davsco

is the 9mm version of this a little looser than the egw 7 round gauge? i put rounds in there that stick (because of the bullet profile) but they plunk and work just fine in my actual guns (2011 and pcc). to be clear, after sizing the casings themselves fit in the egw no problem. it does seem they don't strictly case gauge as they do make a .40xl which they presumably wouldn't have to make if they were just measuring the actual casing and not the loaded round incl bullet?

$224 primers, $13 tax, $20 hazmat, $15 coupon code, $242 shipped ("free," edge shipping)

yeah but with the compensator, just wondering if there was some secret sauce... i did load up some test loads using the 3n38 that was rec'd for full open (comp'd) guns, obviously with less powder.

way back when i bought this gun STI said it was made for Winchester White Box 115g which is what I've been using. now that i'm starting to reload, l'd appreciate any recipes y'all might have. I have vv 3n38, hs-6, e3, titegroup, n320 but open to buying something else if it works better. also i have Zero 115 and Prec Delta 115 as well as hornady and prec delta 124, but again open to something else if it's better. this will be primarily for falling steel matches. thanks!

glocks are VERY easy to take all the way down, and put back together. helped my BIL take down sig 320x5 and legion and man was that complicated.

ok, giving the timney a try in my zev oz9 lower and zi armory slide. have tried a handful of aftermarket triggers in this and they all suck (lotsa takeup and springy), hopefully this will be a lot better. i have an apex trigger in a gen 4 glock with zi slide and it's pretty nice, low takeup and crisp break, but can't duplicate this in the zev.

just fyi if you're doing this to get a better grip angle and/or stippling, brownells (and perhaps others) sell "80%" fully finished & serialized frames. actually cheaper than the true 80%s.

i thought i read somewhere that dawson had a mag catch that prevented over-insertion of mags but not sure.

max oal is just short of where you can't spin the round in the chamber because it's touching the lands?

i did, thanks! i'm giving that dillon 600 bench-mounted swager i try.

ok i did see those 'rings.' are the dillon 600 and rcbs bench mounted swage tools the way to go or are there better options (and what makes them better)? thanks

i was referring to the dillon 600, which is a bench-mounted tool that looks pretty similar to the rcbs swage tool you're referencing. i guess it doesn't really matter if it works, but just curious - are these punching into the primer pocket, or more like drilling into the primer pocket, or something else? thanks for everyone's help!

ok i still don't know what 'swaging' is, but i saw a dillon 600 tool that apparently does that. do i still use the pocket uniformer on the outside or does the swager tool do both?

new to reloading. having pretty much zero issues loading handgun. used brass, tumble it, then straight to redding turret press or dillon 750 to size and deprime and punch in a new small pistol primer etc. never mess with the primer pocket and no issues seating new primers. same process with .223. used brass, tumble, resize and deprime. i do have a small primer pocket reamer that i spin in the primer pocket (don't do this step for handgun brass and have had no seating issues). still it seems like 10% of the time, the new small rifle primers don't seat properly if at all. what am i not doing, or doing wrong? thanks!

done a bunch with a hardwood dowel and a hammer. i don't hesitate buying cool tools but for this it isn't needed.

so what is the benefit(s) to longer ammo in .40 in 2011's? does it feed better in the mag, does it go from mag to chamber better, is there something ballistics-wise going on with more room in the case for air or powder, and/or something else? thanks! reason i'm asking is i have an edge that has run perfect with "normal" 1.125 atlanta arms ammo. for a new gun i'm having built they say 1.200, which is even longer than atlanta long at 1.175. just trying to understand what makes the 1.200 better than 1.175 or 1.125 when the 1.125 has been perfect.

brownells had pmc bronze .223 the other day for $900/1000 which is outrageous. but at least it lasted a full 24 hours and didn't sell out in seconds.

new here - lube even with carbide dies? or are you talking about lubing inside the rim before seating a bullet? or something else...

ok, why? while mine in .40 seems to work perfectly, they do seem tight for 9 and 39 super as those rounds plunk fine in the actual barrels. so that's my guess why.

old post, but yeah with a grey guns spring kit, it's by far the best trigger pull on a striker fired gun i've felt. very little takeup and a short, light crisp break.

i ordered 2k of 38 super brass from them on 1/21 and had it in hand within a week +/- a day or two.

forum member braxton1 was awesome enough to send me a few!!!

thanks, i'll try that

as noted earlier, i have the zev oz9 lower and then an aftermarket slide upper. i have tried johnny glock and apex triggers and with both it's a long mushy takeup (i don't shoot the reset). they actually worked pretty good on an 80% g17 lower so surprised at the mushyness. any ideas as to a trigger or ancillary components i should try?

zzt, thanks and will do. i did some test loads with 3n38 but haven't shot them yet.