bountyhunter

IMHO, Kimber does not offer any quality advantage over any of the other mass produced guns from SA, Colt or the rest. Better options: https://dawsonprecision.com/sti-1911-guardian/ https://dawsonprecision.com/sti-duty-one-45-acp-4/ They do cost more than mass made guns but IMHO, they are worth it.

Man I lived one year on cape Cod and it snowed for about seven months. One day we had to climb out a window and dig out the front side of the house because it was covered in snow. 50F was summer weather back then.

Freezing to DEATH in "sunny" California. Was 36 degrees last night when I went to bed, lows in the 20's. At 2PM today, it's all the way up to 44.

Never seen one either. Problem is they only tool up and make aftermarket parts for the highest volume brands or else they won't sell enough to make any money.

We got a day without rain.

I have found that the Wolf reduced power mainsprings will light just about anything as long as the strain screw is not shortened or worn off at the tip.

I had a .40 top built for my 9mm Trojan and it seemed to always work fine using the original ejector and slide stop that came with the 9mm gun.

Be advised, an old beat up spring will be significantly shorter than it was when new.

A young lady wit a nice voice who is rumored to have eaten a volkswagen.

I had a .40 top end built for my 9mm Trojan but only because it is illegal to buy a new one here in california. It costs more to build one than buy one.

Her songs do sound alike: you shouldn't have left me, look what you're missing now, ha-ha-ha-ha.....

+1 After a while, you end up with a bag full of various spring types. I use the stock spring and put a bend in it as needed to get the spring force I want. As for rebound springs: you can buy bags full of all different weights and then end up trying to figure out which is what when you take one out.... or you can do what I do: I just use the standard spring and snip it off as short as I need to reduce the spring force. That way all I have to do is measure the length and I know how strong it is. I like to keep things simple.

The wolff reduced power springs will light just about everything (assuming a stock strain screw that nobody has ground on and has not worn over time). HOWEVER: I would never recommend reduced power springs on any life defense gun. A really good job of slicking the internals will make it FEEL much lighter without changing springs. FYI, in the unfortunate event you ever have to fire in defense of your life, that stock 12# pull will feel like about four ounces......

They put about $15k on one of my wife's cards and it included airline tickets to japan and a vacation hotel and a bunch of other cool stuff.

Down here they keep hiding scan "readers" inside the card scanners at grocery stores. When you swipe the card, it reads it and transmits the data to a crook. I was watching a news story about it a while back and they showed the exact Lucky's store I shop at.....

That's normal for a stock SW revo. Adding a spring kit usually gets it down to the 9# ballpark.

Truer words were never spoken. That's why after a number of years, I just "tuned" the mainspring by making a mandrel bend using a home made jig. I set the spring force about 20% more than is needed to fire the primers and then "tune back" using the strain screw until I get reliable ignition at the lowest DA pull weight (usually about 1/4 turn out from bottomed). Yes, you must use blue Loctite if you run the strain screw not fully seated. Once your mainspring is dialed in, you reduce the rebound spring to "match" and you're done. A lot of people make tons of money selling magic spring kits but at the end of the day: it's just a flat piece of metal. You can bend it and if you get it wrong, you can bend it back.

Yes. I have posted numerous times my experience with C+S oversized pins. Mine had to be shaved on the sides to get them to work or they would bind in the channel. I also had to remove material from the cut area to get them to fully retract. The ones I got were obviously cast or MIM (you could see the mold flash) and just junk IMO. I installed three of them in my SW 66 comp guns and did tests where I reduced the mainspring force to where I got light strikes and compared to good stock pins. The extended pins did NOT improve striking energy compared to a good stock pin. However, they are prone to breakage (two of mine broke in very short time) and I threw away the third. I have never seen any convincing information that making the FP longer improves strike energy compared to a good stock pin. SW did have some defective (short) pins but the proper ones which are about .492" length (from memory) strike very well. IMHO, longer pins are a waste of money. Just get the proper stock pin.

To their credit, the site does post the facts about: YMMV.

Don't push it.

No question it can be fixed it's just a question of cost. SW revolvers break those pins all the time and they can fix them. I think it might have to be drilled out and welded (?) which might leave a visible spot on the outside but it definitely can be fixed.

Kind of. before I shortened the ramp it was somewhat of a "smiley" i guess. Now it hits flatter... so not so much. Maybe you can recut the feed ramp to shorten it a bit as shown in the referenced thread?

I thought is was some kind of hydraulic press flange fit type of insertion?

No problem.

Here is my recommendation: don't buy any new SW revolver unless you can give it a DETAILED bench review before buying. I would NEVER special order (pre pay) a gun because then you are stuck with it. What would be a detailed bench review? What should I look for? I'm capable of using calipers, but not proficient, if I need to. Having said all that, if I want a revolver that isn't a Smith and Wesson what else is out there that's good? Ruger has good reputation and resale values, Taurus are junk based on low used gun prices. Dan Wesson used to be highly thought of.