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a brass rod would just wear out over time due to the shellplate contacting it during rotation. MK7 alleviates that by having a probe retractor that sits at the outside edge of the shellplate and is designed to take the abuse of the rotating shellplate and push the probe down as the shellplate moves. You'd need to do that, or just regularly replace the brass probe. A camera or laser sensor would probably be the way to go.

I run the Popper exclusively on my Revo and Mk7 automated 1050, and normally run the standard pins, they punch through the small flash holes just fine usually, but that can leave a bur, or flashing that can interfere with primer seating. Usually the reamer in the swage station will pick that up. When I know I'm going to be seeing small flash hole stuff for sure, I swap out the pin to the 0.057 one and run it. Usually forgetting to swap it out for normal brass and then sadly breaking it on a rock or something (I process other people's brass and they suck sometimes at removing debris). The large pins break in that case too, so it's not like the small pin breaks that much easier. The MA pins will thread in, but they are nowhere near as durable as the FW ones, buy a bunch of the FW ones and be happy.

good to see what the issue was. The newer CZs have really really short throats, even the CZechMate. No idea why they've done this. I've had to reduce my OAL for my 147s to 1.095", I used to load to 1.12"

trim the screw so you can screw it in further. it will only barely stick out the face of the trigger on a gun without the reach reduction kit, but will work if you make the screw short enough. Too long of a screw and it binds up on the trigger return spring.

good to see you back at it dude! Curious, why wouldn't the cutter you used in an SP01 won't work in a Shadow 2 barrel? Or do you just not have that stuff anymore?

TTI Shadow pads break really really fast in my experience. Like, a few drops and they are done.

the only machining you can do to a production gun in IPSC is for mounting optics. Anything else removes the gun from PD. You could register in Standard, or Open.

the magwell pads can be over inserted if used without a magwell and slide locked back, causing the mag to hit the ejector and cause damage to it. They are basically the Tanfo pads, as the Tanfo had a slightly longer grip and the pads made contact with the grip before over insertion could occur. The CZ pads for non magwell are a tad thicker at the top and prevent over insertion. I run one set of each, one for magwells, one for no magwell

our dealers sold out before stuff even hit the shelves as we can't buy handguns anymore, but we can buy slides and barrels (and without a licence for the time being too).

none left up here (canada) as far as I know, but more are coming in, along with apparently, 40 S&W TS2 complete uppers and complete Czechmate uppers for the TS2 frame as well.

these are being sold and marketed as "needs fitting". Not one of them will even come close to actually going into a frame.

@r4ptor yeah, it is going to be a pain, if I knew of a qualified smith up here that I trusted, I would send to them. but, sadly, Canada is lacking in that regards in a big way.

it quite specifically is needing fitting. This is a factory new slide that hasn't been fitted to any frame.

Looking for tips on fitting a new slide to a Shadow 2. I recently got a new OR slide (with the rear cocking serrations too which is nice) and it needs a fair bit of work on the rails to fit the frame it's destined for. I'd love to take on the challenge, but have no idea of what kind of jigs and such I'll need. I've done plenty of barrel fittings, but never a slide and can't even remember what the setups at CZ looked like when I was there. I've looked at Brownells and don't see anything there for clamps or jigs, and can't find anything through a search on Google.

the dovetail is the same width as a regular Shadow 2 I think, but longer and the sight itself is different with the set screw as there is no roll pin to hold it in place.

it is possible to damage the slide dovetail by hitting the sight against something. Carefully check the dovetail and see if it's warped or twisted. It can also shatter if you're not careful. With a new front sight it should slide in with only a little bit of effort, and then make sure you're drilling the hole/slot from the left side of the slide. use a 2mm drill bit to do this. Then, new roll pin and all should be good. If your sight is loose you will need to order an oversized/unfinished one and fit it yourself.

to stop the battering of your spring box on the frame.

I only do 9mm no 223. A buddy said he'd make me a funnel for primers, if I get the machine, which is still up in the air right now.

I have an Immortobot die for checking for stepped cases and a custom made die for debris check. I took a spring loaded FW arms decapping die and drilled a hole in the top, extended the shaft and mounted a micro switch on top that is activated if the rod pushes up. I use a broken decapping pin that reaches right to the bottom of a case for debris checking. But I think the Immortobot die will end up doing that well enough too.

good to know. I know Vince is running his on the 2nd swage station, so it's doable, maybe he's updated the housing since you did the testing?

great info thank you! I don't intend to swage at all, but ream with Vince's reamer that I currently use on the RL1050 (will need some parts from him to make the transition I guess). I have access to a hydraulic press, so hammering isn't necessary lol. But really, I won't need multiple toolheads for the CP as I'll be able to one pass process with the reamer on the other side, Station 2 (normally decapping) debris sense, 3 decap (normally swage), 4 another sensor for checking for stepped cases, 5 sizing maybe, 6 empty, 7 ream, 8 empty. I need the spare toolhead right now so I can run the debris sense die and case check die on their own, before risking decap pins on unknown brass (I do this for other people's brass). But that adds another step, and time, to the whole process. I occasionally will do the debris check on the Revo, but hate swapping toolheads on it just for that. That's my loading machine.

the big thing for me is the ability to swage on the left side of the press (well ream actually). Otherwise there is no benefit to changing from my RL1050 at all. But it seems strange that the 1100 and the 2000 don't share that ability.

Thanks for the reply! So the base of the machine does not have the holes machined in it for those pins? I had thought that upgrading a CP2000 to a priming machine was possible through the purchase of the extra parts. Maybe purchasing an 1100 is a better option then or does it not offer the ability to swage on both sides? The same question regarding toolheads would apply to that option though. edited to add, Just went through the user manuals and I see I wildly mixed up. I thought the CP2000 and the 1100 were the same base machine, just with a few different parts. I guess since the 2000 comes with a toolhead it's not an issue to swap all my dies and stuff over and just sell my Super and RL 1050s and toolheads.

Wondering if my RL1050 toolheads will work on a CP2000 if I get one for processing 9mm? Looking to setup case debris check, deprime, size, ream all on one machine and would need the CP2000 to do it, vs using two different toolheads now on the RL1050. I know the index pins are different lengths, but since I'm only worried about pistol brass I wouldn't think it should matter but wanted to double check.

both my first edition Arcore (nitride) S2s cracked and had to be machined to stop the crack from spreading and the locking block coming apart.