bountyhunter

Dry firing helps (at least for me) because it lays down hard wire pathways in the brain so that under stress, you will be following them. You need to develop a "reset" mode for your brain you can hit while firing to stabilize it if you are forcing or rushing the shots. On some of my guns I put some padding on the backstrap to reduce kick and that helps a little.

I tend to agree. when I first started shooting and would get an unexpected FTF (gun run dry, dead primer etc) the muzzle would move down after the trigger press and the peanut gallery would all go "oooh big flinch". now at that point it may have been, What I've now noticed is even M and GM level shooters when they unexpectedly pull the trigger on an empty chamber there is fairly significant movement of the gun. It's either their response to recoil that didn't come, or they are expecting the shot to have left, they have observed sight picture/dot was good at the time they pulled the trigger and are already starting to transition to the next target. The thing is as you said the difference between a pre-trigger jerk and a post trigger 'reaction' is probably measured in hundredths of a second and impossible to judge with the naked eye. it's a tough one. That's because a calibrated "after fire reaction" moves the muzzle back down faster than just letting it flip without resistance. The only times it's a problem is if it happens BEFORE firing.

Be very proud, that is a great accomplishment. My brother has worked his life in drug rehab and the drug users all say that kicking nicotine is harder than kicking heroin.

I have a 226 bought in .40 that I shoot 9mm from using a 40-9 conversion barrel. AFAIK, you can go from .40 to 9mm (changing barrel and mags only) but not the other way around.

That's the worst thing about tinnitus. You can't believe how much you will miss peace and quiet when you never have it again.

Really good point. My wife has the infuriating habit of walking away from me out of a room and then she will mumble somthing just loud enough that she can hear it..... and then she wonders why I can't? I am 62 so I have some hearing loss as well as horrible tinnitus, but they did the hearing tests on me even using the "distorted" sound on words and I can hear 100% on the tests. Sometimes women just mumble. I don't know why, but they do.

At the risk of heresy: I might try trimming a 1911 shok buff to fit and see if that stops the hammering from happening. The other possibility would be one of those dual spring recoil assemblies if they make one to fit that gun. I'd be interested to know if that came from Para because it looks nothing like my 16-40....

It should assuming the sear nose has come into the hammer hooks far enough to catch it with enough sear spring force to keep it from being knocked out of the way. Definitely want to make sure sear spring is installed correctly and has adequate tension. If memory serves me I thought the first thing to suspect on 1911/2011 multiple fire events was a problem with the disconnector (?)

Some time back, Para extractors were not MIM, they were CAST which is even worse as far as strength and density goes. I was pretty shocked they put such a cheap part into my 1640 LDA which was about a $1200 gun.

The one trick that can get close to that is the Merritt sighter device which is a peep hole attachment for your glasses. It does sharpen up both the sight image and target image. Not perfect, but gets it a lot closer to focus. http://www.gunblast.com/MeritOptical.htm

Been there, lived that. The "solution" is to have different scrips in each lense. Distance lense for the left eye and sight distance lense for the right eye.

That group looks pretty good for a newbie at 15 - 20 yards. Keep practicing and focus on tracking the sights and the group will tighten up.

Trojan I change my answer to a time machine and an old Trojan......

That's the problem. Glocks work OK with stock parts but have a million ways to go wrong with aftermarket or modified parts. Without examining, hard to know. Could just be a spring imbalance keeping the trigger bar from resettting. Can you duplicate it hand cycling snap caps?

I still remember the day some years back when I was riding my Kaw in the right lane of the expressway and a Harley with straight pipes passed me on the left sending sound level into my left ear above threshold of pain. The constant tinnitus I now enjoy is loudest on that side.......

Can't go wrong with a model 66 with three or four inch barrel.

I can almost guarantee you are closing your eyes at trigger break and not watching the sights at fire. It's a natural instinct to protect your eyes. You should be able to see the muzzle flash "backlight" the sight picture which will tell you exactly where the shot will go. I suspect if you focus 100% on tracking the sight image you will be able to see the sights move when you fire which is why the shots are inconsistent. Low left hits are almost always caused by yanking the trigger. Guess how I know.

I am using a Fusion slide stop and magwell and was surprised at how good the quality is for the price.

