BigGabe

Pretty much sounds right, but I would think if it could be customized so that no rules were broken and falls within the class measurements it would be legal.

Just from a monetary perspective I'd go with the Browning. Being a 1955 vintage gun it was made in Belgium and commands a higher price verses the the pump. With that being said both will work for skeet or trap. You didn't say what the chokes were but I doubt if they have choke tubes. So go with the one you like the best.

People are always looking for an edge. It's human nature. I've seen it in not only in IDPA but USPSA, Steel, Trap, Skeet, Sporting Clays, Fitasc and so on and so forth on down the line.

I've got a Commander sized 1911 I'd like to use. I'm pretty sure I can shorten and recrown the barrel to meet the 4.1" the rules specify, if allowed. Might have to trim the ambi safety and check the width of the grips to make the 1 3/8" width, I think the only problem would be making weight with the magazines. Of course a plastic mainspring housing would save allot of weight over a stock steel. Then again it all might be more trouble then it's worth. I don't know, we'll see. Just might have to use a shadow in 9mm I have.

If the pictures justify the caliber of work I'd say he would be hard to beat. Work looks top notch.

Some people are always looking for that extra point or target. Clay target shooters love to change things to gain an extra target. Just human nature I guess. No need to change out a good barrel.

As said earlier, Caspian sells fitted slide frame kits. Fusion Firearms sells 1911 kits about any way you want them. I've used Caspian and Fusion and STI kits, all are a good foundation for a build. I got the fitted frame and slide them put them together with the parts I wanted to use. 9mm STI, 40 Fusion Commander and a Caspian 10mm.

I'd call the builder. It looks like the sides of the dovetail are cut at the wrong angle if the sight hasn't been touched from looking at your pictures. Tightening the set screw will hold it in place most likely. Since it raises the sight base up into the dovetail I can't really see how it could pivot with the cuts on the base pushed up and into the dovetail cut on the slide, but I would do what you did and see what the builder has to say.

Easy to see if it's hanging on the disconnector . Look down through the ejection port to see if the bottom of the breech face is stopping when it gets to the disconnector as you let the slide move forward. My slide will override the disconnector with the trigger held back but your spring pressure my be more then mine or you my need to polish the disconnector some.

The center leg not only controls take up pressure to some extent but also has to do with the disconnector.

A good 1911 extractor, polish, do a little tuning and you should be good to go.

For a limited gun an Edge is just hard to beat. Have had several over the last few years.

If you can zero the gun I wouldn't about the sights. As far as primer strike index the case in the chamber either by marking the back of the case with a marker or using the headstamp. Shoot it and check the primer in relation to how you had the case oriented in the chamber. Most primer strikes if not centered are usually a little high or low depending on how the barrel is fitted. No big deal as long as the gun goes bang.

Me and several friends used to use the Wilson mags (all were 9mm 10 rounders) and found when loaded to capacity they were very hard to seat on a closed slide. Went to the Dawson 10 rounders and problem solved. The problem was overcoming the pressure of the top round hitting the bottom of the barrel. The top round on the Wilson mags was very hard to push down making it hard to seat while the Dawson mags were easier. I think they were just a hair longer. You didn't say what caliber, so I can only speak for the 9mm not the 45.

Take the grip off the frame. Take out the magazine release, the factory trigger should slide out the back. Usually the SVI trigger insert is too wide and tall to be a slip in fit I've had the bow fit pretty good from the get go.. I will take a file and remove material from the cut out where the trigger itself comes through. Usually top, bottom, and sides. Check to see if the trigger will go through the opening without the insert in it. Go slow and take off a little at a time.

I've been running the Dawson 10 rounders with no problem. Haven't noticed the slide running slow either in recoil or going into battery with a full mag. Chris I didn't see where you said if the slide is slow in recoil, chambering a round or both. I'd try a heavier load or a different weight slide spring. I shoot reloads and while they are not real fast they work the slide well enough to toss the empty cases 3 to 4 yards whether the mag has 10 rounds or 2 in it. The Dawson mags are hard to unload when full, usually the round wants to nose dive into the front of the mag body. A little trick you might try that works for me is to bump the mag on it's base as you press forward on the back of the case. Shell usually pops out with no problem. Only have to do it for the first 3 or 4 rounds, the rest will come out pretty easy. Hope this helps.

I've had a Spartan in 9mm and it ran very well with my reloads. Have a 9mm Trojan now and it runs great also. A friend has a Range Officer and while I've never shot it as far as I know he's had no problems with it either. I would probably buy the RO for the $700. It's a quality gun with a good rep. Plus this way you can buy the 4 or 5 mags you'll need if you shoot any of the games. 5 Dawsen or Trip 10 rounders will run another $150 to $200, then ammo if you don't reload. Just my 2 cents worth.

I've had both and I'd go with the STI. I feel the STI is the better gun for about the same amount of money. I ran the Dawson 10 round mags and didn't have a problem.

I'd have someone that knows what they are doing check the sear angle and also the hammer full cock notch for wear. Also don't drop the slide on an empty chamber. That will expedite the problem.

I've got a Trojan in 9mm. Use it for Steel and IDPA. Great gun for those sports. If you were only going to get one gun though, I'd probably go with the 40. Can be used for all three. If you don't reload the 9 would be cheaper to shoot. If you're accurate with it the 9 shouldn't hurt you too bad in USPSA and you get the added benefit of shooting a gun with less recoil.

I tend to agree with you Jax.

When were the knives promised? If it's I'll call you when they're done or I'm 3 years behind no problem. If you were promised them in a year and it's been way over 2 he's dragging his feet. If a custom maker gives a completion date and has been doing the work long enough it shouldn't be that hard to hit the mark. Especially if they give their self a month window to complete it in to compensate for unforeseen things happening. I don't have a problem with the wait time, be it 2 months or 2 years. The problem I have is when a custom maker tells you 2 months then takes 2 years to get it done.

I bought an EGW. So far no problem in my 2011. Don't have the plug just the 2 piece rod.

Steve I see where you are coming from, but I feel if you pay 100% up front you ought to be put in front of the shop builds. I mean if I fork over $3500 for a pistol being within a few weeks of delivery time ought to be a gimme. And it's supposedly coming unfinished to be sent back after the owner tests it out to make sure it's working to his satisfaction.

Hope this is in the right forum, didn't think it belonged in the 1911, 2011 forum, so here goes. I have a good friend that has ordered a custom 2011 from a well known builder. I don't have a dog in this fight but would like some input from some of the members that have ordered custom builds in case I want to. When he ordered the pistol he was told there would be a 3 to 4 month wait. That was ok so he ordered the gun and paid for it up front in full. Thinking like I would that it would expedite matters, but it's now been a full 6 months since it was ordered and paid for and no gun. In my friends talking to him he seems to have excuse after excuse on why it's taking so long. Hard to find good help, parts are hard to get ect, ect. He has been able to turn out a few shop guns to sell . Talks about it on his Facebook page as well as building some competition shotguns. I don't know, and could be wrong but if I paid for a gun up front I would kinda want to be put before the shop guns being built that have no customers waiting, especially since the due date was missed by 2 to 3 months. This is his 2nd custom and the first one was spot on as far as wait time. Does this happen more then not and if this happened to you what would you do. Thanks. Gabe