bountyhunter

Truth, Lies and O-Rings is a great book on the tragedy. NASA really lost their way after the Apollo program. Incidentally, the Apollo 1 disaster anniversary was also this week. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk It is sad anytime there are lives lost which easily could have been avoided. Back then I was also working as a design engineer and I distinctly recall wondering what in the world all those "passengers" were doing aboard a mission with that level of risk to life. NASA was really into making it look like it was as safe as a drive to the store but two ships lost showed that was nowhere near true. Anyway, sad we had to lose lives on those missions.

You will see large variations on revolvers for DA pull. For SA it's more consistent but there is still some change depending on how fast you pull and where the gauge engages the trigger.

I would think that a 5% change in mass would have a negligible effect, but maybe somebody has actual data? At the risk of heresy: I wonder if an adjustable sight could be molded from some kind of plastic? It really doesn't have any serious stress on it. That would be much easier and cheaper to make.

Any private sale is an "as is" sale unless you can get the seller to give you some kind of warranty.

The reviews I have read on their service are pretty mixed. In my case, when I had warranty issues, they would not pay for shipping so it would have cost me about $100 to send the gun in and they did not quote a repair time. I ended up fixing the guns here. I did not find that to be an adequate response for a defective gun.

You can mount your optic to any smith revolver, they're all drilled and tapped under the rear sight. The trr8 still seem to be fine. I'm not sure any of us have actually seen a worn out scandium gun. And besides, wouldn't smith warranty it if you did wear it out? The S&W warranty doesn't always work the way most think that it does. My friend wore out a TR 325 and S&W said that the wear was normal and not a defect. What happened to their lifetime warranty?

It's only $20.... but it's also fraud. Bought a new Bosch battery and it had the $20 rebate. Submitted everything and waited and just got the reply: rebate denied because no rebate is offered on that product. Except you can go to their site and see the same rebate offered on exactly the same bttery still today. Of course, Pep Boys (like all companies) farms out the rebate function so they are not in control and the local stores play "We know nothing!" like Sargeant Shultz used to. And if you check internet, a lot of people report rebate ripoffs from the pep boys. Guess I'll just submit a complaint to the consumer fraud division of the state's AG and write it off.

+1 Looks like a problem with barrel lug fit or timing.

There is an old thread of mine about the train wreck that was my brand new PC 627. If only it was just a bad trigger, I would have been the luckiest guy on the planet. I got yelled at and ticked off some SW lovers here so I generally don't chime in on the topic anymore. But that thread might still be some where. I never bought another new SW revo.

I would try a standard extractor (assuming the extractor tunnel hasn't been butchered). Anyway, you should be able to get it to hold tension even if you have to shave metal off the knuckle at the end so it can move farther over. For: That's not the crtitical dimension, it has to be able to hold tension between the edge of the rim and the edge of the breech face cutout.

That's funny. Yes, you adjust the strain screw tension to the desired hammer weight. I dont measure hammer tension, some do the pencil test , or measure the weight - ( 36-40 oz rings a bell? ) I personally just adjust the strain screw until it lights everything off, and then give it an extra little bit of turn and lock tite. Running the strain screw a little out is frowned upon at this forum...... which is to say I basically do the same thing. I adjust main spring force (bend it) until it just lights everything well on DA pulls with the strain screw 1/4T out from bottomed, and I loctite it there. I keep that extra 1/4 available in case I hit some hard primers at a shoot and need a little extra pop.

If it's barrel to cylinder gap, .007 - .008" is definitely in spec and better than a lot of new SW's revos. I wouldn't worry about it.

Barrel link OK?

Using a snap cap is better, that's what I typically do.

This is for 1911? It's that one but don't overdo it as it's hard on the barrel lugs and trigger group. And yes, the stronger the recoil spring, the harder and faster the slide hits.

The things I recommend checking are posted in this thread.

Talking abut the Seahawks. I was all set to have a happy day watching the Seahawks choke their game when the short field goal that would have driven the stake through their heart sailed wide left. But on the upside, I can look forward to them losing an even bigger game next. With any luck they'll lose the super bowl on the last play again......

I always laugh about turn signals because the one set of vehicles I have never in my life use a turn signal is cop cars. Then they write people up for not using them....... It is true most California drivers don't use them but it is out of self defense. If you tip your hand that you are trying to change lanes, the other rivers will speed up to block you.

I used to use a popsicle stick to wrangle the thing over while gently prying in the back slot with a small screwdriver .

Great for you. The secret is to realize that diet is just a four letter word and doomed to fail, but adjusting life parameters can have a huge effect.

From the ad: That's why I just bend the stock spring until I gerte exactly what I need. Otherwise you end up with a bagfull of various spring weights. These are probably OK, chances are they will work... if not, you can always bend them. There are many weight rebound springs available, simpler just to buy stock ones and cut the length. That way you know exactly what weight they are by measuring the length and you don't have to keep five different kinds around.

Guaranteed possible. I did the exact same thing when I had a .40 top end built to go on my 9mm Trojan. I had it done by a gunsmith and it ended up costing about 75% of what a new gun would cost. I had to do it tht way because the guns are no longer legal to purchase here in kali. For you, buying a second used gun probably makes more sense (unless you can do the work yourself). YMMV On mine, had to go with complete upper (slide/barrel assembly) but bottom end remains the same. Didn't need to change ejector or slide stop between calibers.

A red dot is a good investment. I have a bunch of them. Really improves accuracy.

duplicate

IMHO, Kimber does not offer any quality advantage over any of the other mass produced guns from SA, Colt or the rest.Better options: https://dawsonprecision.com/sti-1911-guardian/ https://dawsonprecision.com/sti-duty-one-45-acp-4/ They do cost more than mass made guns but IMHO, they are worth it. The first one is officers grip length And the second is 3in barrel. It is exactly what I ran into during the search. Thanks for trying The second example, which is the Duty One 4.0, comes in 4.1" bull barrel (see attached figure). Don't know if grip matches.