slavex

Well, technically 3135 RPH with the Index at 2. Got her dialed in nicely now, CCI primers, cases are rollsized and processed beforehand. Running 3.22gr of Tightgroup, CCI SPP, mixed range brass, 147gr CamPro bullet.

@N7VY so I never ended up replacing the needle bearings in the above offset bearing. I got the info from Dillon what needles to order, ordered them through a local supplier, aaaaand they were too short. In the meantime I got a near new RL1050 from a buddy, tore it down to clean it and lube it and measured the needle bearings in it, and they were identical. I did replace the mainshaft pivot pin back then though as it was horribly worn from the previous owner, he'd loaded at least a million and a half rounds (commercial reloader). It's done about the same in my hands since I first posted this. The last few years before I got my Revolution I was loading up to 200,000 a year for myself and some friends (it's been motorized for ages). The mainshaft pin is needing replacement again as are the two bearing sets for the crankshaft. The other RL1050 is setup for 223 processing and is still rock solid, but it's had a much easier life than this machine.

That is awesome!

More pics! And super cool dude.

Like the video I clean very seldom, but lube regularly. My match gun (Shadow 2 Orange) I clean more than my practice gun, maybe 2500 rounds or so vs 5000+. My practice gun and previous match gun were both Arcore frames (Nitride) with no polycoat, and cleaning them is super easy, a cloth and some mild cleaner was all that was needed. The polycoat frames need a bit more work though. If it's been raining and the gun got wet I'll soak with wd40 and wipe down, then relube.

My Euro load was 3.2gr of 320 with a 145gr bullet. Super soft, super clean

bringing back to the top again, got that same machine torn down right now. looks like I might need another 13258 Mainshaft Pivot Pin, does anyone know what the diameter of that pin should be? I replaced it back in 2007 when I tore it all apart, and while not as bad as the old pin (which I kept) it definitely has a bunch if slop. in the mainshaft holes

If you're worried about breaking dots due to metal on metal contact of the slide and frame, don't take out the supplied shock buff as for the serrations being removed that was a esthetics move as much as anything. the serrations on a Shadow 2 that is milled for an optic and uses the factory or similar plates, looks weird as the plate overhangs the serrations, as do the optics, they wanted the optic and slide to match up. If you made the slide wider, to allow for serrations that were proud of the optic and plate, it would be wider than the frame, again, not something they wanted.

@Thetimb nice!

@jlficken smoking deal on that TRG! What kind of glass you put on it? scope mount? did it come with the Sajo bipod? And lastly, what color (cuz the green is the best one, I only have a black one)

@Steyrarms the facebook community isn't an official page, Misty and Tom are just there for the hell of it.

interesting, I think I still have that part on mine. Gonna check

@Thetimb were you meaning you had sideways primers trying to go down the ramp? and the new bowl fixed that? or just jamming up at the wiper (I get that with the older bowl design if I overfill it). I used to get sideways primers in the disk, when running above 2500/hr. now I don't get them there at all

yup, watching that video it looks like the clunk is happening as the interior guide rod (the one inside the core) is leaving it's bushing. it will be a bit of a PITA to sort out, but the good folks at Mk7 will tell you how to adjust it so that that clunk goes away.

Red and Tacky everywhere that needs grease.

@MikeyScuba I ordered mine from Amazon USA got 4 for the same price, but if yours fits better I'll probably just order a couple from Amazon CA

wow I can't imagine what that clunking sound is at all. It doesn't sound like the clunk I once had that disappeared when I tore it down and put it back together (I think that the base plate can maybe twist a bit when you're moving it and that can make things go clunk).

@MikeyScuba what syringe did you order? I got 3 off Amazon but they won't reach through the core to get to the crank grease point unless I remove the grease zerk from the swage cam. I have a gen 1 core without the oval access hole in it, mine is just round and lines up directly to the pin that needs greasing. The newer cores have an oval hole and allows the syringe easier access

the new bowls they've moved that wiper to after the first cutout to cure the issue of primers bunching up at the wiper. There is a new piece to replace the black finger that primers go sideways under, in both aluminum and plastic, works great for me, no more sideways primers at all.

i'd consider taking off the top plate and wiping down the main ram, lubing, cleaning the bushing and reinstalling the top plate

if you don't want to shell out for the Mk7 get the DAA one from Imortobot with the conversion cable to work with the Mk7

I believe both the TS and CM are getting redesigned, I'd expect more commonality with the Shadow 2 (with the large frame mags though) than the DWX, CZUSA is doing the DWX, not CZUB

that sounds like something mechanical is messing with the upstroke. I have not ever seen firmware vanish either, don't know how that could happen

using index marks on the big shellplate nut is a great way to know if it's walking loose. I had to tighten up mine the other day when I had it running at 3000 RPH. first time I've had it come loose while loading.

I don't even do one pass loading for 9mm on my Revo.