davsco

forgetting about idpa, what are recommendations for/against bull bbl vs bushing?

curious on why folks don't want the slide to lock back after the last shot?

you need a glock shotgun

details please, is this like a 3 gun or uspsa match (run n gun)? targets stationary and/or moving? shooting over/under/thru barriers? one big stage or multiple stages? caliber restrictions or recommendations?

no idea what and how much they have and their prices, but peacemaker is selling ammo, might be easier than schlepping it there. also, if someone made it home last year with an extra sling from last year's match, kindly drop it off at the check in office at this year's match, thanks.

i started uspsa and idpa and 3gun with a g34 (gen 3). couple of years ago i got a g17 (gen 4). i have been using the g17 since. i definitely prefer the grippiness of the gen 4 stippling. but the 17 is also a little shorter so seems to come out of the hoster and point quicker.

i have the safariland 013. works just fine with my steelmaster. i don't have anything else to compare it against though.

all i can say is when i shoot my open gun (2011), along with everyone else shooting their 2011 limited or open guns, it's an obsession to keep the mags clean, prescreen all the ammo and expect the occasional jam, religiously clean the gun after each match.. when shooting glock, all the focus is on shooting, not on clean or dirty mags, what ammo you're feeding it, malfunction drills, etc. and if it goes a few matches without getting cleaned, so what. but clearly glocks don't come close to 2011 triggers.

when i started uspsa, etc a few years ago, i kept an eagle eye on the ejected round. in doing so, i took my attention off my gun and seeing that the chamber was indeed empty. RO said was it really worth it to pick up a now dirty round, taking the chance the gun wasn't totally clear. i agreed and now leave the rounds in the dirt, and focus on ensuring the gun is safe.

depends on what guns you choose to use on each stage, lots of options. i am not using the shottie whenever possible (i load slower than a turtle and don't shoot it much faster) and have the following (rounded up) round count (assuming paper hit with 2 shots): pistol 150 shotgun 50 slug 10 rifle 100 and i will probably bring 2x that, for the 'occasional' miss. also it sounds like there are some side stages to shoot which of course require more ammo. also if you go back a few pages i think someone else calc'd as well

i have dpms lr-308 24" barrel that does shoot sub moa out to 600 yds (3 shot groups). added geisselle 2 stage trigger (did not shoot sub moa before that) and has nightforce 5.5-22x56 scope. use fed gm 168, haven't gotten into handloading.

just curious why bipods aren't allowed? seems everyone has one already, and given the cost of rifles, it's not a prohibitively costly accessory.

Davsco, what did that mean? Were you having POA/POI problems and needed a taller sight or was he saying factory is .215 and when buying his you need .245? Just wondering because i am going to be getting a set in the future and trying to make sure I get the right ones. Thanks. i had bought the 'standard' pair of front and rear sights which had worked on other glocks i have. but i guess in these case i needed the taller front sight.

email snippet below directly from scott warren when i was getting warren/sevigny sights for my g34: For most of the 34s, our .245 tall front works fine. Sounds like you might have a .215 tall front on your pistol.

ok i'm an idiot also so disregard above. the removable "piece" they must have been referring to is the 2" long thin/flat piece of plastic that sits below the trigger guard assembly. still doesn't seem like the most secure fit but i'm still playing with the retention adjustments. i realize this is all personal preference, but what is your thought re whether the gun is perpendicular to your side or perhaps canted in, and whether the gun is vertical up and down or tilted forward or backward. also, where typically worn on holster, at the 90% mark from belly button or forward or back from there? i'm new to all this so just some super basic questions... thanks again, david

here's a pic, the place where i have the pencil point is what i'm talking about. this comes back too far so that the space between this and the spring loaded trigger guard catches isn't deep enough for the thickness of the front of the STI's trigger guard. i don't see anything small that can be removed. could/should i just file this down a little? thanks again.

ok help please needed with safariland 013 and my sti steel master (2011 frame). like the very first post, i see nothing in the way of an insert that is removable. there appear to be two pieces of plastic riveted together that are about 4" long. there isn't enough space in front of the left and right springed retainers for the front of my trigger guard to fit (from left to right it fits, just not from front to back). i'm thinking about 1/8" maybe needs to be removed, but there is definitely no small piece of plastic that (i can tell) can simply be removed. in the absence of miraculously finding this removable insert, thinking i could just file down the piece on the holster that the front of my sti's trigger guard rests against? help, suggestions, etc appreciated!!