Brazos Custom

The Railway plate bolts on to the bottom of the slide ride. Railway plate is here: Railway plate but they are expensive you might want to try to find someone who has one laying around they are not using.

You need some play so that the barrel can lock up without "springing". If there is no play when the barrel is locked up then you are ok.

If it is 9x23 are you using 9x23 brass (tapered) or supercomp (not tapered)?

There is no way you can take off material where it needs to come off with sandpaper by hand. You just took off too much in some areas. Shooting the gun would have broken it in much better. The tight areas will get more wear than the loose ones. Don't do that when you get your Brazos.

If it is off by just a little you can peen it and it will work fine. Info here Safety fitting towards the bottom of the article.

The pictures clearly show primer flow caused by high pressure from your load. The shavings in your firing pin hole are a result of small pieces of the primer (flow around the edges) being shaved off by the firing pin hole. Don't change firing pins change loads. The long firing pin does nothing about high pressure it just covers up some of the problems from it. Flattened primers are not a reliable method of gauging pressure - I have talked to those that test loads for pressure and they tell me that if you start to see what most people call pressure signs you are already up around 60,000 p.s.i.

I use a #39 for 5-40 scopemount holes and it works well.

Big Mouth - 1.6 oz Ice 1.6 oz STI SS - 3.2 oz

There is a round section of the guide rod at the back of the head that fits into a relieved section of the frame so that the outer section of the head (flanged area) on the guide rod takes the abuse. The diameter of the relieved section on the STI frames is a few thousandths less than most other manufacturers. As a result the larger diameter head section trying to go into a smaller than normal hole ends up peening the frame. STI guide rods are a little smaller in this area to match the frame and should be ok. For other manufacturers you will have to check and see if the flange on the guide rod fits flat on the frame. If it does not it needs to be turned down about 0.005 inch until the guide rod seats properly. If you are using an STI guide rod you can test it to be sure but it should be ok.

From EGW's website: Weld up and machine fit slide to frame $150.00 A little known service that STI offers for frames thast are damaged is to make you a new frame with the same serial number and decommision your other frame (in effect a repair). I can't remember the exact cost but it is substantially less than a new frame and you don't have to do new paperwork because it is a repair and not a new frame.

Send the frame and slide to EGW to have it welded. They will do an excellent job and the charge is very reasonable. When you squeeze the slide and then lap you are reducing the size of the rails on the frame each time. The slide when heated up during a good practice session swells up and the metal wants to return to its original dimensions because you have stressed it. When it does move towards it's original dimensions it is loose again and you have smaller rails to boot. You are also introducing stress into the metal that if it does not crack immediately can lead to a crack down the road.

We needed more bandwidth and switched servers. It will take a day or so for the internet to catch up with the new DNS settings. In the meantime you should be able to get there by typing in the IP address: 207.36.41.212

We had already scheduled a vacation by the time Area 4 got around to scheduling their match so we won't be there this year. Maybe next year.

You might want to be careful about modifications to the underside of the frame. ATF requires that manufacturers identify firearms with their Name, City, and State. It looks like that was removed from what I can see in the picture. I am not sure it is ok to remove this info from the frame - similar to removing the serial number. Might want to check with the ATF to be sure.

Wide dust cover frames have all begun with the CM prefix for 7 or 8 years now. They just rolled over to 5 digits so I imagine they are going to stay that way for a while. The standard frames start with an SAS prefix. Single stacks with a TS or MS prefix. Not sure of any significance to the serial numbers.

N105 is my personal favorite, 4756 is a close second. 4756 is a lot cheaper and easier to get. Several people are using 3n38 - as far as pressure it is fine - I don't like it as much because it creates a lot of flash in the loads I have tested.

Do not use 3n37 in a Pro Sx or a Pro SC 4.5. You are running way too much pressure/heat and will damage the gun. p.s. you could probably work up a load using Powder X that would run 100,000 psi and it would feel great, really flat shooting, but it is not too good an idea to run it in your gun unless you want to replace your gun after every match.

I have my Ghost holster set up in the orginal configuration. The bracket attached to the holster is above the bracket attached to the belt portion. This puts the back of my magwell (a big one) 0.5 inches above the top of my belt. Rule 5.2.7.2 prohibits the heel of the butt of the handgun to be below the top of the belt. The brackets are about 0.625 high each. If you swap them there is no way you are going to be in compliance with that rule.

This should help: Disassemble your STI

Kind of hard to call someone a sandbagger who has a higher member number than you.

Easy to confuse:

Yep, overtravel next. I would also check the back of the trigger. I can't tell for sure from the picture but it looks like you are getting contact on the back of the shoe left side below the trigger bow. If this spot is hitting something it could give you the same symptoms.

Check for a broken/cracked trigger bow at the front where it connects to the trigger shoe. You must take the trigger out completly to check it properly.

I trim the individual parts with a belt sander, put them on the gun assembled - then blend with a carbide burr on the foredom (big dremel), then with sandpaper rolls, then the buffing wheel. Then you still have to knock off the sharp edges. You can actually make it worse by taking off material in the wrong area - go slow.

http://www.1911store.com/index.asp?PageAct...&ProdID=181