slavex

@SuperKing I do not, I do not like the short reach kits due to their reducing the throw of the hammer and resulting light strikes

I don't think they are rated at different rates, just "reduced" at least the Cesar-shop ones I have in my guns.

I've switched out the 85 Combat triggers in all my 2s for Ultimate Triggers from Eemann. They've hit it out of the park with them, I only wish they had them in steel not just aluminum. But, then the lighter trigger return springs might not like to reset the trigger (not that it's been an issue with the 85C triggers). I did have one that wasn't machined right and I had to hit it with a diamond file to get the trigger spring room to sit when on the trigger bar. I also had to shorten the pretravel screw down to get it to work with the Eemann disco, now I have basically zero pretravel and DA sets up just fine.

I'd also buy a new bushing, or put your old one back in.

I have them in all my guns actually and the GFs too. no issues with mags falling out on their own. Table starts with loaded guns are always annoying, regardless of the spring strength though.

a number of companies sell reduced power mag catch springs which might be the better option

I've been shooting CamPro 147gr flat nose in my Shadows and Shadow 2s for a decade and a half. Accuracy is phenomenal and the recoil pulse is much nicer than 124s. In a match I don't notice or care, but in practice I sure do, especially when doing dot drills and such. I'd give the 158s a try but I don't feel like starting in with a new powder when I have hundreds of pounds of Titegroup to burn through.

honestly I've never understood that rational for tuning springs, for me the key is does the muzzle dip when the slide returns to battery. If it does, then it's too heavy of spring. Simple.

the difference in slide velocity going to the rear with 12lb spring vs a 9lb spring would be pretty much zero. Michal Stepan of the CZUB factory team did a really good video for his engineering course, showing the difference in slide speed with different springs and bullet weights. The only real difference was on the slide going forward, going back you needed a spring so heavy that the slide would barely move before you really saw a speed difference.

yup, always

9lb in my Optic Ready with SRO and 9lb in my Orange and other Shadow 2s ( 5 total). 9lb in the gf's 4 2's as well. I used to run an 8lb in the Shadow 2 but was advised by Robin Sebo to step up to 9lb, didn't notice a difference in how it handled, so I was happy to do so. But 10-11lb drive the muzzle down when they go back into battery for me.

Due to the manufacturing variances in Shadow 2 frame/trigger guards some fitting is often required on the insert. I had to open mine up slightly for one of my first Shadow 2s, even though it was part of a consecutive set CZ sent me. One was tight and one was perfect in the insert. I ended up with one a tiny bit loose and one perfect after fitting. Since then my next bunch have been mostly perfect with the new Optic Ready being the best fit so far. From the sounds of it you just need to watch Saul's video (on the DAA website) on how to fit the insert.

it's sad when the head of IROA doesn't know what he is talking about. He is inserting his own desires into this, not what the Rules Committee has actually said, or done. The rule is quite clear, and he's trying to change it. 18.4 Aftermarket springs and trigger assemblies are permitted.

I'm running 9lb recoil and hammer springs in my gun from ipsc4you (Germany). After struggling to find springs that weigh the advertised amount, Greg got that right. Cajun also does a good job that way too. In my experience the longer the spring, the lighter the spring, longer with thinner wire. Shorter with thicker. That includes the factory springs I've bothered to test before tossing them

I agree 100% with you on that RowdyB, I've got a safe full of Shadows and Shadow 2s (14 I think now or something) and the girlfriend has the A01 as do a number of friends. The Orange sits above them all in terms of fitting and accuracy, except for the A01, it is just as accurate, but I don't like the feel or looks of it (and Angus is a good friend so I hate saying that). I much prefer the look and feel of the Shadow 2, and the Orange just takes the fitting to a new level. My only one complaint, is that the gun should be a full Arcore frame like my first two Shadow 2s were (and they are my backup and practice gun now). Sequentially numbered and made for me at the factory, they are still my favorite frame type. For the money the Orange should not be Polycoated, it should be Arcore.

@tmzthe wave spring is still there

oooh I like that thin metal piece for between the shell plate and the top plate

the bracket on the case feeder is for a Mr Bullet Feeder to attach to, not a Lyman one.

https://benstoegerproshop.com/cz-shadow-2-flat-low-profile-slide-stop/

I want that on/off and upside down primer sensor on the ramp to work with the Revo primer collator.

oh noes, sprue marks on the toolhead, the horror (looks at his 1050 toolheads and sees the same). I see a nice market for people to offer customization to toolheads, nice finishing services, maybe chrome plating. I am getting PTSD flashbacks to my time in the feed plant and having to clean the shaker decks from our pellet mills. they operate exactly the same as the new Primer Express, although I think after looking at it, that it won't jam and plug up like our shaker decks did.

shoot the gun one handed with those loads, ensuring your thumb is nowhere near the slidestop lever. I think you'll be surprised. Then order a few of the flush slidestops for the 2. Or, dremel the existing slidestop flat. bullet length will have nothing to do with the gun locking back empty. the only reasons it could not occur is if the slide didn't travel back far enough to allow the slidestop lever to move up under pressure from the follower and spring, or the slidestop is damaged and not engaging the follower shelf, or the followers are damaged, or and this is the most common one, your hand is riding the slidestop.

call the 800 number and hit 2. they are slammed I know that. Fine tuning the index adjustment so that the primer probe retractor isn't being contacted by the shellplate in it's stopped position is key to getting that adjusted right, otherwise you end up with errors. It's worth talking to them while you're at the machine and having them guide you through all that. your swage probably needs that little screw above the microswitch adjusted so that when it's over compressed it triggers the screw. Send pics of the press encountering a primer in the swage station and what the sensor looks like we can diagnose from there. If you're on FB add me, Robert Engh, and I can show you how my machine is running with 147gr bullets. I load at 3000 RPH on my Revo with the primer collator, clutch at 2, index at 1, no slow down or dwell.

so a buddy and had to pull 2200 rounds that he'd loaded on my automatic machine, with zero powder being dispensed. (yes he's a dummy lol). And that burned out the collet in my Quinetics puller about half way through. We then went to the older style collet that I had sitting around and it was frustrating. We looked at how we could do the same thing with those old collets and the O-ring around them, but couldn't get a good staking mark on the collet. Instead, I grabbed my super glue and activator, and glued the O-ring into place on the collet and cut it one spot. Boom, works exactly the same as the Quinetics. I already had the shim plate installed too, so it works just awesome. We hammered out those rounds super quick after that. He did order me some replacement collets though, which Canada post promptly lost, waiting on the replacements for those now.

I run my Shadow 2s wet, the gun will shake off any excess oil when you shoot it.