slavex

Wondering if my RL1050 toolheads will work on a CP2000 if I get one for processing 9mm? Looking to setup case debris check, deprime, size, ream all on one machine and would need the CP2000 to do it, vs using two different toolheads now on the RL1050. I know the index pins are different lengths, but since I'm only worried about pistol brass I wouldn't think it should matter but wanted to double check.

both my first edition Arcore (nitride) S2s cracked and had to be machined to stop the crack from spreading and the locking block coming apart.

Girlfriend needs lighter mag catch spring in her new gun, as she can barely manipulate the factory one, even using her support hand. Install, tighten down the screw, and it makes the spring bind when you press the mag catch. Back screw off a bit, no issue, but now it's not down tight on the spring. Her other Czechmate and all the other CZs I've installed the same spring in, no issue. The area the spring goes down in front of had some chatter and burs, so I cleaned that up, made it better, but if you tighten the screw, it will still bind, enough that the mag catch won't spring back. Anyone seen this before, any ideas?

if you're shredding buffers in 20 rounds you're doing something wrong. More shooters use buffers than don't, at least at the high level, I asked every CZ shooter I could find at the World shoot in Thailand, and I've asked for a decade plus of competition in Europe. Those that hate them, hate them, the rest of us recognize they are useful and like any part in the gun, should be looked at occasionally. I've shot thousands of rounds after one started to fail and come apart and had zero failures as a result. Going into a match if I saw one was cut or chewed up, I'd replace it, and know that it would last a couple seasons in the match gun thereafter. Practice gun they last between 20-30k and save on the frame battering by the spring box on the slide and vice versa.

interesting that it will work with the Pro models too as the DAA one apparently doesn't.

check the hammer pins and see if they are moving too easily in the gun that locked up. Angus has stated many times that CZC likes the staked hammer pins as the unstaked ones can walk out during the firing sequence and bind up. I've never had that happen and use CGW hardened hammer pins, but it can happen.

any mods done to the hammer?

I look forward to being smothered while loading John....... I wonder if there would be a way to shorten the toolhead travel on a Revo (other than cutting the main shaft lol). Maybe a different index assembly and some software tweaks?

I run the Springer Precision magwell, don't need short grips, but I do need to use Tanfo base pads from Henning as his CZ pads aren't compatible with the magwell. I too am in a 10 round country so no extra capacity or anything.

I don't think those 16 round mags are compatible with Shadows

I've been running flat safeties since I first saw them at the Extreme Euro in Czech in 2010. Back then they were still sold for the Rami, and not really marketed at the Shadow, but a few of the Euro team guys had em and gave me some. When I got first set of 2s they still came with both sets of safeties, so I swapped in the flat immediately. I hate the CZ style of oversized safety as I have a very high grip and end up jamming against the left side one with my support hand. Same with the standard slide catch, I run a flat there too.

Yeah I'm curious as to the round count on the barrel that was replaced too. Only gun I've seen do similar as the OP describes was a very very shot out Glock with a cracked chamber. It ran, it was reasonably accurate, but almost every case that it ejected was split too.

I have a set of Henning Tanfo pads for when I go slum in Standard or Open with my Shadow 2 or OR Shadow 2 and put the magwell on. The bit of material on the pad that contacts the frame needs to be a bit thinner when using a magwell, but, without a magwell if you used the same pads, you can over insert the mag at slidelock. So I don't think there is a universal fit.

you need to get the ones for the Tanfo mags, as they have a thinner shoulder than the CZ mag extensions. Or, you need to do some fitting of the pads.

make sure to clean it somewhat regularly and hit with some furniture wax to keep it slick

The DAA Flex, for a race holster, is the best thing you can get. I swapped out to one after the World shoot and absolutely love it. Got one for the gf to use her Czechmate in and she's also very happy.

that gouge can just be smoothed out and won't affect the running at all. It's when it breaks the locking block area of the frame off that you will be screwed (I did 4 of those with my old Elite IIs)

I run 3.3ish grains of Titegroup (ish because it depends on the time of year).

buy the DAA plate for the casefeeder, it comes with a really nice wedge that will stop this, and you get a better shellplate as a result too

Robin has a cool place though, if you're ever in Czech. And he's a super nice guy.

you guys going to be selling just the safeties for that?

I sent and email off explaining it and didn't get anywhere with it. My other AC trigger has slightly more material in the top hole as have others I've installed, which is a couple dozen. I've got more incoming so will check them and see what they are like.

contacting the safety with my support hand is the entire reason I run flush safeties, even on my TS2 Racing Green. Even on 1911's I can't not jam my hand into the safeties, hence the reason I don't own any. Although I have seen a bunch of my buddies with SVs that have safeties that sit flush with the grip panel, so I guess I could have ordered something like that. I've tried altering my grip to be less thumb forward with the support hand and find it just doesn't work.

As much as I like TTI stuff, the CZ basepads blow. That they haven't updated their design to fix the thin spot there is surprising, it's a known issue for years.

I've yet to see a Shadow 2 that needs the trigger bar springs messed with, unless previously messed with by the owner taking out the screw that holds it and the mag catch spring in. Typically people overtighten and twist the trigger bar spring so it doesn't ride right. Or they bend them in an attempt to, I don't know, change them. And that then screws everything up. I've seen maybe 2 Shadows (not Shadow 2s, but regular Shadows) break a trigger bar spring, and both were super high round count guns. My newest Armory Craft trigger didn't really have any threads in the top screw hole, the metal there is too thin to really support threads. The included screw fell out when I put the wrench in it. I used red loctite to put a new screw in it, and that's working for now, but I'll probably just replace the trigger at some point with a new one. They specifically don't cover those holes being stripped.