When I sent my newest 929 back to S&W to have the barrel replaced it went in with one of the hollow firing pins and came back with a solid one. Either they are changing their mind about the hollow pin or they put it back together with what ever was handy. The solid pin it came back with was a Ti pin that was .499" in length. Interesting. I thought the standard pin was .495" in length. I have seen them in both steel and titanium, I used to sort them with a magnet. Maybe SW is joining the "extended" pin club....... what's funny is the first time I bought a gun (SW66) many years back, with a frame mounted firing pin, the very first thing I did was measure how far it came through the breech plate when all the way forward and compare that to my other revos with the hammer mounted FP's. I used feeler gauges to eyeball it and to my eye, the .495 pin came forward exactly as far as the hammer mounted FP did..... which made sense to me. I know some bad "shorty" pins got out later that were .492" or less and caused problems in some guns.

If SW made the FP hollow to reduce mass then going to a solid pin will likely REDUCE strike energy as lightened FP's/strikers are used to improve strike with reduced power springs. If SW changed the pin on that model they may have actually had a reason (?) Always wonder why people automatically replace stock parts which have not failed.

Another data point: this guy claims to have a reliable 3.25# DA trigger on a K-38. http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/465572-3-26-pound-double-action-uber-trigger-job-can-u-explain.html

True dat. In addition to actually weighing them, I was messing around measuring relative inertias of S&W hammers; and while the Apex hammer has, as you'd expect, lower inertia than a stock hammer, a chopped Carmoney hammer is lower. I'd have to check my notes, but if low inertia alone is the criteria, a chopped Carmoney hammer kicks the Apex's butt, IIRC. I was the Carroll Shelby of the custom revolver world. :-) That's big shoes to fill. Somewhere Carrol is wishing he could be out driving that new GT 350R that just kicked the Z-28 and ZO-6's butts......

Then what is the min for a comp gun with minimum springs, an Apex hammer and restricted to soft primer ammo? The guy posting said 3.75 was not a problem so 3 ain't that far off. Wondering if anybody had gone through it and tried to wring it out and had numbers on the minimum. I don't know. I just know I have no interest in anything under 5#, because there is no way to get under 5# without the trigger rebound becoming unacceptably soft and sluggish--at least for me. I agree that with the stock hammer 5# is the min. But the Apex hammers smack harder for the same spring energy because of reduced mass which means you can dial the mainspring down more. Reducing the mainspring would not alter the rebound feel. We can agree that to get the DA down under 5#, you must reduce both mainspring tension and rebound spring tension, right Bountyhunter? Most people who shoot the fast action sports don't want the sluggish rebound feel that becomes necessary to get under 5#, including me. Maybe for PPC or Bianchi or the other "watching the paint dry" shooting games! Yes. But what I was saying was that I got my comp model 66 guns down to 5# DA with a STOCK hammer and the RB action was just fine (for me). What I was saying was that by reducing hammer mas either by the Apex hammer or cutting down the stock hammer, you can maintain good ignition with a much lighter mainspring WITHOUT changing the RB spring lighter than what I was running in my 5# gun (which is lighter than stock). So I never considered getting it to 5# to be a great trick since I did it with a stock hammer. Of course the springs were reduced. Based on that I figured a lighter hammer should get it well below 5#. I understand some people really want a strong rebound spring, Jerry M was one of those. It never bothered me but I probably don't shoot as fast as you. I think for me the improved control given by lighter DA pull is a bigger plus.

Then what is the min for a comp gun with minimum springs, an Apex hammer and restricted to soft primer ammo? The guy posting said 3.75 was not a problem so 3 ain't that far off. Wondering if anybody had gone through it and tried to wring it out and had numbers on the minimum. I don't know. I just know I have no interest in anything under 5#, because there is no way to get under 5# without the trigger rebound becoming unacceptably soft and sluggish--at least for me. I agree that with the stock hammer 5# is the min. But the Apex hammers smack harder for the same spring energy because of reduced mass which means you can dial the mainspring down more. Reducing the mainspring would not alter the rebound feel.

Then what is the min for a comp gun with minimum springs, an Apex hammer and restricted to soft primer ammo? The guy posting said 3.75 was not a problem so 3 ain't that far off. Wondering if anybody had gone through it and tried to wring it out and had numbers on the minimum.