks/race cars etc. works great in my guns too.
  9. i would look at your safety glasses and really scrutinize the design and rating. most- and i mean the MAJORITY of safety glasses and shooting glasses are only rated to Z87.1-2003 spec. this rating is a 1/4" steel ball that is shot at the lens @ 150 FPS. you would think that is a pretty decent safety factor! *BUT* you can get WAY better spec'ed glasses. look for MIL-PRF-31013. these glasses are rated for a cylindrical shape and an angled face (think= bullet) projectile that is .15 caliber and travels at 650 FPS. think about that. Z87.1 = 1/4" round ball at 150 FPS. MIL-31013 = .15 caliber (3/20") at 650 FPS. the choice (excuse the pun) is clear. I ONLY WANT MIL-31013 GLASSES! personally, after finding this tidbit of information, i quickly stopped using my z87.1 glasses and switched ALL of my glasses to MIL-31013 glasses. i ordered mine from safteyglassesusa.com. they are cheap insurance! like the cheapest MIL-31013 is like 3 bucks! i bought about 15 pair- and next time i go out to shoot pigs im going to bring my old glasses along with a few new ones for the sake of science and see how they do against some common caliber bullets..... hopefully this puts (dang you puns!) some sight into your glasses
  10. What about a Watson's clip on 50? Its got an ar upper so rear sight wouldnt be an issue-front sight could be clamped on the barrel
  11. Besides being a great holster, I have met Greg the owner and shot with him. He's a GREAT guy (and local to me) so its a win-win. Good product/nice guy/support local business
  12. Sort. Tumble with walnut and Nu-shine car wax. Spray with oneshot. Station 1: decap, reprime, resize. Station 2: empty Station 3: Dillion trimmer, resized again. Station 4: empty Then, Inspection of primers and mouth is chamfered with a pocket reamer I'll do 500-800 like this...... Ready to go brass. When I want to load: Station 1: empty Station 2: powder Station 3 : bullet seater. Station 4: crimper. Bullets get retumbled again to clean and remove lube, sticky bullets suck! And recently the bane of my AR's existence........ I must have picked up some 222 swift....... They made it into the magazine and into the chamber...... Acts like a hang fire and ruins your day until you get a cleaning rod to knock it out! Stupid 222's
  13. Ground your machine, and rub it down with drier sheets. It helps with static, and gives it that spring time fresh smell Seriously though, I HATE using varget with .223 because of that exact issue. My 550 bridges varget like crazy..... And I load inside...... Powder in the carpet is no good! I use h335 and havent looked back. Uses less, cheaper overall.
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